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Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
Howdy,

A quick where I been, where I am, where I want to be (this is where most the questions will come)

First "Brewing" I ever did was at 16, Biology/Chemistry teacher showed a group of us the wonders of Raisin "Wine". Entry into beer brewing was a gift of a Mr Beer set-up for college graduation, which soon morphed into, well, a bigger, slightly more "real" set-up. Marriage and kids put a halt to the brewing in the house, equipment stored for quite a while.

Today, kids are older, have a closet with a ventilation fan to put fermentables, but making wort is still not in the cards, so to mead I turn. Currently have multiple gal, single 3 gal, and single 7 gal fermenters all glass, multiple airlocks, sanitizer, etc.

I don't think I'll have the patience to wait a year plus for mead, but splitting a primary between multiple secondaries to keep the thirst sated is an option I'm looking at to get the best of both worlds. Have read up on BOMM, and its variations on denardbrewing.com. Have a couple of "concerns" which it would be helpful if addressed.

I have a source of local honey, spring water, and good chunk of seasonal local produce, just typically would have to buy the Saturday before making must.

1. External Unchangeable Parameters:
a. Live in Texas, for Summer 1, Summer 2, and Summer 3 (that's spring, summer, and fall to those of you who experience more than two seasons) the house stays between 72-78 F. During Non-Summer (winter) the house is between 64-68 F. "Fermenting closet" stays in the 74-75 range over the past month. Have not measured non-summer temps.
b. I travel, a lot, so my typical time allocation for brewing would be best case, Thursday night begin, tend to it Fri-Sun, and then it is on it's own until Thu again at the earliest. Typically not gone for more than 17 days at a time, with most trips being a week or less.
c. I prefer not so sweet stuff. As in single malt scotch over bourbon type of not so sweet. I will most likely move more into Cysers as I have found those to be quite refreshing with a hint of sweetness. Not sure about what commercial meadery they came from, but found them last year at Renaissance Festival.

Questions:

1. Does the mead calculator not have a Cider option for additional sugars? Or does just using apples work?

2. How much head room is needed in the primary for aeration/degassing? I've read/seen some pretty "violent" (read rose high) reactions with must and stirring/swirling/shaking... 1 gal headroom in a 3 gal carboy enough, too much?

3. How much "loss" is there typically with lees not transferring? If I want to bottle 128 oz, how much must should I start with, allowing for losing 4-6 oz for sampling. (I use a SG refractometer hydrometer)

4. BOMM, I see where Bray did some dry yeast experiments. And as they are easier to bulk buy and cold store, CBC-1 is one that I am both familiar with, and looks pretty good on his results. It also "fits" with my temperature constraints, barely. Will it convert over to the BOMM Cyser recipe adequately?

5. How sweet is BOMM? Does it do well going drier? (I'd rather go too dry and then back sweeten rather than be too sweet)

Thanks in advance.
 

darigoni

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jun 4, 2016
945
63
28
Brookline, NH
1. a. The BOMM yeast ( Wyeast 1388 ) has a temp range of 64-80 F, but I think Bray suggests that you keep it around 68-70 F range.
b. You're going to have a hard time doing nutrient additions and daily aeration/degassing with that kind of a work schedule.
c. BOMM's typically ferment dry or you can adjust the amount if honey you start with so that it does so.

Q1. No, the mead calculator doesn't have a cider option, but you can measure the SG of the cider and then use sugar or honey, to create the same SG in the calculator. Roughly, store bought cider has an SG = 1.050.

Q2. It's highly suggested you do your primary fermentations in a bucket. 5 gallon, food grade buckets can be bought fairly cheaply at Lowe's. They have a couple of different types of lids also. I buy the easy on/off lids and don't worry about the fact that they are not air tight (not a problem in primary fermentation).

www.lowes.com/pd/Encore-Plastics-5-Gallon-Commercial-Food-Grade-Bucket/3694238

Q3. Lees loss depends on how good you are are siphoning and what you may have used in your fermenter. There are some fruits where you will lose 25% of your product. I would plan on a 10% loss. When I get towards the end of siphoning and I can see that I'm starting to suck up some lees, I'll finish up in a large glass, then stick it in the refrigerator, where it will quickly settle out and I can then drink it. :)

Q4. Yes, dry yeast are easier to buy and store.

