No problem.
OK Here's some things to consider.
Heating/boiling/pasteurizing destroys protiens, enzymes and flavor aromas that really (in my opinion) add to the overall character of your mead. The yeasties like these compounds that are found in the honey, and will use them when they are available if not boiled/heated/pasteurized out.
If you have an assortment of yeasts you should spend some time reading about each one of them, specifically you should find out the temperature range, the alcohol tolerance, and the specific nutrient needs for each yeast. Some have high nitrogen needs and will produce a lot of SO2 and H2S if there is not an adequate supply of nitrogen available.
Bear in mind that each of these yeasts will need supplemental dosages of nitrogen, be it in yeast nutrient mixtures from your LHBS or from other sources such as dried raisins, dates, cherries, etc. Also bear in mind that dried fruit will add color and flavors to your mead, and some claim they can tell if powdered nutrient has been added to your mead as well. The difference is that you can accurately measure how much nitrogen you're adding to your must with the powdered nutrient, and you cannot with raisins, etc. I use both methods and I like the end product with both.
I don't add acid until my mead has gone through primary and secondary. It's really not needed up front and can be added before bottling. The acid to to add balance to the flavor, and bring some polish to very sweet meads.
Your 5 gallon batch OG was probably somewhere around 1.100 - 1.110 (25 - 26 brix) plus or minus a few gravity points in either direction. So your PABV is in the neighborhood of about 14 - 15% or so. If you used a yeast that has a higher alcohol tolerance than 15% it will ferment your must to dryness. So if you were looking for a sweet or semi-sweet mead, and used a yeast with an alcohol level of higher than fifteen you'll need to backsweeten to bring it up to your desired sweetness level.
Hope that helps,
Oskaar