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Thread: About BOMM the BASSment....

  1. Default About BOMM the BASSment....

    About to try the bomm.

    I'm in Canada, and haven't been able to get most of the proper mead nutrients for tosna Etc. I finally made an order from the US and it arrived. My Homebrew local B&M just got my order of 1388.

    I've noticed that Bray has been mixing fermaid k and dap quite a bit. I didn't want to blow the whole budget so I only ordered fermaid O, and Go ferm. I also got the potassium bicarbonate.

    Now I'm trying to find any reference I can to making a b o m m with only fermaid o. Dap is an option to, as I have that already.

    I was also planning to split the 1388 and due to one gallon batches to start. One simply show me, and another with herbs, possibly gruit Style.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction to make this with just fermaid o and possibly dap? I've been all over the Denard Brewing site, following his recipes for a while, I don't recall seeing a recipe with fermaid O only.

    Thanks!

    Btw loveofrose... If you're out there... As soon as I saw the mental BOMM I knew...
    ... I'm sure I've drank more Mead by now while mixing and mastering, then any other activity


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  2. Default

    Hmmm... Supposed to say "about to BOMM the BASSment"

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  3. #3

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    Iím currently using Fermaid O and K for all my BOMMs. The recipes on the site have been recently updated to reflect my new protocol:
    www.denardbrewing.com

    The new protocol is here:
    https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Liquid-yeast-SNA/

    In theory, you could use GoFerm in place of Fermaid K as it adds vitamins and trace nutrients. Iíve never tried it though. Let me know how it goes if you try it.

    I agree. Mixing and Mastering needs mead. Gets the creative mix going.
    Better brewing through science!

  4. #4

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    LOR, nicely written protocol with the WHYs in it is great. Having a little hard time with this math, 40 YAN/L is really 160 YAN/L but the conversion to gallons seems off at 42 gms/gal?

    Fermaid O - 40 YAN per gram/Liter; however, we are told the biological effectiveness is 4x what the YAN states. This gives us 160 g/L or 42.33 g/gallon YAN equivalent. Note: TOSNA 2.0 states the effectiveness is ~50 YAN gram/gallon. I'm sticking to the science, but that does make quick calculations easier!

  5. #5

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    Ah, I need to clarify it:
    The effectiveness is 160 YAN per gram per Liter. This equals 42.32 YAN per gram per gallon (160 YAN per gram/3.78 liters).


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    Better brewing through science!

  6. Default

    Using go-ferm to replace fermaid K - should we be going by YAN there?

    My deduction is NO - the fermaid O is providing YAN, therefore the purpose of go-ferm or K is to provide other nutrients & minerals, correct?

    Bottom line, is it a 1to1 substitution?


    PS...(In terms of mixing/mastering, you should send me a link to something you've done, loveofrose)

    PPS... My B&M just got my order of wyeast 1388 in! It gets a bit costly buying it here (at least over dry yeast) - so I'm planning on making a small starter with it, then splitting it between 2 batches... A simple show Mead, and likely a gruit, which I'm quite excited about. I was able to get most of my herbs locally, the yarrow I foraged my l myself (fresh and sun dried...)

    Maybe that's another post in itself...

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  7. #7

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    The YAN calc are way different between goferm and K. Go look at the Handbook and it will state all the metrics for each product. If you rehydrate with Go ferm and then use O your micro nutrients are taken care of. They gut load the yeast before they kill them with the O. And the yeast get the rest when you rehydrate with Goferm. So there is no shortage. This is meant to be a complete comprehensive protocol if used in tandem. There for you really need to use K at all. I have never made better mead since I switched to Goferm/O almost 3 years ago. I get in all my food in by the 1/3 break and have never one time, in 250 gallons had one stall either. I also don't bother with Bicarbs as the O buffers well enough on it's own as well. It's a myth that yeast stop at 3.3 pH. I have never seen one stall at 3.0.
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  8. Default

    What is this handbook you speak of??

    My handbook is usually going at denardbrewing.com... though I haven't had the ingredients till now!

    Actually I made a"joam" too... Though the J doesn't stand for Joe in mine it was a little different, but turned out amazing!!! Finally bottled it, around 11 mos.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by winter_hunt View Post
    What is this handbook you speak of??

