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  1. #21

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    I tried to keep this one covered while in the fermenter, it did get hit with flourescent when I was working on it, but not much. I didnt think about it being light struck though. I might put some out in the light and see what develops from that though!

    There was about 1/2" lees on the bottom, it was fairly well compacted, too. I added some bentonite to this batch pre-fermentation to see how it would help in clearing.

    I threw in a few grams of hops to dry hop it, or to help mask the smell if I cant get rid of it.
    Taste is great, just that slight hint in the aroma thats off puting.

    I might try adding some tetra hop extract to another batch to see if I can pull this one off.

    It's strange though because I made four batches of this so far and the big differences were the amount of honey used and the yeast used. I used a Wyeast sweet mead yeast in one that was pretty good, and in another batch used half the honey to make a lower gravity mead. Those both were fine and were treated the same way.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    The Fusel Shack, in the swamp west of Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
    Posts
    8,771

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    Well fermenting with Bentonite can definitely lead to increased H2S production. In white winemaking, some sources say not to keep it on lees that were fermented with Bentonite, so perhaps if you leave the Bentonite out all together you'd avoid the problem. Alternatively, you may need to rack it off the lees even sooner, but it is still very early to have autolysis. Was there still a lot of hop residue in the lees when you last racked it?

    There'd certainly be nothing wrong with trying a different yeast with this recipe as well. D47 maybe?
    Lanne pase toujou pi bon
    (Past years are always better)

  3. #23

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    I put a piece of copper wire in & aererated it two nights ago, I noticed a drastic drop in smell last night (from a little to just a hint if youre smelling for it) I also aererated it last night just a bit. I was only going to let the copper stay in it for 3-4 days tops and then let it sit for a week and rack off of it again.

    I just wanted to test the pre-fermentation Bentonite, looks like I found my answer!

    There wasnt a lot of hop residue at all. I was thinking about doing this one with a D47.
    Looks like I almost have to now, for research purposes!

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Calgary AB Canada
    Posts
    4,066

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    I could be wrong, but I think copper treatments are usually more like 10 minutes to an hour than measured in days... obviously surface area plays a big part in that though!

    To be safe, you might want to take some precautions to make sure the copper precipitates out, I can't remember how that's done but someone else can probably explain it.

    I don't know how much copper has to be in there to poison you, but better safe than sorry!

  5. #25

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    How much stripped 24 AWG copper wire is appropriate for one gallon of sulphuric stink wine? I have about 6 miles of it.

    Mfalenski, how much did you use?

  6. #26

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    From what I've read it really seems to depend on the surface area, and the addition of ascorbic acid. I have a piece of 12 gauge wire thats just long enough to reach to the neck of my 6.5G carboy so I can pull it out easily. I've seen mention of hours to days. I removed the copper wire, so now I am going to fine it and let it sit, then use a tight filter & let that site for a while before bottling (and probably filtering again.)

    I should have tested to see exactly what I am dealing with here. I was doing research and found a test where you use a copper sulfate solution, and a copper sulfate / ascorbic acid solution to determine if its a disulfide, H2S, mercaptan problem. Its still pretty early on, so I might try that to see if I can get a better handle on what may have happened.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Evergreen, CO (west of and above the Denver smog!)
    Posts
    5,794

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    From the behavior you observed using just the copper wire, you probably hadn't had any appreciable conversion of mercaptans to disulfides. If the reduction in stink factor is sufficient for you, but there is still a hint of it present, you can be reasonably sure that the vast majority of copper ions you introduced from the wire have reacted with the mercaptans in the presence of sulfur dioxide to produce copper sulfide (CuS). Copper sulfide is a black compound, and it is completely inert in water and alcohol, so it will precipitate to the bottom of your carboy and if you rack carefully to make sure that you don't take any of the lees layer, you can be pretty sure that most of the introduced copper will be left behind as sulfide.

    Slick, huh?
    Na zdrowie!

    Wayne B.

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