I did swirl with the hydrometer to get rid of the bubles but more kept coming.
I should have only added the 1/2 packet of yeast. But then again, I didn't know if the packet was even alive after 2.5 years after the expiration date so I added the whole packet. next time I will skimp on the yeast.
If the hydrometer came in a plastic sleeve tube, what you can do, is remove the hydrometer, sanitise the inside of the tube, then take a sample with a sanitised turkey baster, or wine thief, or similar, fill the tube about 2/3rds with the must, put the cap(s) back on the tube and shake the hell out of it. That should de-gas enough for you to get a reasonably accurate reading when you put the hydrometer into the tube. That's how the instructions for my hydrometer said to test. I don't, I use a 100ml graduated sample tube, but using the plastic tube that the hydrometer came in, would actually use smaller samples. I'd just have to make sure that the tube sits, well is held sitting, on a level surface.
As for skimping on the yeast ? Normal 5 gramme sized home brew packs of yeast contain enough for batches up to 5 gallons. There's nothing to be gained by skimping, as it's quite hard to keep a part pack sealed and dry enough not to get contaminated or otherwise spoiled, unless you intend using the rest within a day or two.
As for the pack being well out of date ? Use by and other date coding methods are just legal arse covering methods used by "food" manufacturers, to prevent themselves getting sued to hell and back. They know that the packaging will stay in good condition for X amount of months or years. Plus they know the chemical make up of the product and the likelihood of how long it should last. I often use packs of yeast out of date, but to confirm that they're still Ok, I just make a starter and if it does it's rehydration thing and shows some bubbling etc in the starter, I can then presume that it should be fine for fermenting the full batch of whatever.
I would like to know the alcohol level that I would achieve in the end though.
Is there any way to find out without knowing OG?
There are various lists, spread sheet tables, etc that float around (the one here is the mead calculator). You can input the values of the weight of honey, water volume, etc etc and they will chuck out an answer. The accuracy of the answer would still be subject to a tolerance i.e. when these type calculators were first produced, they had to make various assumptions about the materials used, like, for example, the sugar content of honey.
Now that's one big variable that can't be ignored. Which is why one of the easiest ways of working out the strength of a brew is the OG - FG = X gravity point drop. that gravity point drop will convert directly to a % ABV figure (I use the
table that Bob, who runs Winesathome over here, produced (it's the one listed as "Alcohol calculation chart" it's in .xls format, but I use open office to view it) - it seems that it's relatively accurate. which helps as most of us can't afford the kind of hardware that industry or more importantly, the local taxation authorities can muster.....)