Q5. BOMM's typically ferment dry or you can adjust the amount of honey you start with, so that it does so.

Waiting a year for the flaws to age out of your mead is no longer needed. If you follow good practices, there's no reason why you can't use any yeast to have a drinkable mead in one month.

Read about SNA (staggered nutrient additions) and TOSNA (Tailored Organic SNA). It seems that TOSNA is the way everyone is headed, so I suggest that you look into it heavily.

http://www.meadmaderight.com/

https://www.meadmakr.com/tosna-2-0/
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
Thanks for the quick reply.

I agree on hard on the schedule, it seems like it is dependent upon IFs, like IF fermentation takes off and the 1/3 mark is hit within 24 hours and the 2/3 mark is hit within 72 hours, then can wait 5-7 days for final feeding, that will be fine. However, aeration/degassing would only happen in first 72 hours, followed by delay. Would going for twice a day for the first three days and then hitting it when I get back work? Is the main risk a stall?

On buckets, I'm not a fan, the 7 gal is a wide mouth (6" opening) though. Does seem from the BOMM materials, folks simply ferment IN the gallon container the spring water comes in, is this correct?

TOSNA on reading list...
 

bernardsmith

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Sep 1, 2013
1,611
32
48
Saratoga Springs , NY
Hi Pedroig - and welcome. Not so much a literal response to your questions but the truth is that you can make very drinkable meads in a week. I kid you not. A while ago (in February) I took up a challenge to make and bottle mead in 7 days and I made (sequentially) a mead made of "pine" honey, chestnut honey and avocado honey. SG's were about 1.050 and the yeast I used was WLP 006. I store them in a fridge because I am certain they were not finished fermenting when I bottled them but I cracked open a bottle of the avocado mead the other day and it was quite delicious. It was also delightful on bottling day.
Honey ain't grain and mead ain't beer. There is no need to toss any sample you have drawn to measure the SG. If your sanitization protocol is good simply return the sample to the carboy.
Personally, I prefer to use fermenting buckets to carboys for the primary fermentation. This allows me much better access to the mead. When gravity drops to about 1.005 then I transfer my meads to a narrow necked carboy that I seal with bung and airlock.
Using a bucket also means that it is really simple for me to begin with say, 1.125 gallons (9 pints) or 10 pints to take into account losses due to expected heavy sediment and lees (say, if I am making a mango or banana mead). Rather than focus on a volume of must I focus on the starting gravity and the amount of fruits and herbs etc. that I need for this or that batch.
Last point. IMO, it is always far easier to ferment dry and back sweeten than to try to catch a bullet between your teeth and stop fermentation in mid flight. However, there is a third option - and truth be told, it is not one I have attempted and that is to step feed the yeast with more and more honey until you hit and then exceed the yeast's tolerance for ethanol. By definition you will have created a sweet mead without backsweetening. I have not tried this approach for two reasons: 1) honey is not cheap and I don't know that I want to use 4 lbs or so of honey in every gallon of mead I make when I can make good meads using 1 - 3 lbs of honey/gallon and 2) I don't know that I want to sip a mead at 19% ABV (or thereabouts) when I can quaff one mead at 6% ABV and drink another at 12%. But that's me. You may prefer high alcohol meads.
 

darigoni

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jun 4, 2016
945
63
28
Brookline, NH
Thanks for the quick reply.

I agree on hard on the schedule, it seems like it is dependent upon IFs, like IF fermentation takes off and the 1/3 mark is hit within 24 hours and the 2/3 mark is hit within 72 hours, then can wait 5-7 days for final feeding, that will be fine. However, aeration/degassing would only happen in first 72 hours, followed by delay. Would going for twice a day for the first three days and then hitting it when I get back work? Is the main risk a stall?

On buckets, I'm not a fan, the 7 gal is a wide mouth (6" opening) though. Does seem from the BOMM materials, folks simply ferment IN the gallon container the spring water comes in, is this correct?

TOSNA on reading list...

Never seen a BOMM done in a water jug, but don't think it would be an issue, as I've seen it done with JAOM's.

Have you checked out this BOMM video?: https://youtu.be/U1gJmPsaSFE

While it was made before Bray incorporated Fermaid O into his nutrient protocol, I think it shows everything you need to know about making a BOMM and in my eyes is the definitive video on it.
 
