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  1. #41

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    awesome, thanks for all the knowledge and input everyone. Thanks for not discouraging me and making feel like giving up. Here's to you all in your mead making endeavors. I can't wait to make tons and tons of meads.

  2. #42

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    OK, so i racked my first batch, and threw in a campden tablet. tomorrow I'm going to add some more honey and water to top off the head space. here's the interesting part. I finally got a bigger tube and a reading off the hydrometer. it reads 1.000. What in the world happened to my first batch, I'm confounded.

    Do I need to continue with the racking/aging process, or is this batch going to be a futile effort.
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by chop1620 View Post
    OK, so i racked my first batch, and threw in a campden tablet. tomorrow I'm going to add some more honey and water to top off the head space. here's the interesting part. I finally got a bigger tube and a reading off the hydrometer. it reads 1.000. What in the world happened to my first batch, I'm confounded.

    Do I need to continue with the racking/aging process, or is this batch going to be a futile effort.
    I wouldn't worry about the Hydrometer reading. I think I would trust this latest reading in the larger tube though.

    Be aware that when you top it off with your honey and water mixture that your fermentation may start up again since you didn't stabilize.
    " ...no sense hauling empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " -TheFlyingBeer (on HomeBrewTalk)

  4. #44

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    'Be aware that when you top it off with your honey and water mixture that your fermentation may start up again since you didn't stabilize.'



    Even if i use campden tablets before i top off??

    I did rack the mead before adding to tablet.
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  5. #45

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    Campden tablets alone will not stabilize your mead, it will stun the yeast temporarily but after 24 hours it is out of the must.

    To stabilize you add Potassium BiSulfite (Campden Tablet) followed by Potassium Sorbate. Even after the addition it will take a while for it to stabilize so you sometimes get a little drop in gravity or renewed fermentation.
    " ...no sense hauling empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " -TheFlyingBeer (on HomeBrewTalk)

  6. #46

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    ok, that sucks the guy at my homebrew store said all i needed were the tablets. so i guess i will cross my fingers and hope that it doesnt start fermenting again. this first batch is like a Frankenstein mead. My next batch i will use both to stabilize it.
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  7. #47

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    You can always stabilize and back-sweeten later if need be so don't worry about it to much.
    " ...no sense hauling empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " -TheFlyingBeer (on HomeBrewTalk)

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    8,394

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    And really, even if it does take off again, big deal... we do it intentionally sometimes (look up "step feeding"). Oh, and don't give up on a batch till you're SURE it's horrid, after at least a year of ageing. To quote Medsen Fey from one of my own brewlogs, "Just remember Oskaar's rule - What tastes like ass today can be a delightfully quaffable mead in a few years."
    "The main ingredient needed is 'time' followed closely by 'patience'." - The Bishop 2013
    "When you consider that laziness and procrastination are the fundamentals of great mead, it is a miracle that the mazer cup happens." Medsen Fey, 2014
    "Sure it can be done. I've never heard of it, but I do things I've never heard if all the time. That is the beauty of being a brewer!" - Loveofrose, 2014
    "I tend to....um, er, experiment, and go outside the box. Sometimes outside the whole department store." - Ebonhawk, 2014

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    On one of 7000+ islands in the Pacific
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    637

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    Quote Originally Posted by chop1620 View Post
    so what would be a good yeast to use at my temps?
    EC-1118 is my choice. I'm in the Philippines and my meads turn out wonderfully (either that or my friends are just too polite )...

