PDA

View Full Version : What gives beer it's "mouth fullness" and other general beer questions.



McJeff
01-06-2014, 07:10 AM
Found some mead recipes here with hops in it. So figured I would try it. Just need a bit more info. Is there a diff between hop pellets and leaves? Potency? What is the diff between boiling hops vs "dry hoping". How long do you leave hops in the must? What's a average range of amount of hops per gallon?

Marshmallow Blue
01-06-2014, 10:57 AM
Found some mead recipes here with hops in it. So figured I would try it. Just need a bit more info. Is there a diff between hop pellets and leaves? Potency? What is the diff between boiling hops vs "dry hoping". How long do you leave hops in the must? What's a average range of amount of hops per gallon?

Beer uses grains that are mashed (held at a hot water temperature that converts starch to fermentable sugar). The final gravities of beer really help with the body. Final gravities of a "dry beer" would be around 1.010. That's bordering the medium range of a mead. But a normal beer may finish between 1.015 and 1.020 without being sweet like a mead at that gravity.

Pellets or flowers : They are the same hops, but pellets are ground and crushed into pellet form. It's really an oppinion. Pellets do dissolve in easier and will settle out. Flower (whole) hops are the entire cone and take a bit longer to extract, but they are the same hops.

Boiling hops: Boiling hops is a whole ball game. Adding them during different times determines what the hops contribute. Longer boils 30 minutes and beyond, all of the aromatics and flavors are driven off for the most part. 10-25 minutes it will contribute hop flavor and some bitterness. Hops added under 10 minutes will contribute mostly aroma. Dry hopping is an aroma booster.

Now that sweetness of a mead at 1.020 is because in a 1.020 beer there are bitter hops to knock that sweetness down. But when you add bitter hops to something as dry as a mead will be, it can be overpowering. It's not something I've played with yet, but if you use the search I'm sure theres plenty of mead logs using hops and you can see how theirs came out as well as their recipes.
Hope that answered your questions.

McJeff
01-06-2014, 11:51 AM
Beer uses grains that are mashed (held at a hot water temperature that converts starch to fermentable sugar). The final gravities of beer really help with the body. Final gravities of a "dry beer" would be around 1.010. That's bordering the medium range of a mead. But a normal beer may finish between 1.015 and 1.020 without being sweet like a mead at that gravity.

Pellets or flowers : They are the same hops, but pellets are ground and crushed into pellet form. It's really an oppinion. Pellets do dissolve in easier and will settle out. Flower (whole) hops are the entire cone and take a bit longer to extract, but they are the same hops.

Boiling hops: Boiling hops is a whole ball game. Adding them during different times determines what the hops contribute. Longer boils 30 minutes and beyond, all of the aromatics and flavors are driven off for the most part. 10-25 minutes it will contribute hop flavor and some bitterness. Hops added under 10 minutes will contribute mostly aroma. Dry hopping is an aroma booster.

Now that sweetness of a mead at 1.020 is because in a 1.020 beer there are bitter hops to knock that sweetness down. But when you add bitter hops to something as dry as a mead will be, it can be overpowering. It's not something I've played with yet, but if you use the search I'm sure theres plenty of mead logs using hops and you can see how theirs came out as well as their recipes.
Hope that answered your questions.

This was a perfect answer tyvm. jsut what i was looking for. Just one additional question. i assume you use the water you boil the hops in as your base liquid?

EDIT: also if it was a 2 gallon batch would you boil hops in the whole 2 gallons?

McJeff
01-06-2014, 12:05 PM
one more question how long do you leave hops in? Could i add it at the start of the ferm and rack at a month like i normally do or would that be too long?

kuri
01-06-2014, 12:23 PM
one more question how long do you leave hops in? Could i add it at the start of the ferm and rack at a month like i normally do or would that be too long?

Dry hops in beer are best removed after around a week at most. More than this and you risk getting a grassy flavor that has never been described as a positive thing by anyone I know.

Regarding the boiling question, there's a limit to how much hop bitterness you can get into water/wort/must. I don't remember the actual number, but the limit might be in the 100 IBU range. Since that's way way more than what you are going to want to try with a mead you would in principle have the option of boiling your hops in a smaller quantity of water and then adding that to your must. (I believe an acid environment helps with hop extraction because I think I've heard that before, though I can't vouch for it. If so, you'd probably be well served by putting a little honey in the water too.) I've never seen this mentioned, but I'd imagine that 100 IBUs in 1 liter would equate to 10 IBUs in 10 liters.

