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Angus
07-28-2009, 06:35 PM
Hello all,

It has been a while since I have really had the chance to get back to the site. Too many things going on. But, I want to let you all know that the NewBee Guide to Making Mead has been updated and improved. Please go and take a look, even if you have read it before. There are a lot of additional features including a guide on using the calculator.

If you think of something that is missing, let me know. Likewise if you see a mistake. I hope it covers what is needed to start making Mead, but am open to suggestions.

Angus

akueck
07-29-2009, 12:02 AM
Looks great! Nice job.

One thing: the autosiphon now comes in 1 gallon jug size, e.g. here (http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/ProdByID.aspx?ProdID=7643).

Also, the guide mentions stopper sizes for various containers. I use #7 for my 5 & 6.5 gallon glass carboys and #7.5 for 1 gallon glass juice containers (Santa Cruz organic apple juice). Could just say "check first before you buy" or recommend one of those "universal" stoppers.

And this has bugged me for years--Tej is made with gesho, which is not hops. Similar in use, but definitely a different plant. Gesho can be bought in Ethiopian markets, traditionally both the leaves and bark are used. (Brundo in Oakland sells bark and powdered leaves.)

wildoates
07-29-2009, 12:40 AM
Here's a mistake:


In many cases, seeds are both a flavor detriment, and a pain when racking. If you can go seedless, do so. Some seeds are used to add some additional flavor or astringency to the Mead, such as cherry pits, but it is easier to add them later s needed than to deal with them in your fermenter. on the ingredient page.

Medsen Fey
07-29-2009, 10:28 AM
Angus it is great to hear that the update is done, but, uhh.., I can't load it. When I select the NewBee Guide, I get the menu column on the left side of the page, but the page itself is blank. Is it just me?

Bryon
07-29-2009, 11:52 AM
yep. same thing when I just tried to load it.

Angus
07-29-2009, 01:05 PM
That is wierd. I just tried to load it, and the same thing happened to me. The guide is gone!

I will IM Vicky to see what's up.

Angus

Gardenfish
07-29-2009, 01:54 PM
It was there with June updates yesterday around 4pm.

Gardenfish

wayneb
07-29-2009, 03:27 PM
This looks like a generic problem with the main Gotmead site. All the large center frames are blank on all the main site pages.

Vicky/Pete - hope that helps.

wildoates
07-29-2009, 03:59 PM
It was obviously there last night when I posted, as well.

Medsen Fey
07-30-2009, 09:11 AM
Hey, it's working again! Thanks folks.

capoeirista13
07-30-2009, 09:27 AM
Noice, I tried checking it out yesterday but it was down, going to check it out now then.

capoeirista13
07-30-2009, 10:20 PM
Wow, this new guide is...great!

EnsNentill
07-31-2009, 04:08 AM
As a newbee myself, I appreciate the guide. One area that I feel might deserve its own section is advice on variations of mead? If I want to make a Melomel, do I have to boil the fruit, or is it the same as the debate on boiling honey? Do I add fruit during primary, secondary, or both? What are the basics I should know if I want to make a sparkling mead? etc.

I know these are touched on slightly in the guide, and I could find the answers on the forums, but I think if it's possible to consolidate them into the newbee guide, it would make it easier for us.

Thanks for listening, sorry if I'm overstepping my bounds here.

wayneb
07-31-2009, 10:45 AM
EnsNentill, you are not at all overstepping bounds! We welcome constructive comments to improve the Guide, and all other aspects of the site.

Angus, I'll take this one on. I owe you that, since I didn't get a chance to contribute earlier! ;) Stay tuned for some inputs from me....

Angus
08-06-2009, 09:50 AM
Keep them coming everyone. The goal of this site is to help, so any comments are never overstepping anything.

thanks Wayne. Whatever you can do would be great.

Angus

Oskaar
08-13-2009, 04:58 PM
This looks like a generic problem with the main Gotmead site. All the large center frames are blank on all the main site pages.

Vicky/Pete - hope that helps.

