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Maximus
08-31-2013, 11:07 AM
Ok, so this is my first post here and I've read through the Newbie guide and as many applicable posts as possible and have decided to get some thoughts on my first go at a mead. I've done about a dozen beers (8 were quite good) and believe I have all the necessary brewing/bottling equipment. I also have read and will have as reference "The Compleat Meadmaker".

So, I'll be using Northern Brewer's recipe (roughly) and have the opportunity to do 3-5 gallons (Question #1, does the size I make matter too much?). I have 24lbs of completely untreated honey (Question #2, how do I treat it?)

The ingredients (Question #3, What quantities should I be going with?):

- Mostly clover, some buckwheat-source honey (24lbs available)
- Yeast Nutrient and Energizer
- Wyeast 4783 Rudesheimer Yeast (have 2 slap packs)
- Water (Question #4, bottled or tap?)

Fermenting location is around 72 degrees and I was planning on partially submerging the carboy in water to stabilize the temperature (fluctuations are about +/- 4 degrees per day.

Phew, thank you for bearing with the long post and any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! I hope in a few years I can start contributing to the site! Take care!

EDIT: Please pardon my typo in the subject...I'm really not an idiot, I swear.

fatbloke
08-31-2013, 11:42 AM
1 ? No....

2 ? You don't. It's gonna be best as it is.

3 ? Initially something along the lines of 3 to 3.5 lb made up to a gallon.

4 ? Neither IMO. People often go on about nutrients from water but if you were relying on the water for nutrients it would need the nutritional requirement of raw sewage. You would normally be providing the nutrition so water should just be "soft" water. Hence recycled rain or even reverse osmosis water (distilled tends to carry a cost premium)....

As an aside, have no idea what the profile of that yeast might be. It seems that generally, its dry wine yeasts that're used in meads, but what the hell.....

Welcome to the forums......

Jim H
08-31-2013, 11:51 AM
- Wyeast 4783 Rudesheimer Yeast (have 2 slap packs)

See this link. http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=64

It looks like a 14% ABV, used in various wines, braggots and metheglins. Should be a good yeast to use.

Maximus
08-31-2013, 11:56 AM
Thank you for the rapid response. That seems in line with what I have have been reading about. The only reason I was asking about batch size was because was thinking about all the empty head space in my carboys ( have 6.5 gal glass).

I am heading off to the store in a bit to buy the last bit of equipment and I saw some videos with interesting technique. What do you think about mixing the must in a bottling bucket then dumping it into the glass carboy and letting the pour further aerate it?

From this guy: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9E2B31D6B53DA1B1

I'll also be picking up a electric must stirrer, some backup yeast (thinking Lavlin D47 or close) and a clarifying agent of some sort. Not sure of Bentonite or isenglass.

Basically I'm a tad nervous using NB's recipe, but I figure its got to be hard to truly screw up.

Jim H
08-31-2013, 04:16 PM
I am a noob, but I have had some recent experience that might help.

If you're going to get "back up" yeast, get EC-1118, or K1V. If you actually need the backup, you'll need a good strong yeast to kill off other interloping wild yeasts, and a back up that will grow strongly in your must. Using K1V kept my must going when it got stuck.

Get wine-range pH paper, and a working hydrometer (if you don't have one already). Test frequently, make sure the pH doesn't go below 3 or so, and ensure that fermentation continues without stopping. You can return the samples to the fermenter (unlike beer) as long as you are a sanitizing freak with your test equipment. Yet another mistake of mine that you can avoid - not testing enough.

Aerate like crazy until the first third sugar break. DO NOT treat it like beer, which is more sensitive to oxidation and calls for less vigorous aeration. That was a mistake I made.

While you're at it, make a 12 hour starter with the yeast using some honey in it and a little Go-ferm. That's another mistake I made, to NOT use a starter.

Get Fermaid K and DAP, and feed it to the must for the first few days. There's a couple of recipes for the nutrient feedings on this forum, but as long as you follow one of them, it will turn out fine. DO NOT feed it as if it were a beer, which is often not enough for a mead. That was a mistake I made.

Get a packet of superkleer finings. It's a lot less work, and has consistent results.

Use the mead calculator to make sure that the amount of honey in your volume of must will hit 14% (your yeast's ABV). Good advice that I got here was to ferment to the limit of the yeast's ABV, with no extra honey in the must -- get it dry. Then, backsweeten to the semi-sweetness you want. Careful if you have to switch to your back up yeast... they need more honey to satisfy 18% ABV.

