• PATRONS: Did you know we've a chat function for you now? Look to the bottom of the screen, you can chat, set up rooms, talk to each other individually or in groups! Click 'Chat' at the right side of the chat window to open the chat up.
  • Love Gotmead and want to see it grow? Then consider supporting the site and becoming a Patron! If you're logged in, click on your username to the right of the menu to see how as little as $30/year can get you access to the patron areas and the patron Facebook group and to support Gotmead!
  • We now have a Patron-exclusive Facebook group! Patrons my join at The Gotmead Patron Group. You MUST answer the questions, providing your Patron membership, when you request to join so I can verify your Patron membership. If the questions aren't answered, the request will be turned down.

Airlock water Evaporated......may have saved it.

Barrel Char Wood Products

BBarry

NewBee
Registered Member
Aug 24, 2014
6
0
0
I started my mead back in May. This is my first batch every.

The way i made them was in a 1 gallon milk jug and 2 2L coke bottles with a tube into a glass of water.

I checked on the mead 30 minutes ago and noticed all the water in each cup had evaporated. I smell checked and taste tested each and none of the 3 bottles smelled or tasted bad. All 3 had the faint smell of alcohol so i am hopeful.

I added 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1/2 teaspoon of yeast to each per a friend who has experience in mead making.

I re-sealed each jug, replaced the tubes in water, and returned each jug into the closet wear i was keeping them.

Has this happened to anyone before?

Have you been able to save the mead?

I create it this way because this is the first time i've made mead. If this works then i may invest in a legit set with the ability to check alcohol percentages.
 

fatbloke

good egg/snappy dresser.....
GotMead Patron
If you don't pay attention to the water in the airlock (irrespective of type), then it's gonna evaporate (the hotter your climate generally, the quicker etc). If you sulphite the mead(s) with the appropriate amount (one campden tablet per gallon usually - so a half in the 2litre size etc), then fill the airlock etc, it should be fine.

And keep an eye on the water levels........
 

BBarry

NewBee
Registered Member
Aug 24, 2014
6
0
0
If you sulphite the mead(s) with the appropriate amount (one campden tablet per gallon usually - so a half in the 2litre size etc), then fill the airlock etc, it should be fine.

I didn't use any campden.

I live in Florida so it's blazing hot right now. It's always humid which makes everything worse.
 

mannye

Administrator
Administrator
Moderator
Oct 10, 2012
4,167
25
38
57
Miami Beach, FL
Hey Barry. Where in Florida are you? I'm in Miami Beach.


Sent from my galafreyan transdimensional communicator 100 years from now. G
 

Chevette Girl

All around BAD EXAMPLE
Moderator
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Apr 27, 2010
8,443
53
48
Ottawa, ON
Did your friend explain why they suggested adding sugar and yeast?

...my suspicion on why you might want to do that would be to get a little fermentation going to produce some CO2 to protect the mead. I've done it myself when I thought something was going weird with a low-alcohol batch, hoping that the CO2 or the killer yeast would take care of the problem. It didn't work so I hit it with campden tablets anyway (those are really cheap, by the way, and a good thing to keep in your meadmaking toolkit next to the hydrometer you'll want to get if these turned out OK.

But generally if it smells OK it probably is. The biggest risk I run here with dry airlocks is fruit fly infiltration... I should look into glycerine myself, most drugstores carry it.
 

EJM3

Honey Master
Registered Member
Nov 21, 2013
1,015
3
38
50
The Boozevarian Village of Leavenworth WA
I am going to be ordering some Propylene Glycol from Amazon in the next week or so to add to my bulk aging airlocks. Nothing should really be "bad" from open airlocks other than Oxidation, sounds like you missed that bullet though. But please do get some "S" bend airlocks, as well as the Hydrometer for your tool kit.

My basics kit consists of: 10 x "S" bend airlocks, 10 x three piece airlocks, 12 x #6.5 drilled bungs, 5 x #6 drilled bungs, 3 x #7 drilled bungs, 1 x #10 drilled bung, 2 x universal glass carboy bungs, 3 x #6 solid bung, 3 x #6.5 solid bung, 1 x #7 solid bung, hydrometer, graduated cylinder/test jar (for using the hydrometer), 1 x racking cane with clip, 1 x orange carboy cap (for racking), 20' of tubing cut to size I need, and Vodka for a sterilizing fluid, with various syringes to use with the Vodka.


Just be sure to read, and re-read (as many times as needed!) the NewBee guide. I personally downloaded a copy and have read/re-read, and marked and annotated the crap out of mine.

The above collection of equipment has been over a year and a half in the making. So no rushing is needed for anything other than 3 or 4 of bungs and "S" airlocks with a hydrometer and test jar/cylinder...

Just my 2¢ worth.. >;}
 

BBarry

NewBee
Registered Member
Aug 24, 2014
6
0
0
Did your friend explain why they suggested adding sugar and yeast?

...my suspicion on why you might want to do that would be to get a little fermentation going to produce some CO2 to protect the mead. I've done it myself when I thought something was going weird with a low-alcohol batch, hoping that the CO2 or the killer yeast would take care of the problem. It didn't work so I hit it with campden tablets anyway (those are really cheap, by the way, and a good thing to keep in your meadmaking toolkit next to the hydrometer you'll want to get if these turned out OK.

But generally if it smells OK it probably is. The biggest risk I run here with dry airlocks is fruit fly infiltration... I should look into glycerine myself, most drugstores carry it.

That is why he suggested the extra sugar and yeast. I will add some campden today just to be safe.

The next time I make mead i will be getting an actual set up. I want to attempt to make beer as well.
Fortunately we have an actual alcohol making kit type store here or atleast that is what I've heard. We also have Swamp Head Brewery here as well which makes amazing beers. They would be a great insight into beer making.

I will also read the newbee section. I did it this way because my friend has made his mead this way, it is low tech, and all of his meads have been great.

Thank you all for the info.
 

Chevette Girl

All around BAD EXAMPLE
Moderator
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Apr 27, 2010
8,443
53
48
Ottawa, ON
Hey, you can't always complain about low-tech... I had a mead made with bread yeast take first prize in a competition. It's all about how it tastes at the end, not what happens in the middle :)

But the newbee guide is a great idea. So is a copy of Ken Schramm's Compleat Meadmaker.

Also, not to honk on your local brew store but ask folks here to vet anything you are told by them before you act on it, most of the time the folks who run brew supply stores have no idea about meads (typically they know all kinds of things about beers and kit wines though) and sometimes they suggest some very interesting things that we on Gotmead might not recommend... Unless you've got a place where they do make mead... which would be awesome. Last time I was in at mine buying beer supplies, a lady walked in and said, "I want to make mead." The guy behind the counter pointed to me and said, "Well, you're just in time, the local expert is here." Always nice to have folks who know what they don't know! It's certainly better than making stuff up based on your best guess.
 

BBarry

NewBee
Registered Member
Aug 24, 2014
6
0
0
I was talking about the brewery for advice on beer making. I haven't found the kit store yet.
 
Barrel Char Wood Products

Viking Brew Vessels - Authentic Drinking Horns