McJeff
01-06-2014, 12:50 PM
Dry hops in beer are best removed after around a week at most. More than this and you risk getting a grassy flavor that has never been described as a positive thing by anyone I know.

Regarding the boiling question, there's a limit to how much hop bitterness you can get into water/wort/must. I don't remember the actual number, but the limit might be in the 100 IBU range. Since that's way way more than what you are going to want to try with a mead you would in principle have the option of boiling your hops in a smaller quantity of water and then adding that to your must. (I believe an acid environment helps with hop extraction because I think I've heard that before, though I can't vouch for it. If so, you'd probably be well served by putting a little honey in the water too.) I've never seen this mentioned, but I'd imagine that 100 IBUs in 1 liter would equate to 10 IBUs in 10 liters.


hmm looks like i need to research this a bit more

bernardsmith
01-06-2014, 01:40 PM
hmm looks like i need to research this a bit more

I have just started to use hops (dry and boiled) in meads and hard cider so my knowledge is still far less than skimpy but I think the alpha number gives you an idea of the maximum IBUs that you can extract from any hop. I think beer makers don't boil hops for more than an hour and that extracts the most bitterness (because allows for the most isomerization of the hops). There is a balance between the bitterness and the flavors.
What I have done is boil the hops in the water I will later use to dilute the honey. I am not sure whether the water needs to be treated in any way to help isomerize the hops. Beer makers certainly don't boil their hops in water, but I don't know if the water needs to have a low pH or whether regular spring water with a pH of about 7 is OK

RachmaelBenApplebaum
01-06-2014, 01:44 PM
Beer uses grains that are mashed (held at a hot water temperature that converts starch to fermentable sugar). The final gravities of beer really help with the body. Final gravities of a "dry beer" would be around 1.010. That's bordering the medium range of a mead. But a normal beer may finish between 1.015 and 1.020 without being sweet like a mead at that gravity.


I've had a lot of beers attenuate down to 1.003-1.000, sometimes to .998 or so, sometimes lower with amylase added. The real mouth-feel of beer comes from residual sugar, yes, but there's also lots of dextrines from the malt as well as carbonation being a pretty huge factor.

Robusto
01-06-2014, 02:10 PM
McJeff-

There are quite a few different things that give beer it’s mouth feel. Proteins, Alcohol content, amount of carbonation, etc… but the thing that will most contribute to the beer’s mouth feel, whether it is a crisp, clean pilsner or a thick, viscous stout is the quantity of unfermented sugars left after fermentation is “complete”. You see, often beer yeast will “poop out” and not consume all of the fermentable sugars. Other times, there are sugars that the yeast just can’t consume, like lactose or Maltodextrin. These leftover sugars (some taste sweet, some do not) can make the beer feel “heavier on the tongue” or thicker or more viscous.

Pellets vs Whole hops-
Here is what I have found. Pellets typically store better (last longer all things being equal). They add less “vegetable matter’ to your wort (which can be a good or bad thing depending on your beer style). They also settle out faster in the kettle and the fermenter, and are generally less of a PITA when siphoning (don’t clog your tubing).
Whole hops when fresh I think add a more complex flavor and aroma profile. They are also useful for mash hopping (adding hops to the mash) and help with lautering in the grain bed- although no many people do this. Also, whole hops take up more space to store and in the kettle. They also absorb more water in the boil kettle so you need to adjust the volume accordingly.
As far potency- the Alpha Acid (AA) content should be printed on the package. All else being equal, if the AA content is the same, then you can use either one ounce for ounce/ gram for gram.

When you boil hops a lot of things go on, but most importantly, you isomerize the AA in the hops- that is, in lay terms, you make them bitter. The longer that you boil a hop the more bitterness that you extract (to a point). The amount of potential bitterness is affected by the gravity of the wort- all things equal, the higher the SG of the wort, the less bittering that you get per ounce of hops. Dry hopping only adds flavor and aroma.

Length of time in the wort (or must) is dependent on how much bittering/ flavor/ aroma you desire. There are many calculators available online that can assist you- just google “IBU Calculator”. For dryhopping one week is typical- two weeks max.

