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AngryViking

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 20, 2012
14
0
0
Hello shiny happy meady people. I've been having problems with my first attempt at mead and google keeps sending me your way. I'm really hoping I didn't colossally mess up here. I used a basic recipe with some chemical additions as suggested by the owner of the local homebrew shop.

15 pounds of honey
5 gallons of water
5 crushed campden tabs
1.5 tsp tannin
9 tsp tartaric acid
18 tsp malic acid
1 packet of lalvin EC-1118 yeast

I waited a day per the instructions before pitching the yeast. I rehydrated the yeast the instructions on the yeast packet and after 72 hours I saw no signs of fermentation. I then pitched a second pack of yeast in, dry, per the shop owner and bought a hydrometer against his advice. While the yeast seemed a little busier this time and hung out on top my SG is still at 1.1 72 hours since this second pitching.

I'm tempted to perhaps rack and pitch yet again. I'm also worried it's all the tabs and acids that are the problem.

Room temperature is 70, as is the mead per the temp strip.
 

Golddiggie

NewBee
Registered Member
Nov 22, 2010
472
0
0
Nashua, NH (USA)
photo.golddiggie.com
IMO, the acid was unnecessary and possibly harmful. Get some PH test strips (for wine should be good) and get a reading on the must. You want above a PH of 3.2. You should also only need a single packet of EC-1118 for ~5 gallons of must (or even 6).

I wouldn't rack again, but I would get some yeast energizer and/or nutrient (Fermaid, Fermax) and hit the must with the recommended dosage (typically 1tsp/gallon of must)...

I would also look over the newbee guides on these forums to see how to properly start a mead. IMO, the guy from the LHBS is giving you either really dated methods, or he's really a grape wine maker and doesn't know much about making mead. Once you get the mead to start fermenting, you'll probably have it go to very dry, and not have much honey flavor/aroma left in it (nature of the beast when you use EC-1118 in a must with that OG).

I do suspect that the acid, and other chemicals, you added are the source of your issues. I've never used tannin or acid in any of my meads and have never had an issue with them not taking off within a normal amount of time.
 

fatbloke

good egg/snappy dresser.....
GotMead Patron
Well reading the op and GD's posts, I suspect GD has hit the nail on the head, though I'd suspect that the sulphites as well. There's no need to hit honey musts with campden tablets.

So I'd guess its stunned the yeast as there's no guarantee that they'll dissipate in 24 hours. Yes they will dissipate but 24 hours is a guide/guesstimate.

Hence the lagging being increased some.

Personally I'd just aerate the hell out of it at least once a day for a couple of days as that's likely to help it kick in......
 

AngryViking

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 20, 2012
14
0
0
Ok, so what's the rescue plan here? Obviously however well meaning I'm not listening to the homebrew guy again. Do I just stir a lot or add yeast energizer/nutrient too? And no new yeast?
 

Vance G

NewBee
Registered Member
Aug 30, 2011
564
3
0
Great Falls Montana
Just re-read fat blokes comments and consider doing what he suggested. Give the yeast inhibiting substance a chance to dissipate. Wait a couple days and see if you don't get some action.
 

Medsen Fey

Fuselier since 2007
Premium Patron
I suspect your issue is that you added a massive dose of acid, and the pH of your must is probably so low it is stalling the yeast. Either get a pH meter or some test strips for wine that have the range from 3.0 to 4.0 covered. If your reading is coming in at 3.0 or lower, then you'll need to add potassium bicarbonate (or carbonate) or calcium carbonate to get the pH above 3.2 and then the yeast will be able to function.

EC-1118 is a strong yeast that can tolerate low pH well, and they may gradually be able to multiply enough to get fermentation going in your must, but it won't be a vigorous, healthy fermentation.

Also, have you double checked your gravity reading? 15 pound plus 5 gallons of water won't give a gravity reading of 1.172.
 

Intheswamp

NewBee
Registered Member
Oct 9, 2012
257
1
0
South Alabama
AV, did you rehydrate your yeast for the first pitch? Did you use something like Go-Ferm to help the yeast get off to a good start?

Ed
 

AngryViking

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 20, 2012
14
0
0
MF, you might be right about the sg. It was sitting at 1.1, I went to grab my camera to make sure and it was at 1.13 if I'm reading it right.
Swamp, no I put it in dry and didn't add anything additional.
Due to me apparently not knowing how to use a hydrometer I may wait a few more days and take a few additional readings. But visibly nothing is happening. No bubbles in the airlock at all, which I know isn't an exact indication, but yeah.
 

AngryViking

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 20, 2012
14
0
0
I'd probably do it all at the same time. The nutrient has dosage levels, the energizer does not.
 

Medsen Fey

Fuselier since 2007
Premium Patron
If your energizer is one like Fermaid K, Wyeast nutrient blend, Fermax, or other similar product that looks like tan powder and is composed of a combination if DAP and autolyzed yeast, you may have better results if you use more energizer and less DAP.

So 1 tsp energizer and 1/2 tsp DAP per gallon is recommend more often. That works out to be about 200-250 ppm YAN which will work for most regular strength fermentations.

However, we typically suggest getting a scale as it is far more consistent to go by weight. A tsp of energizer is about 4g and a tsp of DAP is closer to 5g


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

AngryViking

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 20, 2012
14
0
0
I put the recommended dosage of nutrient and energizer in yesterday afternoon. It's clinking away now, not a jackhammer but it seems promising. Not a lot of foam, but maybe that's normal?
 

fatbloke

good egg/snappy dresser.....
GotMead Patron
I put the recommended dosage of nutrient and energizer in yesterday afternoon. It's clinking away now, not a jackhammer but it seems promising. Not a lot of foam, but maybe that's normal?
Well, whatever the actual problem was, whether it was the high amount of acid you indicated using or the campden/sulphite needing more time to dissipate or whatever, if it's fermenting away now, that's good.

Just keep an eye on it though, what with the amount of acid you quoted and that meads do show quite wild pH swings during the fermentation, you should keep checking the pH level at least once a week with either a pH meter or wine range litmus paper test strips. It wants to be above about 3.0 with the "apparent" sweet spot being at about 3.4 pH.

Don't worry about a lack of foaming, it's not a beer and some yeast/honey combo's don't show much foaming anyway.....
 

Golddiggie

NewBee
Registered Member
Nov 22, 2010
472
0
0
Nashua, NH (USA)
photo.golddiggie.com
Well, whatever the actual problem was, whether it was the high amount of acid you indicated using or the campden/sulphite needing more time to dissipate or whatever, if it's fermenting away now, that's good.

Just keep an eye on it though, what with the amount of acid you quoted and that meads do show quite wild pH swings during the fermentation, you should keep checking the pH level at least once a week with either a pH meter or wine range litmus paper test strips. It wants to be above about 3.0 with the "apparent" sweet spot being at about 3.4 pH.

Don't worry about a lack of foaming, it's not a beer and some yeast/honey combo's don't show much foaming anyway.....

Unless you degas/aerate it... :eek:
Then, if you don't have a large enough vessel, have a damp towel ready to cleanup with after (you, the floor, the wall, maybe the ceiling)... :eek:;D
 

AngryViking

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 20, 2012
14
0
0
By the way, just wanted to thank you guys. It's been bubbling away since I added the nutrients and energizer. Happy little yeast :) I'd of just had honey juice if I didn't stop by.
 
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