And, there's a few long standing members on the forum who really know their stuff. Generally, their total post count indicates how experienced they are. Pay attention to their posts while you peruse this forum. They've helped me a lot.

If you don't do my mistakes, you'll probably have your mead done sooner than mine! ;)

Maximus
08-31-2013, 05:49 PM
Good advice, matches up with 75% of what I found out at the brew shop (two mead guys were there same time as me today, woohoo!). After advice and another review of The Compleat Meadmaker I am going to go with a no-heat batch this weekend and do another next weekend (melomel with raspberry or blueberry, not sure yet). Thanks for the tips and I'll post final recipes/methods and results on this thread!

Maximus
09-01-2013, 08:04 AM
So here is the brew plan for today and then the nutrient/aeration schedule, thoughts are welcome:

Ingredients for 5 gallon batch:

15lbs honey from down the street (mostly clover w/buckwheat, very dark)
Wyeast 4783 Rudesheimer Yeast
Nutrient (1/2 tsp)/Energizer (1/4 tsp) blend
R/O Water (4 galons)

1) Morning of brewing, activate both Wyeast packs and set in warm area for ~3-5hrs.
2) Wash and Sanitize equipment/bottles.
3) Fill sink with star san solution for any needed sanitizing and cooler with hot tap water for honey jars.
4) Place 3 gallons at room temp in bottling bucket
5) Add nutrient blend and stir
6) Heat water on stove for dissolving out remaining honey.
7) Add honey to bucket
8) Use hot water to reclaim honey
9) Add remaining water to get to 5 gallons and stir until well dissolved (5-15min)
10) Take OG reading
11) Add activated yeast packs (2) to bucket and stir for 2 min
12) Use spout to transfer to 6.5 gal carboy (aeration help here)
13) Cap and place at 72 deg to ferment.

Nutrient Schedule:
@ 24 hour intervals for 3 days:
1) SG reading
2) Degas
3) Nutrient addition
4) Stir

When no SG changes for 48hrs, transfer to 5gal carboy and add bentonite solution.

Hang out for 8 weeks or so until clear

Add Meta tabs stir well, wait 3 hours, then sorbate.

Wish me luck!

McJeff
09-01-2013, 08:55 AM
I would do two diff batches for variety.

Maximus
09-01-2013, 09:13 AM
I'll be doing another next weekend.

Medsen Fey
09-01-2013, 11:02 AM
If you put a 5-gallon batch in a 6.5 gallon carboy, be very careful when you stir and aerate so you don't get a Vesuvius of an MEA in your brew area. Antifoam smeared around the inside of the carboy neck can be a big help. My approach is to ferment 5-gallon batches in a 10-gallon fermenter (means never having to mop up a mess).

I'm not sure about the nutrient amounts in the kits, and if you weigh out what you're adding and let us know, folks may be able to tell you if it is enough. Generally speaking, folks tend to under-nourish the yeast, and I'm not sure the kits provide enough.

If you can use a swamp cooler to keep the temp below 70F, you'll probably be happier in the long run.

Good luck with your batch!
(And do not be concerned. You are correct that it is hard to really mess up a mead. There are only two ways to do it reliably - add too much oak, and add too much acid :) )

Maximus
09-01-2013, 02:02 PM
Thanks! I'm trying to get a decent setup for cooling and I should be able to get around 70 reliably. The room has been at 71.4 (+/- 0.2 deg) degrees for the past two days. I had no idea to expect that much foaming....huh. Glad I decided not to do it in a 5 gallon! (What is MEA?)

I am not following a kit per se, just some of the directions from one. The nutrients and such will have 10% added to cover for measurement errors since I heard about under feeding.

Medsen Fey
09-01-2013, 02:10 PM
(What is MEA?)
Mead Eruption Accident ;D



I am not following a kit per se, just some of the directions from one. The nutrients and such will have 10% added to cover for measurement errors since I heard about under feeding.

How much and what types of nutrient to you plan to use?

Maximus
09-01-2013, 02:25 PM
I am using the following:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/yeast-energizer.html 1/4 tsp on each addition

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/yeast-nutrient.html 1/2 tsp on each addition

Medsen Fey
09-01-2013, 02:48 PM
And how many additions of each?

Maximus
09-01-2013, 03:44 PM
As per my recipe below, 3 additions spaced 24hrs apart after the first.