Average hops per gallon will vary greatly. For my Oktoberfest, I only use 0.3 oz/ gal of a low AA hop for a total of about 25 IBU’s. For a double IPA I use over 2 oz/gal for around 100 IBU’s. It all depends what you are going for. Keep in mind that IBU “feel” in beer don’t exactly translate to IBU’s in mead… there is a lot of other “stuff” in beer that can make the bitterness more or less intense.

IBU Calculator:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/


Hope this helps

Bob1016
01-06-2014, 03:22 PM
Also, pH plays a huge role in the quality of the bitterness. If you make 2 beers, same recipe and everything but one has a mash pH ~5.4 and the other ~5.8, the higher pH beer will be far more bitter, and it will be a harsher bitterness. If your going to boil the hops, I'd add some honey to bring the pH down below 5.5 or add lactic, but honey can work.

McJeff
01-06-2014, 03:47 PM
I have just started to use hops (dry and boiled) in meads and hard cider so my knowledge is still far less than skimpy but I think the alpha number gives you an idea of the maximum IBUs that you can extract from any hop. I think beer makers don't boil hops for more than an hour and that extracts the most bitterness (because allows for the most isomerization of the hops). There is a balance between the bitterness and the flavors.
What I have done is boil the hops in the water I will later use to dilute the honey. I am not sure whether the water needs to be treated in any way to help isomerize the hops. Beer makers certainly don't boil their hops in water, but I don't know if the water needs to have a low pH or whether regular spring water with a pH of about 7 is OK

I actually found a thread of yours i found pretty interesting and helpful. how much water do you boil in? 50%, 25% of what you are goin to use?

McJeff
01-06-2014, 04:01 PM
awesome answers guys tyvm! i think im just goin to buy some hops and try it. whats the worst that can happen :P

bernardsmith
01-06-2014, 05:03 PM
I actually found a thread of yours i found pretty interesting and helpful. how much water do you boil in? 50%, 25% of what you are goin to use?

Thanks for the feedback, McJeff (about your interest and the possible usefulness of the post) - much appreciated. I use 100 percent of the water I intend to use... BUT, if I boil for an hour (albeit with lid on the boiler) I lose some of the water as steam, so I am prepared to add more water to make up for the loss, but I don't boil the hops in less water than I intend to use because I am not certain of the chemistry involved.

In other words, if the alpha content of hop A is say 7.5 and I use only 1/2 a gallon of water or less to boil them in will the concentration of oils and acids result in the isomerization stopping at 3 due to some kind of saturation- where the water is unable to do any more work? I simply do not know. My ignorance.. (Can you obtain the full level of bitterness in an hour by boiling the hops in a pint of liquid or do you need to use a gallon for every ounce of hops? )

I assume that the addition of more water DOES dilute the bitterness... and that is OK. I am not trying to make a beer or a British bitter... I just like the idea of hopping mead and hopping hard cider.

I have made beer about twice in my life and I have never studied hops or hopping.

McJeff
01-06-2014, 05:25 PM
Thanks for the feedback, McJeff (about your interest and the possible usefulness of the post) - much appreciated. I use 100 percent of the water I intend to use... BUT, if I boil for an hour (albeit with lid on the boiler) I lose some of the water as steam, so I am prepared to add more water to make up for the loss, but I don't boil the hops in less water than I intend to use because I am not certain of the chemistry involved.

In other words, if the alpha content of hop A is say 7.5 and I use only 1/2 a gallon of water or less to boil them in will the concentration of oils and acids result in the isomerization stopping at 3 due to some kind of saturation- where the water is unable to do any more work? I simply do not know. My ignorance.. (Can you obtain the full level of bitterness in an hour by boiling the hops in a pint of liquid or do you need to use a gallon for every ounce of hops? )

I assume that the addition of more water DOES dilute the bitterness... and that is OK. I am not trying to make a beer or a British bitter... I just like the idea of hopping mead and hopping hard cider.

I have made beer about twice in my life and I have never studied hops or hopping.

we are totally on the same page and i just goin to dive in and do it!

skunkboy
01-06-2014, 05:32 PM
I've had a lot of beers attenuate down to 1.003-1.000, sometimes to .998 or so, sometimes lower with amylase added. The real mouth-feel of beer comes from residual sugar, yes, but there's also lots of dextrines from the malt as well as carbonation being a pretty huge factor.