D

Devin Petry-Johnson

Guest
Guest
I think fermenting in the plastic jugs would be ok but keep in mind that they were made to store water, not alcohol. And alcohol can react differently with the plastic than the water does. But I'm not an expert. If you have carboys, I would just use those to be safe.

I ferment in the carboys all the time and I like it better than the buckets. I'll often make about 1.5 gallons split in 2 one gallon carboys. Then there is plenty of room in each one for foaming. And then when I rack to secondary into a new one gallon carboy, it fits all the way to the top (even accounting for loss on the lees) so I don't have to worry about oxidization.
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
@darigoni
My question on BOMM in the jug is due to the instructions:

1. Start with 1 gallon Ozarka spring water.
2. Remove 1/2 cup water to compensate for smack pack volume.
3. Draw line on jugs at this water level.
4. Remove an additional 3.2 cups of water from jug (757 ml).

After that it is adding stuff back to the jug, and not into a "proper" fermenter.

Thanks for the video link!

@bernardsmith I only need a couple of drops for my RefHyd to get SG, but I pull an ounce for, umm, QA purposes. Worked well with beer, don't see why I'd change it for mead.

@devin You pretty much summed up why I don't like plastic buckets, when exposed to a temperature difference ALL plastics out gas, even food grade plastics. And fermenting causes a temperature difference.

Appreciate the responses, and if I'm reading them right, I might not be able to put out medal winning bottles, but doesn't sound like any of my concerns will result in anything bad tasting, much less bad for one period.

Will gather up ingredients this weekend, have to check with the Homebrew stuff on Go Ferm, Fermaid O, and Potassium Carbonate (or bi), if they don't have it, does this place have an online store associate with it, or should I just go through Amazon?

Proposed "Recipe" (credit to Denard Brewing for the basis of the below):
2.25 Gal Ozarka Spring Water
5 lbs Community Garden Honey
11 g CBC-1 Yeast (unless y'all have a way of measuring out basically half since the TOSNA calls for 5g)
11 g Go Ferm (Tosna says 6.25 for 5 g of yeast)
1 Tbsp Fermaid O
1/2 tsp KHCO3

Thoughts? Adjustments?
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
@darigoni
My question on BOMM in the jug is due to the instructions:

1. Start with 1 gallon Ozarka spring water.
2. Remove 1/2 cup water to compensate for smack pack volume.
3. Draw line on jugs at this water level.
4. Remove an additional 3.2 cups of water from jug (757 ml).

After that it is adding stuff back to the jug, and not into a "proper" fermenter.

Thanks for the video link!

@bernardsmith I only need a couple of drops for my RefHyd to get SG, but I pull an ounce for, umm, QA purposes. Worked well with beer, don't see why I'd change it for mead.

@devin You pretty much summed up why I don't like plastic buckets, when exposed to a temperature difference ALL plastics out gas, even food grade plastics. And fermenting causes a temperature difference.

Appreciate the responses, and if I'm reading them right, I might not be able to put out medal winning bottles, but doesn't sound like any of my concerns will result in anything bad tasting, much less bad for one period.

Will gather up ingredients this weekend, have to check with the Homebrew stuff on Go Ferm, Fermaid O, and Potassium Carbonate (or bi), if they don't have it, does this place have an online store associate with it, or should I just go through Amazon?

Proposed "Recipe" (credit to Denard Brewing for the basis of the below):
2.25 Gal Ozarka Spring Water
5 lbs Community Garden Honey
11 g CBC-1 Yeast (unless y'all have a way of measuring out basically half since the TOSNA calls for 5g)
11 g Go Ferm (Tosna says 6.25 for 5 g of yeast)
1 Tbsp Fermaid O
1/2 tsp KHCO3

Thoughts? Adjustments?

** Thought I posted this earlier, but spotty internet, if double posted, will figure something out... **
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
Ok, I've posted two replies to this thread now, and not showing up, not sure why.

If this doesn't show up, I'll contact admin, if it does, I'll repost again....

<frustrated> <hey it works>

For the BOMM in the gallon spring water container, it comes because the directions state to mark the jug, but it doesn't state to ever remove the must from the jug...

1. Start with 1 gallon Ozarka spring water.
2. Remove 1/2 cup water to compensate for smack pack volume.
3. Draw line on jugs at this water level.
4. Remove an additional 3.2 cups of water from jug (757 ml).
5. Add Orange Blossom honey (or your favorite varietal honey) back to line.

