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Traditional Mead Question

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Squatchy

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I agree with Devin.

Just getting finished with the fermentation is only getting less than half the way to the finish line. You have a ton of more work to do. Even with a traditional, you have more work. I have rarely ever tasted a mead that wasn't improved by making acid adjustments. And I am also talking about all the professional meads I have tasted as well as home brewers. And I would guess I taste at least 250-300 a year. I can almost say the same thing about oak additions. So you need to let the mead clear and age for a while. Or more. Depending on how clean your ferment and how high of an ABV you finished up with. Even the cleanest mead in the world will still go through changes for 6-8 months before it settles down some. And if you have faults, you will need even more time. And if you make high ABV's you need time for the ethanol to smooth out.



Once it's fairly stable (flavor wise) then you can add your adjuncts to taste. Don't forget your sulfites too. Once those are all where you want them. You can finish fining. And filter after that if you have one. And now you can bottle. I make stuff every day that taste great right out of my fermenters. But I usually age and tweak for a year or so before I feel I can feel relatively safe to be able to bottle. And not have it change much in the bottle.

Nothing sucks worse than bottling before it's clear, and then end up with dust in the bottle. Or often it even looks clear to the eye and you still and up with dust in the bottle. Many things will drop out over time that you can't even see in a clear must. There is a lot to understand if you want to learn the how to's of finning, so you can know what and how much to use to capture the stuff in your mead.

So in some ways, it depends on how deep you want to go. And how nice do you want your mead to present in a bottle? I take lots of pride in my mead and wouldn't consider giving someone a bottle that will have dust in it later. Never could I pass a bottle to someone if you can't easily read through it. And I even will only rarely hand out my stuff unless it's been polished and sparkles like diamonds in a jewelry store.

But you may feel much different than I and that's fine. But the closer you get it to finished before you lock it up. The closer to finished it will taste when you open it.

]
 

sietch

NewBee
Registered Member
Jan 4, 2019
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Victoria, BC
Recommended to sulfite before secondary or right before bottling?

I was planning on aging in kegs (easy to keep O2 out and easy to sample from), but then I obviously can't see if things are settling out nicely. Do you think if I pull off 1 gallon or so and put that into glass, that would act as a good gauge for how it is behaving in the keg?
 

Squatchy

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Recommended to sulfite before secondary or right before bottling?

I was planning on aging in kegs (easy to keep O2 out and easy to sample from), but then I obviously can't see if things are settling out nicely. Do you think if I pull off 1 gallon or so and put that into glass, that would act as a good gauge for how it is behaving in the keg?

Well. You're never going to want to store it in a keg for very long if it's dirty. Keep racking it until it's clear. And you need to start managing your SO2 from as soon as your finished fermenting
 

4give

Honey Master
Registered Member
Jan 1, 2018
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Montrose, CO
Great job dude. The only correction. (and I may have decided this after that podcast) I now only add O2 for the first 3 doses on the same feeding schedule as the Fermain-d O. It doesn't have to coexist with the feeding on YAN. But I do it at pitch 12, 24, 36 done

Squatchy, I may have jumbled up some things too regarding your protocol. I understand what you're saying about O2, but can you clarify how you pitch your nutrient (Ferm O)? Essentially, when exactly do you pitch nutrients?

I've been pitching nutrients roughly at 12 hours, 36, 60, and then 1/3 break (or 7 days, witch ever is first). It would be even easier for me if I could speed those 4 SNAs up.

Thanks!
 

Squatchy

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Squatchy, I may have jumbled up some things too regarding your protocol. I understand what you're saying about O2, but can you clarify how you pitch your nutrient (Ferm O)? Essentially, when exactly do you pitch nutrients?

I've been pitching nutrients roughly at 12 hours, 36, 60, and then 1/3 break (or 7 days, witch ever is first). It would be even easier for me if I could speed those 4 SNAs up.

Thanks!

So feed your first feeding as soon as your yeast has moved out of the lag phase. You will see proof of fermentation at that point.

Then every 24 hrs after that till the third dose is in. At that point, you will need to wait till the 1/3 break for the last one.
 

Mead_Monster

NewBee
Registered Member
Mar 13, 2013
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1
Colorado Springs, CO
Squatchy, I've brought up the pod cast for 9/26. Listened intently and taken copious notes. Just have to purchase a few things. Anxious to start this project yesterday.

I have learned a ton, though I can't say with 100% certainty that all the information is completely assimilated. I found it quite interesting and somewhat massaging to my ego that my idea as a fledgling meaderist, not sure that is a real word, but I like it, to develop a solid traditional or two, then use those to build other recipes is what you and other experienced mead makers preach.

How many more podcasts do you suggest listening to before getting started or do you suggest that when I have the required supplies go ahead and start while listening to the rest of the podcasts?

By the way, I mentioned to my daughter how you have offered help with advice on this wedding mead project. She is very appreciative as well.

Thanks
 

Squatchy

Lifetime GotMead Patron
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Nov 3, 2014
5,542
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Denver
Squatchy, I've brought up the pod cast for 9/26. Listened intently and taken copious notes. Just have to purchase a few things. Anxious to start this project yesterday.

I have learned a ton, though I can't say with 100% certainty that all the information is completely assimilated. I found it quite interesting and somewhat massaging to my ego that my idea as a fledgling meaderist, not sure that is a real word, but I like it, to develop a solid traditional or two, then use those to build other recipes is what you and other experienced mead makers preach.

How many more podcasts do you suggest listening to before getting started or do you suggest that when I have the required supplies go ahead and start while listening to the rest of the podcasts?