Yeah but the mouthfeel from sugar/dextrines and carbonation are two different things.

BigBossMan
01-07-2014, 06:47 PM
One word of caution about using hops. They are sensitive to UV light. So you will have to ferment, age and bottle out of the light. Otherwise, the hops will skunk.

EDIT: This only applies to hops that have been boiled and gone through the isomerization process. Dry hops should be fine.

EDIT #2: Dry hopping is usually low alpha acid hops used mainly for aroma. They will overpower any of the delicate characteristics you will get from the honey or fruits.

McJeff
01-07-2014, 07:09 PM
One word of caution about using hops. They are sensitive to UV light. So you will have to ferment, age and bottle out of the light. Otherwise, the hops will skunk.

EDIT: This only applies to hops that have been boiled and gone through the isomerization process. Dry hops should be fine.

EDIT #2: Dry hopping is usually low alpha acid hops used mainly for aroma. They will overpower any of the delicate characteristics you will get from the honey or fruits.


well crap i totally would have not covered it up either

BigBossMan
01-07-2014, 08:18 PM
well crap i totally would have not covered it up either

Don't get discouraged. The skunking concern only applies to boiled hops.

Are you looking to make a braggot?

Chevette Girl
01-07-2014, 10:44 PM
My dry-hopped pumpkin hydromel didn't go skunky despite being in the front of the aging shelf and getting the most light... and there was also no hint of the vegetal flavours people have complained about. But for that second bit, I might just have been lucky.

Thanks for the reminder about boiled hops and light though, I will need to remember to put a cover on the pumpkin ale when I rack it to a glass carboy!

McJeff
01-08-2014, 09:38 AM
Don't get discouraged. The skunking concern only applies to boiled hops.

Are you looking to make a braggot?


not really sure what im making. was goin to do a normal mead recipe with boiled hops in it and see what comes of it.

kuri
01-08-2014, 11:15 AM
not really sure what im making. was goin to do a normal mead recipe with boiled hops in it and see what comes of it.

I'm very curious to hear how this comes out. It's the exact same thing I am hoping to try at some point, but I'm low on honey at the moment and don't want to get more until I've tasted the results of the last 3 varietals -- orange blossom, alfalfa and goldenrod. (Ok, I've tasted and almost finished the goldenrod, but not the other two.) I've decided to go for the 60 pound pail of honey next time to start experimenting with various yeasts and other things, and a hopped mead is right there on the list. Just want to get the honey I like the most first.

For what it's worth, I'm thinking of only going for the bitterness, and not the flavor or aroma. As part of a dry mead (.996-1.000).

McJeff
01-08-2014, 04:31 PM
Hey Chev Girl. I read someplace you really liked Fuggle hops. Isn't really know what hops to buy so I got US Fuggle hops. How long did you boil them, I was thinking I would only do 10-15mins.

McJeff
01-08-2014, 04:38 PM
I'm very curious to hear how this comes out. It's the exact same thing I am hoping to try at some point, but I'm low on honey at the moment and don't want to get more until I've tasted the results of the last 3 varietals -- orange blossom, alfalfa and goldenrod. (Ok, I've tasted and almost finished the goldenrod, but not the other two.) I've decided to go for the 60 pound pail of honey next time to start experimenting with various yeasts and other things, and a hopped mead is right there on the list. Just want to get the honey I like the most first.

For what it's worth, I'm thinking of only going for the bitterness, and not the flavor or aroma. As part of a dry mead (.996-1.000).

We will see, got 8 oz of Fuggle hops, goin to get some honey and start it later. Not sure how big the batch will be but I plan on using D47. Hoping for a FG of 1.010.

Bob1016
01-08-2014, 04:40 PM
FWIW I know some polish meads use hops along with other herbs/spices. Not sure how long they're boiled though.

mannye
01-08-2014, 05:06 PM
We will see, got 8 oz of Fuggle hops, goin to get some honey and start it later. Not sure how big the batch will be but I plan on using D47. Hoping for a FG of 1.010.

My 2 cents... I would not boil it until really late and I would add a LOT. Half a pound is a good start. That should give you big aroma and a nice bitterness although Fuggle isn't really a bittering hop but late in the boil will give you massive aroma.

