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Sammy Garbett
09-19-2016, 07:55 PM
This is my own recipe, just really I want to see what people think about it, I'm new to the mead "game" and tbh I am new to the brewing "game"
I've made this one before it was lovely, just wondering what people would think of this recipe.

Recipe
1gal demijohn
1190g honey
1000g tinned peach with juice
Third of a 5g packet of GV5 yeast
Top wit water
Half a teaspoon yeast nutrient.

Blend all the peach down with the juice, and blend in the honey.
Pour mixture into sterile demijohn.
Top with water.
Add yeast right into the demijohn
Add airlock,

Brew primary for two days then add the yeast nutrients
I normally leave for a week then test for taste and with the hydrometer. (I forgot to take note of my initial reading)
Leave for another week then stop with a Campden tablet, leaving for another week.
Rack off leaving sediment in the bottom,
Rerack for another two weeks. Bottle and enjoy.


Right guys and girls please don't shoot me down.

I need your advice and your comments.

I used to be a chef so I know how to take feedback.

Please fire away.

Peace.

WildPhil
09-19-2016, 08:00 PM
I'm four days into a peach Melomel too, my advice, don't puree the fruit. I did and am regretting it! Slice them up, freeze and thaw and put them in a fermenting bag. I also think some of the more experienced heads are going to tell you to just use the whole pack of yeast. They will definitely guide you the right way though.

Sammy Garbett
09-19-2016, 08:06 PM
Thanks buddy, ok so the amounts of honey then isn't wrong or anything? I have been worried because of seeing people who are adding massive amounts of honey??

Also what's the advantage of brewing for such long times that I have seen as well, does the amount of honey/yeast equal more time to brew without it becoming massively dry? Or am I just missing something??

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 12:27 PM
That amount of honey should yield around 12% abv.

I would use the whole packet of yeast to avoid a long lag time for your fermentation. No need to give wild yeast a chance to get a foothold. Only saves a few $ anyway.

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 01:21 PM
That amount of honey should yield around 12% abv.

I would use the whole packet of yeast to avoid a long lag time for your fermentation. No need to give wild yeast a chance to get a foothold. Only saves a few $ anyway.
Ok thanks buddy, how did you work this out if you don't mind me asking? Something I would like to know for future.

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 01:23 PM
http://meadcalc.freevar.com/

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 01:25 PM
Just put in your numbers and see what comes out. I didn't actually input everything it is just a gut feeling based on past batches.
The sugar content of the tinned peaches will be tough to figure out and therefore the exact potential ABV will be suspect.

Do you have a hydrometer?

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 03:36 PM
Yea man, I forgot to record the batch before the yeast in the beginning but I measured last night after 9 days and it is at 5%

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 03:38 PM
Right on. Did you use the whole packet of yeast?

What temperature are you fermenting at?

I just put your recipe contents into the calculator and assuming you are talking about a 4.54l gallon I got a starting potential ABV of 11.7%.

The Gervin yeast marks you as a Brit. Or am I way off on this one?

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 03:54 PM
Nah I split one packet between three 1gal demijohn.
I am fermenting at about 12/13c

Yea I am a Brit haha your right.
I measured last night like I said. If I leave to get stronger won't that just dry it out? Then back sweeten?

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 04:05 PM
http://meadadvocate.org/tools/travis/yan-calculator-tools/add-brix/

This helps figure out your food additions for yeast. I would say that a melomel such as yours would likely benifit from 200 ppm YAN.

If Fermaid O is an option then I would look into the TONSA protocol.

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 04:07 PM
Yeah don't try to stop an active ferment could easily lead to bottle bombs.

Finish up dry then wait until the SG stays stable for a couple weeks. Then stabilize and backsweeten as requires.

Remember go less sweet than you really want. Age generally increases perceived sweetness.

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 04:20 PM
Thanks a lot buddy, now the question is how to know when the fermentation has come a stop naturally. I do appologise about the questions. Very new to this, thanks for the help more importantly.

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 04:23 PM
Generally if you have a stable gravity for 2 weeks then you are pretty safe to rack to secondary.

I have found that most of my meads l will drop sediment in secondary for 3-6 months without any fining agents.
Your results may vary.

This is when I would rack onto a stabilizer and then backsweeten.

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 04:30 PM
http://meadadvocate.org/tools/travis/yan-calculator-tools/add-brix/

This helps figure out your food additions for yeast. I would say that a melomel such as yours would likely benifit from 200 ppm YAN.

