Actually, chilling in a refrigerator for two weeks at about 38 degrees, then racking to another vessel is a very good way to stabilize your mead. You will put the yeast to sleep as mentioned below, and rack carefully from above the flocculated yeast into a new vessel. This won't clear your mead of all yeast, but it will slow them down to a point where you can rack off most of the yeast and then stabilize with K Metabisulphite and K sorbate.
Note that using K sorbate without using K Metabisulphite presents a risk of infection by Acetobacter sp. which is typified by a Geranium aroma. Note the pH and sulfite with an appropriate dose, then proceed with an appropriate K sorbate addition in order to keep the yeast from restarting fermentation.
If you want to do it without sorbate and sulphite, then crash it for four weeks at about 38, then rack carefully into another vessel, and let it stand in bulk aging for another two to three months, noting the gravity weekly for any changes that would indicate cessation of yeast activity. From there, I would leave my mead for the better part of a year to ensure that your yeasties have quit completely on you. Even this does not guarantee that there will not be yeast that can kick off, but it really does cut down on the possibility.
Sterile fltering is another option that eliminates the need for chilling and sorbate/sulphite additions. Using a filter that is sufficiently rated to remove yeast and bacteria (.45 micron) and your job is done.
Cheers,
Oskaar