Bernardsmith, I use a Ref/Hyd for SG, so only need a drop or two of liquid, but if I"m pulling a drop, I'm pulling an ounce for, ummm, QA purposes... ;)

Devin, you pretty much stated why I don't like plastic buckets for fermenting, ALL plastics out gas when subject to temperature differences. So the raised temperature of fermenting versus the ambient air results in out gassing, even with food grade plastic. It may not be enough to be noticeable, but it is there.

Will rerun calculations and post up the recipe I'm looking at doing, so I can get supplies this week in order to make next week. BTW< does this site have an associated online supply shop? I support my local homebrew store, but if I have to wait for next shipment, would like an alternative besides Amazon.
 
Last edited:
D

Devin Petry-Johnson

Guest
Guest
I don't think there is an associated supply shop. But Squatchy on the forums here has mentioned morewine.com and I recently made a couple of orders with them and it's been great. I still use amazon for a few things.
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
Hmm, seems like a way to be missing out on a supportive community...

Proposed Recipe (with a few questions) (denardbrewing.com for the credit/inspiration with TOSNA 2.0 modification)

Pedroig Show BOMM (mod), (2 Gallon Yield)

Ingredients:
5 lbs Community Garden Honey
H20 to 2 Gallons
1 tsp KHCO3
Mix honey and water until SG reads 1.099, add KHCO3, shake/aerate well.

Meadmaking process:

Yeast Rehydration: 11 g CBC-1
1. To 0.5 cups of hot water (104 F), add equal volumes of GoFerm and dehydrated yeast (11 grams each). I added GoFerm first and stir to mix, then sprinkle the yeast on top. After it stands for a few minutes, I mix again.
2. Gradually add must to yeast til it gets to room temp.

Question 1: This is from Bray's dry yeast experiment. TOSNA says 4g yeast 5g Go Ferm. Using a full packet would be easier. So go easy or go strict TOSNA 2.0?

Fermentation management:
1. Add yeast to must.
2. Aerate.
2. Add 2.13 g Fermaid O 24-hours after yeast pitch. Aerate.
3. At the 48 hour mark add 2.13 g Fermaid O. Aerate.
4. At the 72 hour mark add 2.13 g Fermaid O. Aerate.
5. The final nutrient addition of 2.11 g Fermaid O is on the 7th day after yeast pitch or when fermentation has reached its 1/3 sugar break (SG = 1.066), whichever comes first. Aerate.
6. Rack when SG hits 1.000 in 1 gal carboys.

Aging:
1. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 30 day mark.
2. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 60 day mark.
3. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 90 day mark.
4. Carboy 1: Remainder for trial at 120 day mark.
5. Carboy 2: Bottle at whichever the above are to my liking. (Real scientific I know)

Question 2: Am I missing anything above that y'all may need?

Question 3: According to the SG's, should end up above the 12% ABV "listing" on CBC-1, do I need to adjust so that it ends up under ABV to ensure a dry mead?
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
Hmm, seems like a way to be missing out on a supportive community...

Proposed Recipe (with a few questions) (denardbrewing.com for the credit/inspiration with TOSNA 2.0 modification)

Pedroig Show BOMM (mod), (2 Gallon Yield)

Ingredients:
5 lbs Community Garden Honey
H20 to 2 Gallons
1 tsp KHCO3
Mix honey and water until SG reads 1.099, add KHCO3, shake/aerate well.

Meadmaking process:

Yeast Rehydration: 11 g CBC-1
1. To 0.5 cups of hot water (104 F), add equal volumes of GoFerm and dehydrated yeast (11 grams each). I added GoFerm first and stir to mix, then sprinkle the yeast on top. After it stands for a few minutes, I mix again.
2. Gradually add must to yeast til it gets to room temp.

Question 1: This is from Bray's dry yeast experiment. TOSNA says 4g yeast 5g Go Ferm. Using a full packet would be easier. So go easy or go strict TOSNA 2.0?

Fermentation management:
1. Add yeast to must.
2. Aerate.
2. Add 2.13 g Fermaid O 24-hours after yeast pitch. Aerate.
3. At the 48 hour mark add 2.13 g Fermaid O. Aerate.
4. At the 72 hour mark add 2.13 g Fermaid O. Aerate.
5. The final nutrient addition of 2.11 g Fermaid O is on the 7th day after yeast pitch or when fermentation has reached its 1/3 sugar break (SG = 1.066), whichever comes first. Aerate.
6. Rack when SG hits 1.000 in 1 gal carboys.

