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Thread: 1st ever mead

  1. Default 1st ever mead

    Hi all still not really sure on how to read a hydrometer just yet wondering if anyone could help estamate final alcohol content
    MIXED HONEY/BERRY MELOMEL
    3kg beachworth honey
    3kg iorn bark honey
    500g mixed fruits (strawberry,blackberry,blue berry,red grapes) slightly mashed
    2.2g wyeast yeast nutrients
    1pk mangrove jacks mead yeast
    15L water
    Starting og was 1.095 any help would be appreciated thanks in advance ps this is my first ever mead the photos were taken on first day and 7 days later

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Spain, Europe
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    With that og around 13% ABV (https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/)

    Stir every day or every two days to rouse the lees so the dont stack in the bottom for long periods of time. Do so for a month, then stop for a week then rack.

    You'd do well in reading the newbee guide if you have not already.

    Take hydrometer readings. If you dont knoe how, there are posts that explain it and videos or articles you can find in google easily

    Edit: you are using too little fruit and too little nutrients. Dont bother adding more nutrients now, but read about SNA (staggered nutrient additions) for next time, dont follow the recommended amounts because mead is not wine or beer and needs more

  3. Default

    Ok thank you i have been reading the newbee section and every othere peace of information i can i have not been stiring it has been fermenting for 1 week is it to late to stir and if not would it hurt to ad more nutrients when stiring the lees

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    Last edited by JokersVengeance; 06-11-2017 at 08:59 PM.

  4. #4

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    You can do both
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by JokersVengeance View Post
    Ok thank you i have been reading the newbee section and every othere peace of information i can i have not been stiring it has been fermenting for 1 week is it to late to stir and if not would it hurt to ad more nutrients when stiring the lees

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    We recommend staggered nutrient addition. Not all at once but every 24 hours starting at first sign of fermentation. Most recommend spread out over 3-4 feedings depending on what yeast and approach taken.
    If you can get fermaid-k or o we recommend that. It is available in the USA and possibly Canada

    I recommend stirring 2x/day first 3 days, then once a day until fermentation is over, then 2x/week for 30 days once fermentation is over. If you leave it on the lees after fermentation the yeast can help you clean the must.

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caduseus View Post
    We recommend staggered nutrient addition. Not all at once but every 24 hours starting at first sign of fermentation. Most recommend spread out over 3-4 feedings depending on what yeast and approach taken.
    If you can get fermaid-k or o we recommend that. It is available in the USA and possibly Canada
    I am in Australia and am using wyeast its more easily available at my local brew shop


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  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Squatchy View Post
    You can do both
    Ok do you think stiring and 3g nutrients would be fine it is fermenting at a rait of 27 bubbles per min

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  8. #8

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    You'll really need to get a hydrometer reading, bubbles are not an accurate gauge by any means, but....

    I would say at this point, stir it up good like caduseus says, just try not to splash too much (to prevent oxygen from getting in the must). If you're going to do another nutrient addition, better to do it now than wait longer. Most staggered nutrient additions say the last one should be 1 week in. You won't hurt it if you're a couple days past though.

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dingurth View Post
    You'll really need to get a hydrometer reading, bubbles are not an accurate gauge by any means, but....

    I would say at this point, stir it up good like caduseus says, just try not to splash too much (to prevent oxygen from getting in the must). If you're going to do another nutrient addition, better to do it now than wait longer. Most staggered nutrient additions say the last one should be 1 week in. You won't hurt it if you're a couple days past though.
    Ok i am glad i have waited to stir so i am trying not to oxygenate just stiring up the lees correct i dont want it to turn to viniga lol

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  10. #10

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    Use fermaid-a it is meant for Australia.
    And anything recommended by LHBS for mead is never to be trusted. They know about beer and to some degree wine but with mead they are all clueless.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by JokersVengeance View Post
    Ok i am glad i have waited to stir so i am trying not to oxygenate just stiring up the lees correct i dont want it to turn to viniga lol

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    Correct. But a little splashing isn't the end of the world. It's hard to oxygenate mead, and that's more of a concern when racking/bottling and aging.