The center panels are there for me, and on several different workstations I use in physically different locations.

This is more than likely a setting with your local, pop-up blocker, java, anti-mal/spy/virus/spam applications.

Boot clean, with no security applets loaded and go to the site. If the issue persists let me know.

Oskaar

wayneb
08-14-2009, 10:22 AM
The issue's come and gone, Pete. In fact I figured that you already did something about it. No changes to any of my systems here -- they just showed back up with data in 'em after a couple of days.

wjwid
08-29-2009, 10:12 AM
I just wanted to thank Angus and whoever else contributed to the update - this is a much improved resource for folks like me who are new to meadmaking, and should save a lot of basic questioning in the forums (or provide ready answers).

crowquill
08-29-2009, 04:23 PM
I agree -- many thanks to Angus and all those who have contributed. I was just reading over the guide again and it is a terrific resource.

Medsen Fey
09-06-2009, 02:05 PM
Angus, I was looking through the guide and didn't see a clear section on stabilizing and backsweetening. Does that topic warrant a section of its own given the number of questions that arise on how to do it?

epetkus
09-07-2009, 03:56 PM
First of all, THANK YOU for having this and updating it for all of us!!!!! What a tremendous resource for the Mead community!

Second, in looking at the ABV/Brix/SG charts, there is either a significant error in the table, or I don't understand how to read it!

Specific example: The table shows an SG of 1.010 equates to a Brix of 3.8. This is wrong. An SG of 1.01 = ~2.56 Brix (born out by both my Hydrometer and the formula B=261.3*(1-1/SG)).

Is the column heading wrong, or the formula, or am I missing something?

ERic

JamesP
09-07-2009, 07:15 PM
If you are fermenting to SG=1.00 like your hydrometer is calibrated to (zeros at SG=1.000), then 2.56 is probably correct.

The 3.8 assumes you are actually going lower (or has the potential to go lower to say 0.995 ), and that the extra sugars are still in solution at SG=1.000

Note, adding an amount of honey to water to get sg=1.010 will be different to fermenting from sg=1.125 down to sg=1.010 because the alcohol in the mead affects the SG

JamesP
09-07-2009, 07:15 PM
If you are fermenting to SG=1.00 like your hydrometer is calibrated to (zeros at SG=1.000), then 2.56 is probably correct.

The 3.8 assumes you are actually going lower (or has the potential to go lower to say 0.995 ), and that the extra sugars are still in solution at SG=1.000

Note, adding an amount of honey to water to get sg=1.010 will be different to fermenting from sg=1.125 down to sg=1.010 because the alcohol in the mead affects the SG

epetkus
09-08-2009, 02:31 PM
If you are fermenting to SG=1.00 like your hydrometer is calibrated to (zeros at SG=1.000), then 2.56 is probably correct.

The 3.8 assumes you are actually going lower (or has the potential to go lower to say 0.995 ), and that the extra sugars are still in solution at SG=1.000

Note, adding an amount of honey to water to get sg=1.010 will be different to fermenting from sg=1.125 down to sg=1.010 because the alcohol in the mead affects the SG

JamesP, not sure I quite understand your comment. It seems to me that the calculation of SG to Brix (or vice-versa) is independant of the method at which you arrived at your solution to be measured (sugar/honey to water or conversion of sugars to alcohol due to fermentation).

All I'm trying to point out is that there is a discrepency between this table and other resources:

http://www.fermsoft.com/gravbrix.php
http://www.brewheads.com/brixsg.php
The Brix formula at the bottom of: http://www.valleyvintner.com/Refrac_Hydro/Experiment.pdf
The 1942 widely used reference document: http://www.boulder.nist.gov/div838/SelectedPubs/Circular%20440%20Table%20114.pdf

Etc., etc.

I've found this same table here: http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm where the focus is on calculating percent alcohol (PA).

So, how do we clear this up?

