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what yeast should I buy?

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j.postema

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Oct 19, 2008
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Hi all,

At this forum I see that a lot of yeast products from Lalvin are mentioned but it seems that these products are not sold here in Holland at the diy-brewing stores.

I was thinking to buy for instance K1-V1116, QA23, DV10 or T73 because they don't need high nutrient levels compared to other yeasts, but the problem is that I can't find these products here.

Have you any hints on how to find the right yeast? Or should I just rely on the advice of the salesman?
 
Your salesman may have good advice to share, but if so, he should be able to provide you with some simple answers to question about the yeast such as temperature tolerance, nutrient requirements, and ester production. If he gets a funny look on his face when you ask, you should seek advice from someone else.

Brouwland has a wide selection of yeast, and they have the characteristics of many of them listed.

The Oenoferm Chart has details for their strains available.

Between this info and suggestions from GotMeaders over there, hopefully you will be able to choose one that will work great.

Good luck!
Medsen
 
hi Medsen,

thanks for your reply! I checked the websites and I think I found some suitable yeasts.

Yesterday I found some yeast in the refrigerator, my dad uses this for his wines. It is an general wine yeast that has a temperature range from 5 to 30 degrees Celcius, It's Alcohol Tolerance Level is 18%.

I would like to make a new batch of mead (it will be a small batch of +/- 5 liter) that consist of only water, honey and yeast. I think I will use buckwheat honey because it doesn't require much nutrients to be added. I'm still wondering whether or not I can just use the above described yeast, or should I go for a new package of yeast from an online store? Actually I don't want a yeast that produces a lot of sulfur but even if I order the yeast online I don't know how much sulfur will be produced.

Do you have any ideas? Should I just try this yeast?
 
As the artist formerly known as Oskaar might say, "Take a chance... Custer* did."

If you have some yeast at home, then give it a try and see. If you make a starter with it to get the yeast population up, it may help get it done more quickly. Keep smelling it, and if you notice any hint of sulfur odor, you can take another packet of yeast and boil it in a small amount of water, and when cooled, pitch that in to provide nutrition for the active yeast. Then aerate it well. This way you are not adding nutrient chemicals and should be able to keep the sulfur away.

I hope that helps.
Medsen

* If you don't know much American History, do a google search on General George Custer and read about the Little Big Horn. ;)
 
Hello, j.!!

One thing I'd like to add to Medsen's post. You don't need to use more wine yeast as the nutrient addition that Medsen suggests. You can make the same "yeast-based nutrient" from baker's yeast, which is often more widely available.

Oh, and don't let Custer's experience influence your risk taking... :rolleyes:
 
Hi all,

thanks for your replies! Yesterday I made a new batch with the general-wine yeast... If I'm right I can just kill (bread) yeast by cooking it and add this to the wort as a nutrient?

The wort consists of wild flower honey (+/- 800 grams), 3 liters of tap water plus 3 cutted raisins. If necessary, I will add some more raisins and dead yeast. The starting gravity was about 1.060 (was difficult to read because of foam). I think I need to add some extra honey later on. I shaked the carboy in order to aerate the must.

I was wondering whether or not to protect the must from light? (the carboy is transparent)
 
j.postema said:
Hi all,

thanks for your replies! Yesterday I made a new batch with the general-wine yeast... If I'm right I can just kill (bread) yeast by cooking it and add this to the wort as a nutrient?

The wort consists of wild flower honey (+/- 800 grams), 3 liters of tap water plus 3 cutted raisins. If necessary, I will add some more raisins and dead yeast. The starting gravity was about 1.060 (was difficult to read because of foam). I think I need to add some extra honey later on. I shaked the carboy in order to aerate the must.

I was wondering whether or not to protect the must from light? (the carboy is transparent)
Click to expand...

Yes, killing the bread yeast by boiling will transform it into a nutrient for the living yeast in your must.

It is also good to keep the mead away from direct sunlight. The UV in sunlight (capable of passing through clear glass) can promote premature oxidation of the mead, resulting in flavors that are usually not good.
 
Hi,

Thanks again for your anwers! I don't want a thin - low alcohol mead, so I bought another jar of honey and added 500 grams of honey and 0,5 liter of water. In total the batch contains about 3,5 - 4 liter of water and about 1,5 kg of honey. Gravity is about 1.092. I also added the dead yeast.
 
Medsen Fey said:
The artist formerly known as Oskaar
Click to expand...

Yeah, I miss that guy... looked just like Smeagol the cellar rat. Then Oskaar got famous, went all hippity hop on us then bailed. Almost immediately this PBakulic hijacks Oskaar's posts as his own, puts up an avatar that would scare all but the most nearsighted redheads then breaches GotMead security during the transition. I understand he now has near unlimited power on the site and is presumptuous enough to give people advice on Mead. The Nerve of some people.

Cheers,
Jered Talbot
(Wrathwilde)
 
Last edited:
Ha ha ha ha, he's working for me now. I have other uses for him.
 
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