  12. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dingurth View Post
    Correct. But a little splashing isn't the end of the world. It's hard to oxygenate mead, and that's more of a concern when racking/bottling and aging.
    Ok i am going to go for it will stir and add now thanks everyone

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  13. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JokersVengeance View Post
    Ok i am going to go for it will stir and add now thanks everyone

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    Ok stiring done with the add of 3g nutrients also fun fact was very gasy as in i was stiring slowly and it froffed over

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  14. Default

    After stiring

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  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Saratoga Springs , NY
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    Hi JokersVengeance - and welcome. Yeast in fact need oxygen to produce many of the chemicals they need both for their own cellular structure and for the chemicals they will need to metabolyze sugars into ethanol (alcohol). Any concern about ending up with vinegar is only after fermentation has ended and you are providing the alcohol with a bath of oxygen in the presence of a bacterium called acteobacter. Without this bacterium being present, vinegar is not a real possibility. Of course, there IS a possibility of oxidizing your mead but honey does not seem to be as readily oxidized as fruit and certainly during active fermentation (while there is still sugar for the yeast to gorge on) the yeast are likely to consume as much oxygen in minutes as a home mead maker is capable of incorporating without any special commercial equipment.
    Oh, and others have suggested - in wine or mead making, counting bubbles is probably as just as useful as counting the number of cars that pass a house on a main road in the city. It will provide you with about the same amount of information about how your fermentation is going with about the same amount of reliability... The only effective way to check on fermentation is to observe changes in the amount of sugar remaining and the easiest way for home wine makers to do that is with an hydrometer that measures changes in density of the liquid (pure water being less dense than water with known quantities of sugar dissolved in solution (honey) and alcohol being less dense than pure water). Since water has been given a nominal density of 1.000, so we can measure the density of water with added amounts of honey and so we can know by measurement precisely what is happening when we see (or fail to see) how this honey solution is becoming closer to the density of pure water and possibly even less dense as the amount of alcohol produced by the yeast increases until all the sugars from the honey have been converted to alcohol and carbon dioxide.

  16. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bernardsmith View Post
    Hi JokersVengeance - and welcome. Yeast in fact need oxygen to produce many of the chemicals they need both for their own cellular structure and for the chemicals they will need to metabolyze sugars into ethanol (alcohol). Any concern about ending up with vinegar is only after fermentation has ended and you are providing the alcohol with a bath of oxygen in the presence of a bacterium called acteobacter. Without this bacterium being present, vinegar is not a real possibility. Of course, there IS a possibility of oxidizing your mead but honey does not seem to be as readily oxidized as fruit and certainly during active fermentation (while there is still sugar for the yeast to gorge on) the yeast are likely to consume as much oxygen in minutes as a home mead maker is capable of incorporating without any special commercial equipment.
    Oh, and others have suggested - in wine or mead making, counting bubbles is probably as just as useful as counting the number of cars that pass a house on a main road in the city. It will provide you with about the same amount of information about how your fermentation is going with about the same amount of reliability... The only effective way to check on fermentation is to observe changes in the amount of sugar remaining and the easiest way for home wine makers to do that is with an hydrometer that measures changes in density of the liquid (pure water being less dense than water with known quantities of sugar dissolved in solution (honey) and alcohol being less dense than pure water). Since water has been given a nominal density of 1.000, so we can measure the density of water with added amounts of honey and so we can know by measurement precisely what is happening when we see (or fail to see) how this honey solution is becoming closer to the density of pure water and possibly even less dense as the amount of alcohol produced by the yeast increases until all the sugars from the honey have been converted to alcohol and carbon dioxide.
    Thank you very helpfull and the bubble cout was basicly just to let you know that it was still active ☺

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  17. #17

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    One other thing here Joker. When you asked about the last 3g of food. It's very hard to know how much YAN (yeast assimilable nitrogen) is in any given name brand of food. Most of us chose to use a certain brand because they tell us quantifiable amounts per unit. Very few, if any, of the others give us any idea of how much is in their product. So in this matter it's impossible to know how many units of YAN you are feeding your yeast. If I were going to error I would choose to overfeed than underfeed. (that is to say if you chose to use my choice of food. Being organic, if overfed it will drop out of suspension without leaving a bad taste in your mead. Other sources can, and will leave behind lasting flavors that can be distracting to say the least. DAP will leave a bad taste if not consumed by the yeast. I don't even use DAP any more, and haven't for the past 2 years. My meads are better for it too.

    Fermaid-O or Fermaid-K is best. If you rehydrate with Go-ferm it will make a huge difference as well. Unfortunately Go-ferm doesn't work it's magic with Wyeast smack packs.