The only hopped mead I've tried is Viking Blod but I think the bottle was skunked somehow as it tasted like sadness and disappointment rounded out by despair. But I've heard rave reviews of this stuff that is flavored with hibiscus and hops (don't know which ones) so I'm going to give it another chance one day.

McJeff
01-08-2014, 07:47 PM
Hey Chev Girl. I read someplace you really liked Fuggle hops. Isn't really know what hops to buy so I got US Fuggle hops. How long did you boil them, I was thinking I would only do 10-15mins.

good lord, was tryin to type quickly on my phone. sorry :P

McJeff
01-08-2014, 07:54 PM
My 2 cents... I would not boil it until really late and I would add a LOT. Half a pound is a good start. That should give you big aroma and a nice bitterness although Fuggle isn't really a bittering hop but late in the boil will give you massive aroma.

The only hopped mead I've tried is Viking Blod but I think the bottle was skunked somehow as it tasted like sadness and disappointment rounded out by despair. But I've heard rave reviews of this stuff that is flavored with hibiscus and hops (don't know which ones) so I'm going to give it another chance one day.


well i bought all the Fuggle my local brew shop had which was 8 oz. I was thinking a 2 gallon batch with that 8 oz of pellets. How long are you thinking i should boil them?

loveofrose
01-08-2014, 07:59 PM
In my opinion, Vikings Blod just tastes like sadness, disappointment, and buyers remorse. Making your own hibiscus hopped mead is the only way to go. In fact, Fuggles is exactly what I would use!

I may be biased. I did make a beer called Fuggle Yes! because I love them so much...

McJeff
01-08-2014, 08:10 PM
In my opinion, Vikings Blod just tastes like sadness, disappointment, and buyers remorse. Making your own hibiscus hopped mead is the only way to go. In fact, Fuggles is exactly what I would use!

I may be biased. I did make a beer called Fuggle Yes! because I love them so much...

what are your thoughts on 8 oz of Fuggle in a 2 gallon batch of traditional mead? Longer than a 15min boil?

mannye
01-08-2014, 09:26 PM
what are your thoughts on 8 oz of Fuggle in a 2 gallon batch of traditional mead? Longer than a 15min boil?

I wouldn't go longer than that. In a one hour boil I would use them at the end. You will be surprised how much aroma you will get out of them. My favorite was always Hallertau. Fruity!

That should be fine for a 2 gallon batch...but then again ALL of my hop experience is with beer. None with mead. So...grain of salt.

Nice to know it wasn't just my imagination on the Viking Blod!

McJeff
01-08-2014, 09:36 PM
I wouldn't go longer than that. In a one hour boil I would use them at the end. You will be surprised how much aroma you will get out of them. My favorite was always Hallertau. Fruity!

That should be fine for a 2 gallon batch...but then again ALL of my hop experience is with beer. None with mead. So...grain of salt.

Nice to know it wasn't just my imagination on the Viking Blod!

Im too new with boiling hops. But "an hour boil"?"use them at the end"?

BigBossMan
01-08-2014, 10:12 PM
Im too new with boiling hops. But "an hour boil"?"use them at the end"?

The longer you boil hops, the more you extract the bitterness quality from them and drive away their aroma properties. You can also mix and match. Select one hop for its bittering properties and one for its aromatic properties.

If I boiled 1oz of citra for an hour, I would extract all of its bittering properties and benefit from almost none of its aromatics. If I only boiled it for 30 mins, then I would be at about 50/50 for bitterness and aroma. 15 mins would be about 25/75 bitterness/aroma.

Here is a guide to the different hop varieties.

http://www.homebrewstuff.com/hop-profiles

Citra is a good dual purpose hop. Very fruity/citrusy.

loveofrose
01-08-2014, 10:15 PM
what are your thoughts on 8 oz of Fuggle in a 2 gallon batch of traditional mead? Longer than a 15min boil?

Wow. I personally wouldn't do that. That would give 219 IBU (International Bittering Units). Most IPAs are less than half that! I would keep the IBUs in the 10-20 range for a traditional mead. Too much and you won't taste any honey.

Hops are used in beer to balance out the malty sweetness. So the more sweet the beer/mead, the more IBUs you need to balance out the sweetness.
For example (Assuming 2 gallons):
1 oz Fuggles for 15 minutes = 27 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 10 minutes = 20 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 5 minutes = 11 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 1 minutes = 2 IBU

27 IBUs would be fine for a mead with a FG of say 1.02, but a FG of 1.000 would be better with 11 IBUs.

You can also dry hop if you just want aroma and no bitterness. It really depends on what you want in your mead!