    K1v-1116 would work too and there's the old standby -- bread yeast...
    "The single biggest threat to our planet is the destruction of habitat and along the way the loss of precious wildlife. We need to reach a balance where people, habitat and wildlife can co-exist -- if we don't, everyone loses...one day...Since when has killing a wild animal, eating it or wearing it, ever saved a species?" - Stephen Robert Irwin (1962 - 2006)

  10. #50

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    so i added honey and water to take up head space after my attempt at stabilization. Then I air locked it and put it in the fridge to hopefully help keep the mead from fermenting again. I hope it should clear up in a week or so. My questions is; Do i need to keep my batch covered from the light in the fridge, or does light even affect it at this point
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  11. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by chop1620 View Post
    so i added honey and water to take up head space after my attempt at stabilization. Then I air locked it and put it in the fridge to hopefully help keep the mead from fermenting again. I hope it should clear up in a week or so. My questions is; Do i need to keep my batch covered from the light in the fridge, or does light even affect it at this point
    Putting it in the fridge will deactivate the yeast and help the mead clear, but when you remove it from the fridge to rack again or bottle I would properly stabilize just in case any yeast has remained in suspension because normally if the mead warms back up the yeast will become alive again.

    I never worry about the light from the fridge.

    Just my 2 cents, but I'm sometimes overly cautious, but as a renter I don't want bottle bombs staining someones ceilings.
    " ...no sense hauling empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " -TheFlyingBeer (on HomeBrewTalk)

  12. #52

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    cool, i plan on racking one more time before bottling, so i will stabilize it after i rack it. Thanks for the help
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    8,394

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    Sunlight is most damaging, followed by fluorescent, the total exposure of maybe 5 minutes a day of incandescent fridge light isn't going to hurt anything...
    "The main ingredient needed is 'time' followed closely by 'patience'." - The Bishop 2013
    "When you consider that laziness and procrastination are the fundamentals of great mead, it is a miracle that the mazer cup happens." Medsen Fey, 2014
    "Sure it can be done. I've never heard of it, but I do things I've never heard if all the time. That is the beauty of being a brewer!" - Loveofrose, 2014
    "I tend to....um, er, experiment, and go outside the box. Sometimes outside the whole department store." - Ebonhawk, 2014

  14. #54

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    ok, so today i am going to stabilize my mead and back sweeten it before the bulk age. Am i risking a bottle bomb by rubber stopping it after I bring it to taste? Or should i re rack it one more time with an airlock after stabilizing it to be safe?
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  15. #55

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    It does take a bit for the stabilizing to take effect so it is best to keep it under airlock for a while and make sure it worked. Some yeasts seem to fight through stabilization and may take another half dose of so.
    " ...no sense hauling empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " -TheFlyingBeer (on HomeBrewTalk)

  16. #56

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    ok, so yesterday i re racked me first batch over a campden tablet, and let it sit for about 3.5 hours and added sorbate. I was planning on giving this a week to do what it does, then back sweetening and aging for a while.

    Is one week to long? what is a proper amount of time it takes to stabilize?
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  17. #57

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    I usually wait somewhere between 2 days and a week, but I've seen people just put stabilizers and whatever they are using to back-sweeten all in at the same time (Joe's Quick Pyment comes to mind). If you haven't back-sweetened before just be aware that if the mead was clear it will get cloudy again and will take time to clear again.
    " ...no sense hauling empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " -TheFlyingBeer (on HomeBrewTalk)

  18. #58

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    ok, well originally, i used a campden tablet on my first rack (guy at brew store said i didnt need anything else), then back sweetened and put in the fridge for a week. then I did as described in my previous post
    Chop1620
    “The brain is like a muscle. When it is in use we feel very good. Understanding is Joyous.”
    Carl Sagan

  19. #59

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    The Campden Tablet at each racking is sort of an older practice and I don't really know anyone who does it (especially if their Campden's are Sodium Meta BiSulfite). I sometimes use Campden 24 hours before I pitch yeast when I make a melomel, than I use a one when I stabilize and if it has been bulk aging for a while I may hit it again right before bottling because they have the effect of preventing oxidation. I know Akuek recently posted a schedule of something like 1 at stabilizing, 1 3 months later and another at every year of bulk aging, so as you can see there really is no set standard for their usage.
    " ...no sense hauling empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " -TheFlyingBeer (on HomeBrewTalk)

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