    Lastly. You always want to keep your yeast stirred into suspension until you come to the place where you want things to drop out for the sake of racking. It's when yeast get buried on the bottom of your vessel that they begin to make off flavors. This won't happen if you rouse your must every few days or so.

    From looking at your honey types I'm guessing you are in Europe somewhere. Some of the others over on that side of the world can help you to find your supplements. It's easy to find here in the US. Unfortunately I cannot help you where you live.

    I forgot to say that if you take your food and mix it in a small cup of must before you add it into the vessel it will not fizz over like you have now witnessed. Any time you are going to add a powder dilute it in must or water first to avoid the eruption.
    Last edited by Squatchy; 06-12-2017 at 08:38 PM.
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  18. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Squatchy View Post
    One other thing here Joker. When you asked about the last 3g of food. It's very hard to know how much YAN (yeast assimilable nitrogen) is in any given name brand of food. Most of us chose to use a certain brand because they tell us quantifiable amounts per unit. Very few, if any, of the others give us any idea of how much is in their product. So in this matter it's impossible to know how many units of YAN you are feeding your yeast. If I were going to error I would choose to overfeed than underfeed. (that is to say if you chose to use my choice of food. Being organic, if overfed it will drop out of suspension without leaving a bad taste in your mead. Other sources can, and will leave behind lasting flavors that can be distracting to say the least. DAP will leave a bad taste if not consumed by the yeast. I don't even use DAP any more, and haven't for the past 2 years. My meads are better for it too.

    Fermaid-O or Fermaid-K is best. If you rehydrate with Go-ferm it will make a huge difference as well. Unfortunately Go-ferm doesn't work it's magic with Wyeast smack packs.

    Lastly. You always want to keep your yeast stirred into suspension until you come to the place where you want things to drop out for the sake of racking. It's when yeast get buried on the bottom of your vessel that they begin to make off flavors. This won't happen if you rouse your must every few days or so.

    From looking at your honey types I'm guessing you are in Europe somewhere. Some of the others over on that side of the world can help you to find your supplements. It's easy to find here in the US. Unfortunately I cannot help you where you live.

    I forgot to say that if you take your food and mix it in a small cup of must before you add it into the vessel it will not fizz over like you have now witnessed. Any time you are going to add a powder dilute it in must or water first to avoid the eruption.
    Lol i know that now silly mistake on my behalf and i live in 1 of Australia's little country towns i am going to speak to my friend that runs our LHBS and see if he is willing to do the foot work to stock fermaid-k/o and also goferm any other things i should ask him to stock i have a heap of mates that are keen on the idear of making mead but would like to see how it tasets before diving in so i am basically the guinea pig at the moment

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  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by JokersVengeance View Post
    Lol i know that now silly mistake on my behalf and i live in 1 of Australia's little country towns i am going to speak to my friend that runs our LHBS and see if he is willing to do the foot work to stock fermaid-k/o and also goferm any other things i should ask him to stock i have a heap of mates that are keen on the idear of making mead but would like to see how it tasets before diving in so i am basically the guinea pig at the moment

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    There's a guy named Hamish Lucas from Ozz that is on here. Try to find him. He makes nice mead and can probably help with the nutrients.
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by JokersVengeance View Post
    Lol i know that now silly mistake on my behalf and i live in 1 of Australia's little country towns i am going to speak to my friend that runs our LHBS and see if he is willing to do the foot work to stock fermaid-k/o and also goferm any other things i should ask him to stock i have a heap of mates that are keen on the idear of making mead but would like to see how it tasets before diving in so i am basically the guinea pig at the moment

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    Well, I ordered from ibrew in Australia before. They sell pretty anything you might want from lallemand: Goferm, Fermaid O, Fermaid A and plenty of yeasts, including yeasts you usually won't be able to get in small sachets since they are sold in larger quantities. Check out the site before possibly paying premium from your LHBS for something you can do with a few clicks from home. Website: www.ibrew.com.au
    There might even be a better shop in Australia. The only reason I'm suggesting this site is because I bought from there before. All I can say was that they were pretty friendly and ready to accomodate a very small order of yeast in an envelope envelope from the other side of the world
    "Shouldn’t we say wine is a mead-like beverage made with grapes substituted for the honey?" - Steve Piatz

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