    My handbook is usually going at denardbrewing.com... though I haven't had the ingredients till now!

    Actually I made a"joam" too... Though the J doesn't stand for Joe in mine it was a little different, but turned out amazing!!! Finally bottled it, around 11 mos.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    http://www.scottlab.com/pdf/ScottlabsHandbook2016.pdf

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by winter_hunt View Post
    What is this handbook you speak of??

    My handbook is usually going at denardbrewing.com... though I haven't had the ingredients till now!

    Actually I made a"joam" too... Though the J doesn't stand for Joe in mine it was a little different, but turned out amazing!!! Finally bottled it, around 11 mos.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Hello

    I just realized that I should clarify something. When I use dry yeast this is the protocol I use. Liquid yeast is different. And Bray has done all the work with 1388. So by all means follow his lead with it
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  11. Default

    Ok...
    So I can look up wyeast 1388:YAN requirements, check how much is coming from the O, and add what's left with go ferm?

    L(OR) is it feasible to replace the K in your recipes 1:1 with go ferm?


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  12. #12

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    YAN is not the issue. Fermaid O has that covered. The issue is trace nutrients and vitamins. It is possible that GoFerm is better than Fermaid K for this purpose. Iíve never tested it. I would start with a 1:1 ratio and see how it turns out. I may try this as well. Iím curious.


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    Better brewing through science!

  13. #13

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    So I have talked to Scotts labs on this. Since the inception of Go-ferm, combined with the O. There is not a deficiency of trace elements. The go ferm covers this. They don't list it as such due to process. But. They gut load the yeast that becomes O and thus they are carrying a good bit of this on board. I started using O when it first came out. I too used some K as a fraction of the first 2 feeds for this very reason. I have only used O alone for the past 2 years. I have made well over 200 gallons since and have had zero problems. I do need to say I have been using an O2 stone since then as well and I believe this also contributes to the success I have had immensely.
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  14. Default

    Here we go! I'm using OLD honey with this. I found a man who bought a farmhouse, and I bought almost 50 kilos of honey (in 1kg containers) that the beekeepers had given the previous owner over the years. I'll attach a photo!!

    Made a 1388 two litre starter 3 nights ago.

    The local spring mineral water I found was Arrowhead; at 275ppm dissolved solids.

    I'm starting with a 3 gallon / 11.5 litre BOMM. I'll probably save some starter and use it tomorrow for a 1 gallon Cyser Bomm (with Santa Cruz organic Apple cider).


    Looking forward to this... First Mead with the old honey, and first BOMM!!!

    I don't have FERMAID K, so I can't precisely follow LOR's Bomm...
    I don't know what a precise, traditional BOMM tastes like, but my first Mead tasted amazing at 12 months!!! I'm excited about this one, especially with the old honey.



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  15. #15

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    Winter, you should really start your own thread with this old honey. Is it all the same color or is there some variability? WVMJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by WVMJack View Post
    Winter, you should really start your own thread with this old honey. Is it all the same color or is there some variability? WVMJ
    Good idea! Time is short but I'll aim to do that.

    Here's the result so far; does look a bit darker, doesn't it??

    I normally add black tea to many ferments - I like the flavor and tannins - so I'm used to a dark must; however this has no additions beside the basic BOMM stuff.



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  17. Default

    Short update...

    Got busy with holidays, gaming days, composing days...
    It's all been racked...mid December I believe.
    Tasting good.

    The main Bomm is already a bit darker than the big Mead batch I started a year ago. Clearing nicely already.

    These both taste kind of "bright" - which is more like the last commercial Mead I sampled! It wasn't actually as good as my first Mead (to me), but I figured they were just aiming for "light, North American tastes".

    I do like it, and I find samples from the carboy aren't quite the same as bottled and glassed. It has a slight citrus/refreshing quality, which I like actually! Maybe it was the strong tea that I first used? Maybe some nuances of the 1388 yeast?

    Wow. Really curious to try my original recipe with this honey, but with modern techniques.

    Ok I'll have to taste more, take it's gravity, etc etc.
    stay tuned....

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