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  1. Default

    Thanks! I will do that

    I've already listened/watched some of these and in one way it has lifted my spirits so I don't think this first run will be a complete failure, however, it also just leaves a few of the questions I have still unanswered. Everyone seems to keep saying that you can use any good brewing yeast that you want but I need a little more guidence then that because, well, I got the yeast that I thought was best suited to the environment that it would be used in..... but that's appearently wrong. So..... my fermentors are hovering within a few degrees of 78F (25.5C). Going with the concept that "everyone should be able to make good mead", what yeast do you suggest I use in the future to produce a semisweet or sweet mead? I'm asking this now because when I can afford to get the potassium sorbate and the bentonite powder I might as well see if I can get proper yeast and a hydrometer so I can save on shipping.

    Also, I don't remember seeing anyone answer my question about leaving the secondary (which will be my final container) in the fridge. Is there any reason for taking it out after I've cold crashed it and stabilized it?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Brookline, NH
    Posts
    706

    Default

    You really need to listen to the Gotmead podcasts. Yeast selection will be thoroughly covered. There's nothing wrong with EC-1118! There's a reason why it's the yeast used in just about all wine kits that you buy. It's pretty much a no fail yeast, with a wide temperature range and is classified as a killer yeast, in that it will out compete and consume other organisms that might accidentally get into your must.

    Other popular yeasts are K1-V1116, 71B-1122 and D47. D47 has a small temp range, so would not be advised in your situation.

    You need to stop thinking that yeast selection has a bearing on whether you end up with a sweet, semisweet or dry mead. You can end up with any sweetness level you want, no matter what yeast you use. You just have to either add enough honey up front, so that you exceed the alcohol tolerance for the yeast and end up with sweetness leftover or you add just enough honey so that the yeast eats all of the honey, then stabilize and backsweeten.

    As far as leaving it in the refrigerator. I would still cold crash, and then rack it into a secondary, to get it off the large yeast bed. But there is no reason why you can't leave it in your refrigerator. Most people don't have the refrigerator space and would prefer to age it for a couple of months in a carboy, in a basement. In the Mead Methodologies series I sent you to, the presenter makes a JAOM right in a one gallon plastic water jug. When the JAOM is done, he doesn't even rack it. He just pours and drinks it right out of the jug.
    Last edited by darigoni; 07-06-2018 at 08:21 PM.

  3. #23

    Default

    There have been a lot of helpful comments already so I will just agree with what everyone else said and add a couple small things.

    The airlock you have is called a 3 piece airlock. I think the other one is called an S-Curve airlock.

    If you are poor than be VERY careful with your hydrometer when you get it. They are very fragile. I've already broken two of them, and it's really frustrating to keep replacing them. One was on the counter and I dropped something on the skinny part and it shattered. The other was in the test tube and I was holding it in place while I dumped out some sanitizer and it was slippery and slid out into the sink and shattered.

    Keeping the mead in the fridge is fine but I've heard that it won't age as quickly, so it will take longer to taste better. But you can keep it in there if you are not 100% sure that the fermentation is done and that should prevent bottle bombs because it should be too cold for the yeast to keep fermenting.
    Raisins are NOT nutrients for yeast... but french fries ARE!

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