Maximus
09-01-2013, 04:49 PM
Well, she is in the Primary at 70.5 degrees with a OG of 1.105. Neato.

Medsen Fey
09-01-2013, 05:26 PM
OK. So we are looking at a total of 4 doses, so 1 tsp of energizer and 2 tsp of yeast nutrient (DAP). That works out to about 10 grams of DAP or about 110 ppm YAN from the DAP and about 4 grams of energizer providing another 20 ppm YAN (that last is a bit of a guess on my part as I'm not sure of the nitrogen content of the LD carson energizer product - most folks around here use Fermaid K or O, or Fermax, or products that are a nice tan powder).

That is the bare minimum and is lower than the usual level I set as a floor (150 ppm). While this will probably get your batch done, as these kits are designed to work, I typically use a minimum of 200 ppm, and often use much more.

In the future, you may want to get some of these other energizer products so that you can plan the doses of nitrogen you want to add more easily. For now, I would suggest increasing the energizer in your plan. 1 tsp is very, very little. I would have no problem adding a total of 5 tsp of energizer along with the 2 tsp of nutrient (DAP). I don't mind a lot of yeast hulls and vitamins.

Maximus
09-01-2013, 06:04 PM
So you think I should add some now or wait until my scheduled first addition and double what I was planning? I have nothing against a little extra food. The energizer powder I have is tan. I'll certainly look into the other products you mentioned as I am hoping to put together a melomel next weekend with blackberry and a honey blend :-).

Medsen Fey
09-01-2013, 07:10 PM
You can wait until the first SNA feeding. But I'd probably quadruple the tan powder.

Maximus
09-01-2013, 07:54 PM
Holy acronyms batman. Almost as bad as the Navy. SNA = ?

EDIT: I was hoping that by adding two Wyeast slap packs plus the nutrients I would avoid any stalled start...that is really what I am afraid of.

Medsen Fey
09-01-2013, 08:15 PM
SNA = ?

Staggered Nutrient Additions - that's what they call it when you spread the additions out over time.

You're doing the right things for success. Feed the yeast, aerate them during the first 1/3 of fermentation, and pitch a healthy amount are all good steps.

The only other concern that frequently plagues traditional meads is pH drops. Most folks that make traditionals find it helps to be prepared to check pH and to have some carbonates handy to move it up to 3.2-3.5 if it gets below that.


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Maximus
09-02-2013, 07:33 AM
Yeah, made a second trip to the brew shop to grab some ph strips when my bucket spigot broke and they were out of the wine range strips! I'll see if I can order some to have in a couple days. Will I be missing out on anything if I don't test pH until Day 3? Which chemical is best to raise the pH? I'm a biochemist by training so feel free to be technical. Thank you for taking the time to help me out here, tchuss!

Also, woke up this morning to semi-strong fermentation. We'll see what happens around lunch, but how much should I focus on aerating it before I add my energizer/nutrient blend? I measured out 3/4 tsp of energizer and 1 tsp of nutrient for my additions.

Medsen Fey
09-02-2013, 08:08 AM
Potassium bicarbonate is your best option for pH adjustment. A pH meter is a useful investment because the pH strips are a bit of a pain.

I typically just add the nutrients and stir them in with a whisk to aerate while making the nutrient addition.



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Maximus
09-02-2013, 09:00 AM
Sounds good, I'll be using a mix-stir while doing the additions on a low speed (~500-700 RPM).

For pH meter, something similar to one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-PH-009-Quality-Digital-Pocket/dp/B00CH3QZSE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1378126373&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+meter

http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Electrode-Batteries-Resolution/dp/B0085WOIMQ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1378126608&sr=8-13&keywords=ph+meter

fatbloke
09-02-2013, 12:12 PM
The cheap one looks very similar to the one I use......

And its cheaper than the hanna one....

Just remember it helps to have calibration fluid.....

Medsen Fey
09-02-2013, 03:56 PM
Either of those will do the job.

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Maximus
09-02-2013, 04:22 PM
Excellent, thanks guys! Also, is it a big no-no to pour your thief sample back in? Everything will be well star-san'd.

Maximus
09-02-2013, 05:28 PM
Just got back from my first addition. Stirred it first, lots of activity (MEA #1), then added nutrients/energizer (1tsp each as per rec'd) and stirred again with a minor MEA followup. All done in a 6.5 gal carboy. Smell was pretty amazing though. Blow-off tube might be a good idea I guess as opposed to a standard air lock. Seems the airlock is at capacity right now.