By the way, I mentioned to my daughter how you have offered help with advice on this wedding mead project. She is very appreciative as well.

Thanks

Hi

I want to get started as soon as you have all of the ingredients together. Are you talking of the podcast in 2017 or 2018? They start almost on the same date, so I'm not sure which hone you have started on. I want you to get familiar with the 2017 stuff. This walks through every step of making mead. Once you have your stuff. We will start another thread or a private FB group. And I will help to make everything clear and we will then do a day by day route to the very end. Why don't you email through here and give me your number so we can talk on the phone please
 

AudioDaddio

NewBee
Registered Member
Nov 21, 2018
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0
Squatchy, just finished Episode 3 where you talk about keeping the must on lees for a month. I've made a bunch of notes, but let me be sure I'm getting a few things straight from the first few episodes so far:

1. Adding Oxygen to the must is good until the 1/3 sugar break. I'll start off with the oxygen stone, then for the first week or so I will aerate while stirring.
2. Once at the 1/3 sugar break, I won't aerate anymore. From them on it's degassing (stirring without introducing more Oxygen).
3. My primary fermentation will finish when it finishes according to my hydrometer. But I'll continue to stir each day, to keep things in suspension, even though I won't really be degassing any more since there's no more fermentation going on.
4. After a month or more, I stop stirring, add Sulfite, 24 hours later add Sorbate, and cold crash. All this is still going on in my primary fermentation vessel.
5. Once that clears, I rack into carboy for aging and finishing.

One thing I realize - where in there do I put the airlock? I know you talk about primary fermenting in a bucket for the month... do I just keep that covered with a towel the whole time, or do I seal and airlock it after the 1/3 sugar break?
 

Squatchy

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Nov 3, 2014
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So if it's a regular bucket lid. Let it sit on top loosely until the gravity gets to 1020. Then move it over to a glass vessel if you can. If not. You can buy a grommet that will fit in the hole and the airlock will fit into that
 

Aaron Jaworowski

NewBee
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Oct 31, 2018
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One thing I realize - where in there do I put the airlock? I know you talk about primary fermenting in a bucket for the month... do I just keep that covered with a towel the whole time, or do I seal and airlock it after the 1/3 sugar break?
There is a few ways to do this. You can buy a lid for most buckets that has a hole drilled with a rubber o-ring for your air lock. Or you can do as you said and place a towel over your fermenter. I believe you have to soak the towel in a sanitizer tho. "Not positive because I have never done this method" maybe someone with more experience can chim in on that.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

AudioDaddio

NewBee
Registered Member
Nov 21, 2018
15
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0
I do have the grommet and a sealing lid. I didn't word it well, but I'm more wondering WHEN it's important to seal the mead. I thought the plan was to keep it in the bucket for a month (primary fermentation), then transfer once after the month. But stirring every day in the bucket I feel like I'm introducing a lot of air into there even while being careful not to disturb the top of the liquid.
 

Squatchy

Lifetime GotMead Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Nov 3, 2014
5,542
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Denver
I do have the grommet and a sealing lid. I didn't word it well, but I'm more wondering WHEN it's important to seal the mead. I thought the plan was to keep it in the bucket for a month (primary fermentation), then transfer once after the month. But stirring every day in the bucket I feel like I'm introducing a lot of air into there even while being careful not to disturb the top of the liquid.

So I wouldn't teach you something that doesn't work for me and line up with the most modern protocol that I help develop. So please trust me. I doubt you know. And I haven't told many about it. But I did win second place in the hardest mead competition ever. We had a points race where we added up points won over five different mead-only competitions. The best mead makers on the planet competed against each other.

See here

The AMMA is pleased to announce the results of the first-ever National Mead Maker of the Year competition!

The purpose of this competition is not only to help spur even more participation in mead competitions but to also motivate higher standards of mead making practices from amateur mead makers around the country.

The big announcement and awarding of prizes to the MeadMaker of the Year and the 1st and 2nd runners up will happen at the 2019 AMMA Annual Meeting at MeadCon in Broomfield, March 12, 2019. Winners will be contacted to arrange receipt of prizes.

Here are the top ten mead makers by points for 2018.

Congratulations to the winners, and to all of those who put your all into competing for the ultimate bragging rights in the mead world.

Details for the 2019 NMMY season will be updated on the AMMA website at a later time.



National Meadmaker of the Year 2018 Tom Repas 117 points

First Runner-Up Ryan Carlson 78 points

Second Runner-Up Carvin Wilson 68 points

4th Michael Wilcox 66 points
5th Steve Patik 43 points
6th Matthew Weide 33 points
7th Joe Leigh 28 points
8th Jeremy Goehring 26 points
9th Marek Leczycki 23 points
10th Scott Behrens 21 points


HOW WERE THE WINNERS DETERMINED?

We include medals won in participating competitions. A mead competition must have more than 100 entries to be included in MeadMaker of the Year.

Points are awarded as follows:

Gold medals awarded 6 points
Silver medals awarded 4 points
Bronze medals awarded 2 points
1st Place BOS awarded 4 points
2nd Place BOS awarded 3 points
3rd Place BOS awarded 2 points
Honorable mentions awarded 1 point


* Entrants must be an active AMMA member at the time of each competition for those points to qualify towards the NMMY award


QUALIFYING COMPETITIONS

Mazer Cup International
Mead Free or Die
Domras Cup
Orpheus Cup
Texas Mead Cup
Michigan
 

AudioDaddio

NewBee
Registered Member
Nov 21, 2018
15
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Nice, congrats! Believe me this is me doubting my ability to get all this right, not doubting the instruction. ;)
 
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