BigBossMan
01-08-2014, 10:47 PM
what are your thoughts on 8 oz of Fuggle in a 2 gallon batch of traditional mead? Longer than a 15min boil?

Also, how much water will you be boiling it in? I'm assuming you'll be boiling the water first and then adding the honey after it cools down some. Entering in 2 gallons of water and 4 lbs of honey in my beer making program along with 8 ounces of Fuggles for a 15 min boil gives you 132.21 IBUs (International Bittering Units). That is insanely bitter. Most hoppy India Pale Ales are in the range of 40-60 IBUs. Even an Imperial IPA tops out at 120 IBUs.

BigBossMan
01-08-2014, 10:49 PM
Wow. I personally wouldn't do that. That would give 219 IBU (International Bittering Units). Most IPAs are less than half that! I would keep the IBUs in the 10-20 range for a traditional mead. Too much and you won't taste any honey.

Hops are used in beer to balance out the malty sweetness. So the more sweet the beer/mead, the more IBUs you need to balance out the sweetness.
For example (Assuming 2 gallons):
1 oz Fuggles for 15 minutes = 27 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 10 minutes = 20 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 5 minutes = 11 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 1 minutes = 2 IBU

27 IBUs would be fine for a mead with a FG of say 1.02, but a FG of 1.000 would be better with 11 IBUs.

You can also dry hop if you just want aroma and no bitterness. It really depends on what you want in your mead!

Beat me to it. That's what I get for walking away from my desk in mid-post.

skunkboy
01-08-2014, 11:06 PM
Also, how much water will you be boiling it in? I'm assuming you'll be boiling the water first and then adding the honey after it cools down some. Entering in 2 gallons of water and 4 lbs of honey in my beer making program along with 8 ounces of Fuggles for a 15 min boil gives you 132.21 IBUs (International Bittering Units). That is insanely bitter. Most hoppy India Pale Ales are in the range of 40-60 IBUs. Even an Imperial IPA tops out at 120 IBUs.

I think the theoretical limit on IBU's is something like 100

As reference material : http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/there-limit-ibus-you-can-get-wort-273482/

mannye
01-08-2014, 11:07 PM
What? Wait. Lemme see here.....

Oh yeah. I used two oz in the boil for bittering and 2 for aroma. But I always used flowers never pellets.


Sent from my galafreyan transdimensional communicator 100 years from now. G

kuri
01-08-2014, 11:09 PM
I've gone as high as 216g of hops in an Imperial IPA and been perfectly happy with that amount, though it was on the edge. The OG was 1.081 and the FG 1.011. Only 20g were boiled for an hour. The rest were added in equal portions with 20, 10, 5 and 1 minute(s) left in the boil. However, that was in a 5 gallon batch. Your 8 oz. of Fuggles in 2 gallons is over 2.5 times this hopping rate. Plus, you are thinking of boiling the hops in water rather than in a high gravity wort, which means the IBU extraction rate will likely be much higher. Add to that the fact that the underlying mead flavor is much more subtle than a beer flavor would be and I think that you are asking for disaster by adding a full 8 ounces. I think you will be better off -- especially if this is your first time adding hops to a mead -- to go with 1 ounce boiled for a short amount of time (10 to 15 minutes).

skunkboy
01-08-2014, 11:09 PM
Actually even dry hopping gives you some bitterness, just not as much as boiling the same hops for 5 to 60 minutes.

Bone dry mead and hop bitterness sounds like something you might want to do a 1 gallon batch of to test first.

I've had hopped coffee mead, and that was so oddly bitter in was basically undrinkable, even by my fellow mead drinkers who like coffee...

McJeff
01-08-2014, 11:12 PM
Wow. I personally wouldn't do that. That would give 219 IBU (International Bittering Units). Most IPAs are less than half that! I would keep the IBUs in the 10-20 range for a traditional mead. Too much and you won't taste any honey.