Medsen Fey
09-02-2013, 06:12 PM
It is safe to pour the sample back in.

Maximus
09-03-2013, 07:18 PM
So, 48 hours in and while it looks like it is fermenting strongly, I am unsure if it is strong enough. At 24 hrs I was at about 1.100 SG then 48 hrs at 1.095 with a OG of 1.105. The 48 hour reading might be a bit off since I broke my hydrometer and had to use my back up. I'll be able to get pH readings at 96 hrs, and I hope its not too late to do any changes. Thanks again for all the help! Thoughts?

I was planning on doing just one more addition at 72hrs with 1tsp of both energizer and nutrient.

Jim H
09-03-2013, 07:46 PM
OK. So we are looking at a total of 4 doses, so 1 tsp of energizer and 2 tsp of yeast nutrient (DAP). That works out to about 10 grams of DAP or about 110 ppm YAN from the DAP and about 4 grams of energizer providing another 20 ppm YAN (that last is a bit of a guess on my part as I'm not sure of the nitrogen content of the LD carson energizer product - most folks around here use Fermaid K or O, or Fermax, or products that are a nice tan powder).

That is the bare minimum and is lower than the usual level I set as a floor (150 ppm). While this will probably get your batch done, as these kits are designed to work, I typically use a minimum of 200 ppm, and often use much more.

In the future, you may want to get some of these other energizer products so that you can plan the doses of nitrogen you want to add more easily. For now, I would suggest increasing the energizer in your plan. 1 tsp is very, very little. I would have no problem adding a total of 5 tsp of energizer along with the 2 tsp of nutrient (DAP). I don't mind a lot of yeast hulls and vitamins.

Thanks for this post. I think my current mead, which has a calculated SG of 1.137, could use a boost. This got me looking for additional info on how to calculate what's needed. I think I will beef up the food additions a tad based on what I found.

Maximus
09-03-2013, 09:26 PM
So, 48 hours in and while it looks like it is fermenting strongly, I am unsure if it is strong enough. At 24 hrs I was at about 1.100 SG then 48 hrs at 1.095 with a OG of 1.105. The 48 hour reading might be a bit off since I broke my hydrometer and had to use my back up. I'll be able to get pH readings at 96 hrs, and I hope its not too late to do any changes. Thanks again for all the help! Thoughts?

I was planning on doing just one more addition at 72hrs with 1tsp of both energizer and nutrient.

Maximus
09-04-2013, 01:55 PM
Sorry to bump this again, but I do my 3rd (and last?) addition of nutrient in 3 hours and am just a tad worried. I am going to go to town oxygenating and do another tsp of each energizer/nutrient. Is that a bad plan? Thanks! OG was 1.105 and curreng SG (at 48hrs) was ~1.095.

Maximus
09-04-2013, 06:05 PM
Well, went ahead with aerating and adding nutrient. SG was ~1.080 which is a 0.015 drop in the last 24hrs. In my mind that is good progress and I should be set, but should I check again in a few days to make sure I am tracking? I'd love to see some graphs if anyone has done that before of optimal fermentation. Maybe a bell-like curve? I seem to remember yeast density (population) reaching peak was optimal at about day 6.

Maximus
09-06-2013, 06:48 AM
I'm trying to decide if I should go in for another SG.

OG: 1.105
24hrs: 1.100
48hrs: 1.095
72hrs: 1.080

I can't seem to find any supporting documentation in Meadmaker or here for specific trends, but I was thinking of going back in around Day 6. I just hate opening the thing back up all the time.... Can anyone appease my minor concern? Thanks!

rmccask
09-06-2013, 08:08 AM
Usually I am watching the airlock during this period. As long as it is bubbling actively, I can be pretty confident that fermentation is going on. I also smell the output of the airlock to see if there are any odd odors signaling a problem. When the airlock activity slows to the point that I am not sure it is bubbling anymore, then I start checking the SG every couple of days or so.

If you really want to know the SG, opening it to test it isn't adding too much risk as long as you sanitize all your tools. The must should have a blanket of CO2 protecting it from oxygen while the fermentation is going on.

As far as trends, I have seen so many variations that I am not sure what is normal. It varies a lot because of yeast, OG, nutrients, temperature, and pH plus probably other things I am forgetting. Your values so far seem reasonable.