Eric

akueck
09-08-2009, 04:55 PM
I think the discrepancy is between a sugar-water solution and a sugar-water-alcohol solution. Brix is % sugar, which is not the same as SG--which is just density--but there are ways to calculate one from the other. In a sugar-water solution, the correlation between Brix and SG is different than it would be for a sugar-water-alcohol solution, as alcohol and water have different densities. (James' comment assumes an alcohol-water density of 0.995 for example.) When there is alcohol in the mix, a SG of 1.000 corresponds to a nonzero amount of remaining sugars. For just sugar-water, 1.000 means no sugar. The difference isn't earth-shattering but could easily account for about 0.005 SG or 1ish Brix.

Medsen Fey
09-08-2009, 06:29 PM
Eric, thanks for posting the link to the National Standards Board (1942). I like going straight to the source. ;)

I think that answers the question nicely - for a sugar water solution, the Brix 2.56 is equivalent to a gravity of 1.010.

As Aaron points out, the BRsquared chart is designed to try to help calculate alcohol content in a wine or mead and I think it is taking into account the fact that the actual sugar concentration is higher than what the refractometer reads because the alcohol (with a gravity of 0.7851) is making the reading lower. That is why a mead really isn't dry at 1.000, but actually needs to get down close to 0.990 to be completely dry. A lot of calculators make this kind of correction with their formulas when calculating for a ABV.

epetkus
09-08-2009, 08:28 PM
Excellent!

Thanks Aaron & Medsen & JamesP for clearing this up with regards to the table. Of course, now I'm wondering why my supposed wine hydrometer is calibrated to water!

In any case, it seems that an "adjustment" of ~-0.005 SG needs to be made to the FG reading (in SG on the hydrometer) to account for the alcohol in the mixture lowering the reference point.

For example, using my last batch, I had an OG = 1.131 SG/30.5 Brix as measured on my (water referenced) hydrometer (which is accurate since it truly is a water-sugar mixture at this stage).

I had a Final SG of 1.010 resulting in an equivalent ABV SG value of 1.121 or ~16.2% ABV. However, reducing this final number by 0.005 yields an equivalent ABV SG number of 1.116, or 15.5% ABV.

If I used the Brix scale on the same hydrometer, OG=30.5 Brix and FG = 2.5 Brix, that results in an equivalent ABV Brix value of 28 or ~15.5% AB.

So, back to the newbee guide, it may be worth having both a sugar-water conversion along with the sugar/water/alcohol conversions. Obviously, our pre-fermented musts are the sugar/water type, so anyone wanting to convert SG-to-Brix at that stage would be better served with the water-referenced table.

Thanks again all!

Eric

Medsen Fey
09-08-2009, 08:53 PM
Yes you get different answers depending on which formula you use. The simple 131*gravity drop says 15.8%, and I find that is usually close, but you can easily be off by 0.5%, and then when you factor in different amounts of evaporation of alcohol depending on temperature and such, calculating alcohol based on gravity changes can be +/- 1%.

If you measure alcohol by spirit indication you can get a more precise answer. I also think the hydrometer + refractometer calculations give a more precise answer because you are directly measuring the alcohol impact.


P.S. Does anyone think the guide needs a section on stabilizing and backsweetening?

Sasper
09-09-2009, 12:36 AM
P.S. Does anyone think the guide needs a section on stabilizing and backsweetening?

Yes, this was a confusing subject for me when I first started and seems to be a question asked a lot.

crowquill
09-09-2009, 05:45 AM
Yes, I'd like to see a section on stabilizing and backsweetening as well.

Angus
09-11-2009, 08:59 PM
Good suggestion on the stabalizing and backsweetening. I will write up another chapter and insert it ASAP.

Also, I think I will do a little more description on the Brix/SG issue. I asm trying to keep it as simple as possible though as it is a NewBee guide, but the issue clearly warrants some form of clarification.

Thanks guys. By the way, the screen-shots from the Calculator seem to be a little garbled. Can you guys read them properly?

Angus

crisp
05-10-2010, 07:00 AM
I agree -- many thanks to Angus and all those who have contributed. I was just reading over the guide again and it is a terrific resource.

I agree entirely, it has really help me with a lot of answers