Aging:
1. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 30 day mark.
2. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 60 day mark.
3. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 90 day mark.
4. Carboy 1: Remainder for trial at 120 day mark.
5. Carboy 2: Bottle at whichever the above are to my liking. (Real scientific I know)

Question 2: Am I missing anything above that y'all may need?

Question 3: According to the SG's, should end up above the 12% ABV "listing" on CBC-1, do I need to adjust so that it ends up under ABV to ensure a dry mead?
 

Squatchy

Lifetime GotMead Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Nov 3, 2014
5,542
261
83
Denver
Ok, I've posted two replies to this thread now, and not showing up, not sure why.

If this doesn't show up, I'll contact admin, if it does, I'll repost again....

<frustrated> <hey it works>

For the BOMM in the gallon spring water container, it comes because the directions state to mark the jug, but it doesn't state to ever remove the must from the jug...



Bernardsmith, I use a Ref/Hyd for SG, so only need a drop or two of liquid, but if I"m pulling a drop, I'm pulling an ounce for, ummm, QA purposes... ;)

Devin, you pretty much stated why I don't like plastic buckets for fermenting, ALL plastics out gas when subject to temperature differences. So the raised temperature of fermenting versus the ambient air results in out gassing, even with food grade plastic. It may not be enough to be noticeable, but it is there.

Will rerun calculations and post up the recipe I'm looking at doing, so I can get supplies this week in order to make next week. BTW< does this site have an associated online supply shop? I support my local homebrew store, but if I have to wait for next shipment, would like an alternative besides Amazon.

So I have made a couple hundred gal;lons in plastic trash cans that don't even have a tight fitting lid on them. It's not a problem at all during fermentation. I do however age in glass and corny kegs
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
Squatchy, no worries. I'm just giving the reason why I don't like plastic, not trying to convert anyone to my idiosyncrsies. ;)

OK, hope this work around works...

Proposed Recipe (with a few questions) (denardbrewing.com for the credit/inspiration with TOSNA 2.0 modification)

Pedroig Show BOMM (mod), (2 Gallon Yield)

Ingredients:
5 lbs Community Garden Honey
H20 to 2 Gallons
1 tsp KHCO3
Mix honey and water until SG reads 1.099, add KHCO3, shake/aerate well.

Meadmaking process:

Yeast Rehydration: 11 g CBC-1
1. To 0.5 cups of hot water (104 F), add equal volumes of GoFerm and dehydrated yeast (11 grams each). I added GoFerm first and stir to mix, then sprinkle the yeast on top. After it stands for a few minutes, I mix again.
2. Gradually add must to yeast til it gets to room temp.

Question 1: This is from Bray's dry yeast experiment. TOSNA says 4g yeast 5g Go Ferm. Using a full packet would be easier. So go easy or go strict TOSNA 2.0?

Fermentation management:
1. Add yeast to must.
2. Aerate.
2. Add 2.13 g Fermaid O 24-hours after yeast pitch. Aerate.
3. At the 48 hour mark add 2.13 g Fermaid O. Aerate.
4. At the 72 hour mark add 2.13 g Fermaid O. Aerate.
5. The final nutrient addition of 2.11 g Fermaid O is on the 7th day after yeast pitch or when fermentation has reached its 1/3 sugar break (SG = 1.066), whichever comes first. Aerate.
6. Rack when SG hits 1.000 in 1 gal carboys.

Aging:
1. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 30 day mark.
2. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 60 day mark.
3. Carboy 1: 1 quart for trial at 90 day mark.
4. Carboy 1: Remainder for trial at 120 day mark.
5. Carboy 2: Bottle at whichever the above are to my liking. (Real scientific I know)

Question 2: Am I missing anything above that y'all may need?

Question 3: According to the SG's, should end up above the 12% ABV "listing" on CBC-1, do I need to adjust so that it ends up under ABV to ensure a dry mead?
 

The Ghost of Thom Jones

Worker Bee
Registered Member
Jul 24, 2018
81
0
6
Portlandia
docs.google.com
Question 1: This is from Bray's dry yeast experiment. TOSNA says 4g yeast 5g Go Ferm. Using a full packet would be easier. So go easy or go strict TOSNA 2.0?