Maximus
09-06-2013, 08:33 AM
That's basically what I was thinking. I just haven't been able to measure pH yet and was worried it would drop a little low. Doesn't look like I'll break in there just to measure it. The fermenting is still glugging along strong about one big one per second out of the S-lock. I was just expecting more of a foam on the top like with beer making. Doesn't look like much here.

Medsen Fey
09-06-2013, 10:25 AM
Traditional meads don't foam as much as beer.

You won't harm mead by opening and checking it. As long ad there are actively fermenting yeast the must will not oxidize. Traditionals tend to be resistant to oxidation even after fermentation is over. So if you need to check pH go ahead - it is better to make adjustments before problems stress the yeast. Most times, if there are pH issues you will be able to measure them within 24-48 hours. If the pH is OK at that point it is unlikely to become a problem.

With that said I usually have my pH in proper range and my aeration done in the first couple of days, and my last nutrient in by the 1/3 fermentation point. After that I close it and forget it except for swirling it occasionally to resuspend the yeast. When it seems to be done, then I confirm the gravity is stable. I try to do as much "nothing" as possible with meads.

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Maximus
09-08-2013, 01:35 PM
About 7 days in now to the fermentation and I plan on checking SG and pH today. Fermentation is going along ok still. One bubble every 6 seconds. I am hoping to see a much larger point drop from the 72 hour point.

Maximus
09-08-2013, 06:04 PM
Well, 7 days out and I am at 1.045. A 60 point drop, which I hope is not terrible. I figure another 7 days and I should be right about where I want it. Totally forgot to take a pH reading...doh! Tasted it and I was surprised by the mildly medicinal taste, but certainly solid honey characteristics (I would hope!) and mildly flowery on the nose. Was mildly "off", but not as much as I was fearing.

Does this seem on track?

Medsen Fey
09-08-2013, 06:23 PM
It sounds like it is moving OK. The medicinal quality is probably just the buckwheat showing itself. Don't be surprised if this batch needs aging. It is common with dark honey batches.



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Maximus
09-17-2013, 07:53 PM
Well, I am down to a burp every 25-30 seconds and thinking about taking another sample soon, but am now worried. I saw a colony-looking white mass on the top of my mead and not sure if that is bacteria or yeast... Should I post a picture or not freak out too much?

Medsen Fey
09-17-2013, 09:40 PM
I wouldn't worry about it. In an active fermentation, you're not likely to have anything bad growing. That typically comes later, and with too much headspace and oxygen exposure.

Maximus
09-17-2013, 10:05 PM
Alrighty. Also for this batch, I am thinking of doing the secondary in a plastic carboy (bubbler from NB). Any personal experience with that? I do have a glass 5 gallon, but want to save that for aging.

Riverat
09-17-2013, 11:47 PM
Sounds like a plan!

Maximus
09-22-2013, 10:06 PM
Racked to secondary today after 1.004 readings. Took a taste and while pretty strong, still had that medicinal taste. I figure I'll let it sit for a month or so in the plastic carboy and then over to the glass for the final few months and clarifying. Thoughts?

Medsen Fey
09-23-2013, 07:03 AM
Took a taste and while pretty strong, still had that medicinal taste.

Buckwheat meads do tend to need more aging.



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Maximus
09-24-2013, 10:10 AM
So I've heard. Think I make a bad call on racking too early. I'll just let this one sit for even longer, but my only concern is aging for any significant amount of time in a plastic carboy, even one that is designed for wine/beer aging. Anywho, I figure 3 months in that and then kick it over to glass when I add clarifying agents and such.

Medsen Fey
09-24-2013, 12:32 PM
Racking at 1.004 shouldn't be a problem. And letting it finish in a plastic container (if it is made of PET plastic) is fine. I've aged things in a PET container for up to a year with no issues. It sounds like everything will be good.




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Maximus
04-13-2014, 10:46 AM
Well, it looks like my previous posts were lost in the past couple days, but Medsen, this is the order I think will be right:

1. Rack
2. Back-sweeten to taste and measure gravity and add honey to match
3. Stabilize and let sit for 30+ days or so (I have to due to Alaska trip)
4. Clarify upon return and wait 24-48 hours.
5. Bottle.

