Further to Waynes post, here is your best guide
when starting out. Yes it does take a bit of reading, but it's full of brilliant guidance and probably answers a lot of the initial Q's you may have.
I notice you say about using D47 yeast. It is a good yeast, but has a very narrow temperature range. Others hereabouts have found that you need to keep the ferment below 70F/21C with it, as it can produce fusels if fermented warmer - so I'd say it's worth keeping that in mind.
Raw honey is fine, if it does have any bits of debris in it, they'll come out during the racking process later on.
As to when to add the nutrient, I'd suggest it depends on what kind of nutrient/energiser/combination nutrient you have. The NewBee guide explains a lot, including staggered additions. I'm thinking that if you have something like Fermax or similar, then perhaps just a tiny bit into the must before you pitch the yeast (peoples experiments, plus some research sources have shown that the usual nitrogen source, di-ammonium phosphate, can sometimes be detrimental to yeast - which is why it's suggested to use GoFerm to rehydrate the yeast, then pitch the yeast/GoFerm/water into a new batch, and not add any nitrogen containing nutrient or energiser until you see some visible signs of ferment).
It's worth paying plenty of attention to the aeration process (a hydrometer is your friend when working out where you are in the fermentation), as it's routinely suggested to aerate the batch down to about the 1/3rd sugar break, and the only way you're gonna know where that is, is with hydrometer readings.
Split/staggered nutrient additions are also worth knowing about i.e. knowing how much nutrient/energiser you'll be using total, then splitting it up, into at least 2 doses (if you want to break it down more, then that's fine - you just have to work out how many doses and when you'll thinking of adding it). The first is normally added when there's visible signs of fermentation starting (after the "lag phase"), then the second dose after you've achieve the 1/3rd sugar break (and after the batch has been aerated a final time - as that helps prevent mead/gas eruptions from escaping CO2).
Dunno if any of that lot will help.... but good luck with your batch.