Hops are used in beer to balance out the malty sweetness. So the more sweet the beer/mead, the more IBUs you need to balance out the sweetness.
For example (Assuming 2 gallons):
1 oz Fuggles for 15 minutes = 27 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 10 minutes = 20 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 5 minutes = 11 IBU
1 oz Fuggles for 1 minutes = 2 IBU

27 IBUs would be fine for a mead with a FG of say 1.02, but a FG of 1.000 would be better with 11 IBUs.

You can also dry hop if you just want aroma and no bitterness. It really depends on what you want in your mead!

hahah omg glad I asked. But really one oz for a 2gallon batch will do it? I had planed on using half the water to boil in

BigBossMan
01-08-2014, 11:16 PM
I think the theoretical limit on IBU's is something like 100

As reference material : http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/there-limit-ibus-you-can-get-wort-273482/

Yea, they've been arguing about the limits being from 85-120 for a while. It's like listening to people go on about Global Warming. :D

McJeff
01-08-2014, 11:16 PM
Hmm maybe ill dry hop another oz for aroma. I really need to find a book to read up on.

McJeff
01-08-2014, 11:22 PM
Ok this seems like another dumb question but I need to ask it. If the pellets desolve into the liquid how do I take em out after 1-2 weeks?

BigBossMan
01-08-2014, 11:43 PM
Ok this seems like another dumb question but I need to ask it. If the pellets desolve into the liquid how do I take em out after 1-2 weeks?

If your container has a wide enough mouth, I would use a muslin/mesh hops bag and just fish it out when I'm done. Boil the bag first to sterilize it.

McJeff
01-09-2014, 09:47 AM
If your container has a wide enough mouth, I would use a muslin/mesh hops bag and just fish it out when I'm done. Boil the bag first to sterilize it.

good call, ill use my bucket to make it easy

McJeff
01-09-2014, 08:19 PM
well i had enough honey for a 3 gallon batch so this is what i did....

3gallons of water(touch replaced after boil)
..... i assumed i was suppose to use the "tea water" from the boil
11lbs honey
boiled 1oz US Fuggle for 15mins
1oz dry US Fuggle

waiting for the water to cool down and ill pitch D47. we will see.

BigBossMan
01-09-2014, 08:33 PM
I'll be interested to know how this turns out.

McJeff
01-09-2014, 09:16 PM
I'll be interested to know how this turns out.

Me also!

Friggin message too short crap

McJeff
01-09-2014, 10:52 PM
Fuggle def has a veggie taste to it. At least the tea did. Kinda like coliflower

BigBossMan
01-09-2014, 10:57 PM
Fuggle def has a veggie taste to it. At least the tea did. Kinda like coliflower

Almost any hop tea is a hard thing to take. I've always thought Fuggles were earthy. Amarillo, Citra and Simcoe are my favorites.

McJeff
01-10-2014, 09:54 AM
Almost any hop tea is a hard thing to take. I've always thought Fuggles were earthy. Amarillo, Citra and Simcoe are my favorites.


for future experiments is there a website that lists hops that also has a brief description?

Marshmallow Blue
01-10-2014, 10:07 AM
for future experiments is there a website that lists hops that also has a brief description?

Behold

http://hopschart.com/images/hopschart_render.jpg

Bob1016
01-10-2014, 11:34 AM
Amarillo, Citra and Simcoe are my favorites.
And nothing beats that combo for "American" style ales!

McJeff
01-10-2014, 05:25 PM
Behold

http://hopschart.com/images/hopschart_render.jpg

brilliant!

McJeff
01-10-2014, 08:08 PM
What are people's thoughts on letting the hops go two weeks. It already has a strong(but not bad) flavor, so I was wondering if one week would be fine.

McJeff
01-11-2014, 09:55 PM
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm251/yeoson/70B441BC-78BB-4A3F-BB21-4C5E73916F1E_zpsgzheu6ae.jpg

i ended up adding 3lbs of honey, cuz i had a brain fart and this is a 4 gallon batch and not a 3 gallon. but oh it smells yummy

McJeff
01-12-2014, 09:33 AM
ive been reading that hops flavor tends to fade rather quickly, should i leave the hops in longer?

Marshmallow Blue
01-13-2014, 11:16 AM
I listened to a conference by Vinnie form Russian River (maker of Pliny the Elder) and he said something like 9 days is when you get diminishing returns on dry hopping. No more than 12 days, but 9-12 is where you wanna bottle.

McJeff
01-13-2014, 11:41 AM
umm was i not suppose to use the hops i had boil and just used the water?