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Thread: First Time Help? Yeast nutrient?

  1. Default First Time Help? Yeast nutrient?

    So tomorrow im planning on making my first 1 gallon batch of mead. I'm planning on using 1 pomegranate and 2 mangos with 3 lbs of honey. The yeast is Lalvin D-47
    The problem is now I realise I never got my yeast nutrient. Is this an issue? Can I do this without it?
    Also, are there any other immediate issues with this recipe?

  2. #2

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    3 things.
    Rehydrate with go firm, page 7
    yeast YAN info page 36
    http://www.scottlabsltd.com/wp-conte...ada_2017FH.pdf

    That yeast needs to be kept at 62-64 degrees. Go above that and it will make tons of fusell alcohols. D21 is pretty temp friendly D47 is the most finicky.


    Read this first. 12% ABV will suit you the best
    http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthr...-for-beginners
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Default

    Yes, you need nutrient.
    Dave from New Haven County

  4. Default

    First of all, thanks for the quick reply.
    After having to wait for the Go Ferm to arrive, I haven't had much free time with the holidays, so I haven't gotten around to starting yet.
    I read your other post, and while it's very informative, I've been trying to do research for a few weeks now and am having a bit of trouble wrapping my head around all the new info I've been gathering. If I could ask a few more questions, I'd really appreciate the help.
    First off, im not sure how this affects the rest of the procedure, but I've decided to possibly add a whole peeled clementine into the mix.
    So for yeast, I'm finding some contradictory information, so to be safe I figured I should ask someone about my specific recipe. I know this seems stupid and easily researched but like I said I'm having trouble absorbing so much new info, but basically, how much of the packet should I use? Is 1/4 of the packet good?
    Moreso, when rehydrating the yeast, how much water should I be using. I've heard the water should be about 104°F. Is that correct?
    Also, I should mix the water with Go-Ferm prior to adding dry yeast, and it should be 1 gram Go-Ferm per 1 gallon water, correct? And again, I'm sure this is a dumb question, but should I stir the yeast once its added, or leave it alone for the 15 minutes?
    I'm pretty sure this next one is a pretty stupid question too, but should I take my hydrometer reading before pitching the yeast, after, or does it not matter?
    Lastly, I wanted to know if its safe to store unused Go-Ferm in a normal plastic zip lock bag?
    I can't thank you enough for any and all information you can give me. I know I'm asking a lot of basic, stupid questions here, but while I'm so excited to enter the world of mead making, I'm also terrified of screwing up my first batch! So I've been driving myself crazy for the past few weeks trying to self-teach and there's just so much information out there it's hard to keep track of what's true and what's false when you're just starting out. So, sorry again for the dumb questions, and Thanks so much for any/all help!
    Cheers

  5. Default

    Thanks so much for the quick response. I read your other post, although with all the info I've been gathering it's been hard to wrap my head around it all as a newbie.
    If you dont mind, I have a few questions.
    I'm having a bit of trouble finding solid information about one gallon batches, so I'm sorry if this sounds dumb. In regards to the Go Ferm (protect evolution), how much should I be using with the packet of yeast I mentioned? Furthermore, how much water should I be using to rehydrate?
    Thanks for the help again, and sorry for any inconvenience, but I really appreciate the help as a first timer. I'm getting lost trying to understand so much new information. Cheers!

  6. #6

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    So this is the rehydration protocol by the manufacturer themselves. Checked dosages and goferm protect evolution dosages are the same as regular goferm. Whenever you stumble upon info which is intended for larger batches you can usually just scale it down http://www.scottlabsltd.com/wp-conte..._Lallemand.pdf

    You still have quite a bit more to wrap your mind around so I wouldn't be making that mead just yet if you want to save some later headaches
    "Shouldn’t we say wine is a mead-like beverage made with grapes substituted for the honey?" - Steve Piatz

  7. #7

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    In my post I directed you to page seven for all the info on zGoferm
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  8. Default