If Fermaid O is an option then I would look into the TONSA protocol.

I am sorry buddy but a lot of this went over my head here haha. Care to explain the TONSA part the 200ppm and fermaid o haha I am sorry buddy for the questions.

Food additionals for yeast meaning energisers and stuff?

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 04:38 PM
YAN =Yeast Assimable Nitrogen

Yes it is enigizer/nutrient.
Fermaid K
Fermaid O
DAP (DIammonium Phosphate)

Are all types of nutrients. These have well known and documented concentration of Nitrogen and/or micronutrients.
This calculator helps you to manage yeast nutrition with these and other nutrient/energizer. It uses a staggered feeding schedule based on the sugar breaks. Which can be figured using your hydrometer.


The problem with a generic nutrient/energizer is knowing the concentration of the nitrogen/micronutrients. This makes it hard to be precise.



Search the form. It takes awhile to get up to speed.

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 04:41 PM
http://www.meadmaderight.com/

This is a link to the TONSA protocol that was developed in America using exclusively Fermaid O.

The developer is at the forefront of mead making worldwide.

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 04:50 PM
Yea man, there is a lot to take in. A lot of useful links coming through though buddy. Keep them at hand and use them at my disposal.

Is nutrients a "need"

Racking into a stabiliser... So taking the secondary and re-racking into another carboy then stabilising?

hendenburg2
09-20-2016, 04:51 PM
I am sorry buddy but a lot of this went over my head here haha. Care to explain the TONSA part the 200ppm and fermaid o haha I am sorry buddy for the questions.

Food additionals for yeast meaning energisers and stuff?

Honey is very low in nutrients, since it's mainly carbohydrates (It's really just a super-saturated sugar solution). If yeasts do not have the required nutrients, mainly phosphorous- and nitrogen-based compounds, they can not build strong cell walls, which limits their ability to reproduce and lowers their tolerance against stresses like alcohols and pH. If you don't add any nutrients whatsoever, you can end up with a stuck fermentation, where the yeast basically give up the ghost. The most common nutrient is Diammonium Phosphate (DAP, a white crystalline powder), but it's basically like taking a Vitamin C instead of a multivitamin, so it's not the most useful. There are yeast nutrient mixes that you can buy (such as Fermaid O), or, you can take a teaspoon or two of dry bread yeast and microwave the heck out of it to kill the remaining live cells. The living yeast will cannibalize the the dead ones.

TOSNA itself is a specific protocol adding certain specific nutrients. Basically, at pitcher, 1 day, 2 days, 3 days, and 1 week (or you reach 1/3 of your OG, which ever first), you add a specific amount of Fermaid O

I was originally going to speculate that you might not need yeast nutrient if you are including peaches, since they could have some of the requisite nutrients, but my quick research found that you can risk H2S (hydrogen sulfide, aka rotten egg smell) formation if you don't use enough nutrient, though this was for a straight peach wine (no grapes or honey). Reference: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=352496

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 04:55 PM
Yea man, there is a lot to take in. A lot of useful links coming through though buddy. Keep them at hand and use them at my disposal.

Is nutrients a "need"

Racking into a stabiliser... So taking the secondary and re-racking into another carboy then stabilising?
Yes I generally dissolve the stabilizer into water and the siphon the mead from the secondary on top of it in another carboy and gently mix.

There is good discussion about stabilization in previous posts. Theses posts were written by people with waaay more experience and knowledge than I.

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 05:29 PM
Thanks that is loads of information to take in, this is brilliant. So fermaid o is a good one to use on that system of day 1 day 3 and a week?

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 05:32 PM
Just follow the mead made right website directions.


I understand that Fermaid O can be tough to locate on your side of the pond. Just search for
" Fermaid O Europe" on this forum. People were talking about it awhile ago.


I personally am going to be ordering some fermaid O here shortly for my fall brewing season. It will be my first time using it.

Sammy Garbett
09-20-2016, 05:38 PM
Just follow the mead made right website directions.


I understand that Fermaid O can be tough to locate on your side of the pond. Just search for
" Fermaid O Europe" on this forum. People were talking about it awhile ago.


I personally am going to be ordering some fermaid O here shortly for my fall brewing season. It will be my first time using it.
Nice one thanks dude. Yea I am going to look at purchasing some over here. If not the next best thing. Has anyone or yourself looked at a "starter jar" of yeast water and sugars? To keep themselves goong with one type of yeast?

Farmboyc
09-20-2016, 05:52 PM
There are people that know. I have no experience.

Should start another post for that answer.