Question 2: Am I missing anything above that y'all may need?

Question 3: According to the SG's, should end up above the 12% ABV "listing" on CBC-1, do I need to adjust so that it ends up under ABV to ensure a dry mead?

For rehydration with GoFerm, you want to use 1.25x the weight of your yeast in GoFerm. So if you have 11 grams of CBC-1 that would require 13.75 grams of GoFerm. You also want to use 20x the GoFerm's weight in water, so that'd be 275 grams of water, a bit over a cup if you're using volume. Don't worry about splitting the yeast up into 5 gram doses if you don't have to. Dry yeast is generally cheap and using more yeast doesn't hurt. If anything, it helps! Aside from using extra yeast and GoFerm, I'd say follow TOSNA to the letter. It calculates the nitrogen requirements based on the amount of fermentable sugars rather than the initial yeast volume, so it'll be accurate no matter how much yeast you pitch.

In regards to the ABV: If you treat your yeast really well (proper rehydration, aeration, degassing, and feeding) they can surpass their advertised alcohol tolerance. If you're worried about it though, it's easy enough to bring the gravity down by adding water. You can also increase the perception of dryness by using tannins (thanks to the GotMead Podcast for that lil tidbit!). If you make a mead too sweet anyways, you can use it as blendng stock to backsweeten drier meads in the future.
 

rb2112br

Honey Master
Registered Member
Mar 27, 2018
156
34
28
If you make a mead too sweet anyways, you can use it as blendng stock to backsweeten drier meads in the future.

That is what I did with my first and second batch. I backsweetened my first batch a little too much. I also think it didn't get mixed really well. The first 1/3 of the batch was pretty good, but the closer I got to the halfway point, it was way too sweet. Some people that sampled it actually liked it though. My second batch, I wanted to cold crash it around the 1.020 mark, but after only 5 days, it was already down to 1.002. I didn't check it earlier than that because I thought it would take 2-3 weeks minimum. After stabilizing and clarifying the second batch, I mixed it with what was left of the first batch.

With my latest batch, I decided to use just enough honey (and bananas) to achieve the desired ABV. This batch was a 2 gallon batch, so I've split it into 2 1-gallon carboys. One was backsweetened with about 1/3 the amount of honey that I used the first time around. The other I haven't touched yet. On a side note, the few samples of it that I've tried, I really can't taste the bananas, but then again, I've never really been able to taste subtle flavors that well.
 

Squatchy

Lifetime GotMead Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Nov 3, 2014
5,542
261
83
Denver
I'm in the middle of a piece I am writing about how to learn to taste things better. I started out replying to your post and it has turned into more than a simple reply and the muse is upon me. So I will continue this and edit and then post a new thread
 

Chilkat

NewBee
Registered Member
May 9, 2018
51
0
0
Klukwan, Alaska
I'm in the middle of a piece I am writing about how to learn to taste things better. I started out replying to your post and it has turned into more than a simple reply and the muse is upon me. So I will continue this and edit and then post a new thread

When I was just getting into wine and beers in the late 90's, I read a book that said to tasted EVERYTHING as if you were tasting wines. Pay attention to where the mouthfeel was during the food/drinks. How long the after taste lingered and if other flavors came out after the bite to expand your palate.

It's the best advice for tasting and build your palate. What you writing Squatchy? Podcast?
 

Squatchy

Lifetime GotMead Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Nov 3, 2014
5,542
261
83
Denver
When I was just getting into wine and beers in the late 90's, I read a book that said to tasted EVERYTHING as if you were tasting wines. Pay attention to where the mouthfeel was during the food/drinks. How long the after taste lingered and if other flavors came out after the bite to expand your palate.

It's the best advice for tasting and build your palate. What you writing Squatchy? Podcast?

I posted a new thread about how to learn to taste better
 

Pedroig

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Jul 23, 2018
14
0
0
Texas
Thanks to all for the replies. Squatchy, good thread on tasting.

I have gotten my CBC-1, GoFerm, and Fermaid-O. Now just a little diversion to the Apiary on the way home from the Airport on Thursday, and should have a 2 gal batch up and running, with a week to baby sit it before having to run out for a couple of days.

Will keep y'all posted.
 
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