    So, thanks again for the fast responses. I have to apologize for the sloppy, question-riddled post I left a few days ago, I know it's my responsibility to find these things out for myself, regardless of my own personal troubles making sense of it all.
    Thanks again for the links, but I guess my misunderstanding is this:
    I've been looking around and from what I understand, most people making a 1 gallon batch seem to pitch the whole 5g packet, though it's more yeast than what's necessary. So my question is, when calculating the amount of GoFerm, should I be calculating against the entire 5 grams of yeast, or only the amount of yeast that's required for 1 gallon?
    If not, then from my calculations (1 part yeast to 1.25 parts GoFerm in 20x the GoFerm's weight), if I use a whole 5 gram packet, I should rehydrate in a mix of 6.25g GoFerm and 150mL water. To me, that looks about right from what I've seen, but I really appreciate the input from more experienced mead makers.
    Thanks a bunch!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by FollyRoger View Post
    So, thanks again for the fast responses. I have to apologize for the sloppy, question-riddled post I left a few days ago, I know it's my responsibility to find these things out for myself, regardless of my own personal troubles making sense of it all.
    Thanks again for the links, but I guess my misunderstanding is this:
    I've been looking around and from what I understand, most people making a 1 gallon batch seem to pitch the whole 5g packet, though it's more yeast than what's necessary. So my question is, when calculating the amount of GoFerm, should I be calculating against the entire 5 grams of yeast, or only the amount of yeast that's required for 1 gallon?
    If not, then from my calculations (1 part yeast to 1.25 parts GoFerm in 20x the GoFerm's weight), if I use a whole 5 gram packet, I should rehydrate in a mix of 6.25g GoFerm and 150mL water. To me, that looks about right from what I've seen, but I really appreciate the input from more experienced mead makers.
    Thanks a bunch!
    You are correct. And a 5 gram pack isn't over pitching. It's not good to save half a packet. We generally suggest 2 grams a gallon up to 1120. And then 3 grams to 1150. And 5 above that
    7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!

  10. Default

    Cool! Thanks again for helping

  11. #11

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    Hi FollyRoger. Being new myself, I totally relate... I can't tell you how many times I read the same material, referred back to notes and material, and then reworked my equipment list and process. A couple things I can add if it helps...
    1 - I did a 'dry run' with my equipment and process. Run through each step in your mind (and on paper for that matter). Make sure you have everything you need right there.
    2 - Outside of maybe the bottling equipment, I'd recommend having everything on hand.
    3 - I've only done 1 gallon batches so far. I don't even have the results to prove that everything is OK just yet, but one thing you may notice when re-hydrating for small batches is the water temps change fast because you're only working with such a small amount of water (at least it changed fast for me - working in a 69-70 degree room). I worry a bit about the fact that the temp of the water goes form 104 to below 95 so fast because the yeast need that warmer temp to avoid having what I've heard others call creases in their cell wall (imagine a raisin rehydrating into a nice, smooth skinned, grape - at least that's what I picture in my mind). I have no idea how long a yeast cell needs at that temp though.
    So far, it seems like everything is fine with my batches, but that is also one reason I used 4g of yeast for an OG of 1.113. I had a 8g packet, and split it into 2 batches - figuring the additional yeast cells could only help in the event they all don't rehydrate well enough due to the fast temp decline.
    4 - If you have enough yeast and equipment for 2 batches, I'd recommend trying your original recipe, but also trying a Traditional/Show mead - just honey, water, and yeast. I heard Squatchy advise that we learn how to make a decent Traditional mead, because once you have that down, you'll likely have fewer flaws in your technique and your mead. That makes sense to me. I have no current plans/desire to compete with my meads. My main goal is to make this as simple as possible while having fun trying to bring out different flavors in enjoyable to drink meads.
    Enjoy the adventure.

  12. #12

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    It's nice to see new mazers reading up, searching and heeding advice. You'll be making good mead soon enough
    "Shouldn’t we say wine is a mead-like beverage made with grapes substituted for the honey?" - Steve Piatz

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stasis View Post
    It's nice to see new mazers reading up, searching and heeding advice.
    Well we come here to learn, so that's what we'll be doing here

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