I've made heather mead, and it *does* have a 'beery' character to it. It is the flavor of the heather. Mine was beery for the first year or so, and as it aged, it mellowed. But, it is an acquired taste, IMO. I didn't get to taste the heather mead at your camp, Pewter, but then, I hardly made it *out* of camp last Pennsic, between the rain, the heat and me feeling crappy due to the torn rotator cuff, I languished up at Outlanders much of the week. This year will be better, and I've resolved to get out more.
On the article, I think had he taken the time to try some of the truly excellent meads out there (like Rabbitsfoot - who, by the way, goes *way* back in the SCA), Long Island (also SCA of course), Mountain Meadows (lifelong hippies who very likely played D&D), or a score of others, he would have had a different experience.
Mr. Day did seem to be speaking from a wine background, and from what his article said, he seems to have done only the lightest of researching. The very fact that he said that Gotmead was about 'what cup to drink mead from' tells me that he spent a grand total of a couple seconds on a page that popped up on Google, likely on 'history of mead'. Had he just searched 'mead', he would have found us at position 2, and seen the *large* number of articles about all aspects of mead and honey that abound on the main page. I know I was never contacted by him for comments or information.
Most of the rest of the writers who've done articles on mead in recent years at least call or email me for backgrounding and info/links. Reading the Slate article, I don't believe he actually spoke to *anyone* in the industry, just skimmed some Google links and made what sounded like snide comments about an industry he didn't take the time to learn anything about.
I'm contemplating emailing Mr. Day, but have not been able to turn up an email address for him, just his byline that he's 'a freelance writer for food and drink in Chicago'. If anyone can find a contact for this guy, I'd appreciate it...
On a side note, if that sort of article can make it up on a major online magazine, maybe I need to start writing again......after all, this guy got *paid* to write that stuff....