Thoughts?

moridin
04-13-2014, 12:08 PM
U should stabilize before u backsweeten bro


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Maximus
04-13-2014, 12:12 PM
Yeah, that was not exactly well thought-out... Still fried from building my hop and herb gardens :-). Corrected order:

1. Rack
2. Stabilize and let sit for 30+ days or so (I have an Alaska trip)
3. Back-sweeten to taste and measure gravity and add honey to match (waiting after this?)
4. Clarify upon return and wait 24-48 hours.
5. Bottle.

moridin
04-13-2014, 02:39 PM
Sounds good, you might need more time after u back sweeten in order for perfect clarity of your mead. However certain fining agents like super kleer or whatever work magic


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Maximus
04-13-2014, 02:55 PM
Yeah, the "clarify" will be with super-kleer.

moridin
04-13-2014, 03:08 PM
Nice. Look forward to seeing some pics of the bottled product :)


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Medsen Fey
04-13-2014, 04:50 PM
Actually the order I would recommend is:
1. Rack
2. Stabilize then wait 12-24 hours.
3. Backsweeten to taste and measure gravity.
4. Treat with fining agent. Keep under airlock.
5. Leave it for 30 days.
6. Confirm the gravity is unchanged.
7. Bottle.


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zpeckler
04-17-2014, 05:06 PM
This is an excellently educational thread. Thanks to everyone who contributed!

It brings up something I was wondering. I'm doing my first batch now. About a week ago my fermentation finished (FG 0.996 for 72hrs) and I racked it from my plastic fermenter to a carboy to get it off the lees. Since then more lees have settled out, but the mead is still very cloudy to the point of being opaque. My plan going forward is to age the mead in bulk in the carboy for at least 6 months.

I'm thinking I'll probably have to rack again at some point in the next week or two to get the mead off the new lees that are forming? I don't want them to start autolysing and make my mead taste yeasty.

My main question is this: is it better to stabilize, back-sweeten, adjust acidity, and clarify now at the beginning of aging--the thought being to let the flavors marry and gain complexity during that time--or to do all that at the end of the bulk aging prior to bottling?

Medsen Fey
04-17-2014, 05:46 PM
I find that it is useful to let the mead clear and age a little (like 6 months) before deciding on sweetening or other additions. As the mead clears and the hot alcohols mellow, you'll probably find you won't need to sweeten as much. If you do it early you may overshoot. After I stabilize and backsweeten I let it age for months (or years) before bottling which gives plenty of time to make sure the flavors marry and to make sure the yeast remain dormant.

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Maximus
04-22-2014, 09:41 PM
So I will be racking off the last of the lees and stabilizing this weekend and I thought that I should post a pic of this. Its pretty dark, but we'll see how it tastes soon I think. Not 100% sure of what to put at the bottom of the carboy to rack onto, but hope to have that straightened out soon. Thoughts?

1352

moridin
04-22-2014, 11:47 PM
I have never used any, but I have heard others talk about using marbles

Btw that mead has great color

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Maximus
04-23-2014, 06:53 AM
Sorry, I was unclear as to what I meant. I was referring to the stabilizing chemicals. Although, as to the fruit part, should I strain it through a boiled muslin bag then toss the bag in? I was just planning on pouring the puree in then racking on top of that with no bad/straining. I was thinking that the super kleer would drop what I don't want later. Also, I didn't use any pectinase, but I didn't think I'd have to with the puree. Thanks again!

I'm glad to hear the color is good. I used mostly buckwheat and clover honey and it was SO dark. I am going to use some really nice orange blossom to back sweeten this traditional as needed, but hoping that I don't have to use much.

moridin
04-23-2014, 02:00 PM
As far as stabilizing you should hit it with sorbate and potassium meta. For the actual amounts I can't remember off hand but could let u know after work. I personally would use a bag, that would just be easiest for you and then You'd avoid the chance of getting any fruit bits/ seeds stuck in your siphon.


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Medsen Fey
04-23-2014, 04:38 PM
If you use 1 gram per gallon of potassium sorbate plus 1.5 Campden tablets (KMeta 660 mg) per gallon it will usually work. If you want, you get get kits to measure free SO2 so you can get the active form to the exact level you desire.

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Maximus
04-23-2014, 07:05 PM
That is pretty much what I was thinking, but I would put all that in the rack on top of it, right? So would I use the Super Kleer before or after the stabilizing? The directions for super kleer have a lot of stirring involved. I think this might be the one area where Ken's book falls a bit short, but maybe I missed the stabilization and fining section. Better grab it off the book shelf again. Thanks again everyone for the help!!

moridin
04-24-2014, 01:34 AM
You would clear after stabilizing and back sweetening since back sweetening will cause your mead to haze


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Maximus
04-24-2014, 07:26 AM
Well, I feel ready for my final stage before bottling...thanks!!