• PATRONS: Did you know we've a chat function for you now? Look to the bottom of the screen, you can chat, set up rooms, talk to each other individually or in groups! Click 'Chat' at the right side of the chat window to open the chat up.
  • Love Gotmead and want to see it grow? Then consider supporting the site and becoming a Patron! If you're logged in, click on your username to the right of the menu to see how as little as $30/year can get you access to the patron areas and the patron Facebook group and to support Gotmead!
  • We now have a Patron-exclusive Facebook group! Patrons my join at The Gotmead Patron Group. You MUST answer the questions, providing your Patron membership, when you request to join so I can verify your Patron membership. If the questions aren't answered, the request will be turned down.

Stopping Fermentation

Barrel Char Wood Products

yabb_unknown_usr

NewBee
Registered Member
Jul 28, 2005
38
0
0
Well, it seems to have worked, the mead tastes fine and is clear of infection. it also is fermenting at a good reate. none the less i want to stop it to keep it around 12% alcohol.

speaking to the guy at the local brew shop, you can use campden tablets to do this. being the lazy bugger that i am, and knowing what campden really is already :D.....


aproximately how mush potassium metabisulfate do i need to add to 19L (4.2 gal?) of mead to make it stop fermenting? preferabley without a nasty aftertase!


and thank you to all that have already helped me.
 

Oskaar

Got Mead Partner
Administrator
Dec 26, 2004
7,874
8
0
34
The OC
Well, generally the rule of thumb is 1 tablet per gallon. I'd check with your LHBS guy and see what the manufacturer's recommended dosage is. It usually lies somewhere in between 50 - 100 ppm of sulfite to do the job.

Cheers,

Oskaar
 

yabb_unknown_usr

NewBee
Registered Member
Jul 28, 2005
38
0
0
seeing as how i don't know how to measure ppm in somthing like mead, being a student kinda makes the lab work suffer, eh?

the Campden tablets that were for sale there said 1-2 per gallon to sanatize the must.

estimating aprox 1-1.5g per tablet that works out to be between (at the outside) 6.3grams for one tablet per gallon(at 1.5 grams per tablet) or 12.6grams per 2 tablets per gallon.



i worked this out a while ago, but i wanted to know if anyone had some special advice.
 

GntlKnght

NewBee
Registered Member
Jan 9, 2004
265
1
0
60
The best information I could find when googling Potassium Metabisulphite is to use 3/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.
 

JamesP

Senior Member
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Dec 3, 2003
654
1
18
Brisbane Australia
(For those not pursuing the "natural" mead-making methods)

From Winemaker magazine http://www.winemakermag.com/feature/21.html
As a rule of thumb, always maintain the free SO2 concentration between 25 and 50 mg/L throughout the winemaking process, including bottling. The amount depends on how much sulfite you want and on the quality of the grapes. When making wine from grapes, target a level of 50 mg/L at crushing, or up to 100 mg/L if you suspect any problem, such as moldy grapes.

So 25 to 50 mg/L (or whatever that is in milligrams per Pound).

I've seen 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons (19 Litres)
 

Jmattioli

Senior Member
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Andy H said:
Well, it seems to have worked, the mead tastes fine and is clear of infection. it also is fermenting at a good reate. none the less i want to stop it to keep it around 12% alcohol.

speaking to the guy at the local brew shop, you can use campden tablets to do this. being the lazy bugger that i am, and knowing what campden really is already :D.....


aproximately how mush potassium metabisulfate do i need to add to 19L (4.2 gal?) of mead to make it stop fermenting? preferabley without a nasty aftertase!


and thank you to all that have already helped me.

Andy

I think there must be some confusion. To stop fermentation the primary ingredient is Potassium Sorbate, not sulfite. Potasium Sulfite should also be used in case of any bacteria and it does help to slow down fermation but it is the purpose of the Sorbate to prevent renewed fermentation , not the sulfite. After 24 hours with sulfite alone the must would be fermentable again but not with the addition of the Sorbate. Sorbate calls for 1/4t or 1/2t per gallon depending on the maufacturer. Some manufacturers make a more dense concentration than others.

Joe
 

yabb_unknown_usr

NewBee
Registered Member
Jul 28, 2005
38
0
0
well, thank you for the info, that's exactly what i needed to know!


I've taken a look at my primary brew shop, and they don't carry it (Blasphemy!) so i'm going to check out the 'make your own wine' place near my school. hopefully they'll have it.



I've also heard of checking drug stores for it (Pharmacy, whatever...) as one of the people i know from Great Brittain says they carry that there.


other ideas for sources?
 

yabb_unknown_usr

NewBee
Registered Member
Jul 28, 2005
38
0
0
I found the Sorbate!!!, hidden in a back corner of the second wine shop next to some dried elderberries.


now the directions on the packet say 1/2 tsp to prevent re-fermentation.

how much to stop an active fermentation do you think i would need?
 

Jmattioli

Senior Member
Lifetime GotMead Patron
The best way to stop it is to put carboy with the mead in a really cold place first like a refrigerator or out in the cold to put the yeast to sleep on the bottom. 1 day will usually do. It will actually start clearing and the yeast will come out of suspension to the bottom. Now rack it into a new carboy with 1/2t Sorbate per gallon (2 1/8 t) and 3/8 t total Potassium Sulfite. Dissolve the Sorbate and Sulfite in 1/2 cup warm water first and pour in new carboy before racking so the racking will help mix it. Try not to get the lees when you rack. You can stir it a bit also if you have one to fit in carboy. Within a week, it should be clearing well and about stopped completely. The reason for using the cold to bring the yeast out of nsuspension is because Sorbate is not designed to actually stop a vigorous fermentation but to prevent renewed fermentation. If you don't cold stabilize first, it will take longer to stop.
Joe
 
Barrel Char Wood Products

Viking Brew Vessels - Authentic Drinking Horns