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Ratio question of honey V water and also Brix reading.

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Mattzak

Worker Bee
Registered Member
Feb 15, 2020
57
2
8
Central California
Hey all, my first post and first attempt.

I -did- try to look up some references before asking, so hopefully its an easy redirect or easy answer.
Recipe attempted:

3# Honey, warmed in original container
.75-ish gal distilled water, approximately 70* F (This is part of my question...)
Red Star Premier Blanc yeast, started 20 minutes prior to pitching into the must in approximately 100*F water, set in a glass tupperware with the lid left on loosely.
In lieu of going on about my sanitation process, I'll just say it was very thorough.
I read many articles suggesting that I didn't need to use nutrients but now I'm re-thinking that a little - however I'll have to go to a store tomorrow (48 hours after pitching).

After adding about a half gallon of water into the carboy, I added the three lbs of warmed honey and shook it like mad to mix. By the time I was done I had about an inch of foam which made the hydrometer hard to read. I took pictures and approximated the Brix to about 37 prior to pitching (Does that sound right??)

I then added distilled water back into the jug but could only fit about .75 gal of the container into the carboy before it filled up, including the pitched yeast.
So it ended up being filled to within two inches from the stopper with 3 lbs of honey and about .75 gal of water. I feel like I didn't account for the displacement of the water by the honey and assumed this was "part" of the gallon batch.

I am wondering if the Brix is high because that's normal right now or because I have an incorrect ratio of honey and water. I was shooting for about 14.5% originally and now I'm glad I didn't add a lot of fancier (expensive) ingredients for my trial run. I am also curious if I were to get Nutrients for this batch, is it too late to add at around 48 hours after pitching.

-Honey vs Water?
-Brix of 37?
-Too late for nutrients?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

EricHartman

Lifetime GotMead Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Mar 4, 2019
498
162
43
Indiana
In general I'll dilute my honey to the SG I'm aiming for based on the alcohol content I want in the mead. I'll continue to add honey and water to get the volume and gravity I'm aiming for.

Yeast nitrogen nutrients will help your mead making considerably so it's definitely a good idea. You want your nutrient additions to occur prior to 1/3 sugar break so the yeast can take up the nitrogen & nutrients without issue.

Unfortunately I can't comment on your brix question. I speak in specific gravity only so I don't understand what 37 brix is... Though that does sound really high
 

Squatchy

Lifetime GotMead Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Nov 3, 2014
5,542
261
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Denver
You're looking at 22% ABV if the yeast could get through it all. I highly doubt it without rehydrating with Go-ferm, O2 additions, and a good feeding schedule. You better go feed it. And if you can put it in a place that it might stay around 60F. You will also have mead filling up your airlock
 

4give

Honey Master
Registered Member
Jan 1, 2018
402
76
28
Montrose, CO
Without being able to truly see it, your ratio tells me you should be at about 14.5% ABV, but your brix reading would be about as Squatchy says - 22%. If it is that high, then your yeast likely won't chew through it all before passing out (my term). You should rehydrate with go-ferm or similar, and if the brix is truly that high, you're going to want to feed it a lot of O2 (at least for those first 3 days). I might consider finding a food grade bucket that's about 1.5 gallons and tansferring it to there. The CO2 from the ferment will protect it as long as you have it covered to keep dirt and stuff out. Once ferment is done, or close to it, you can rack to the jug (the whole biomass if it still has some fermenting to do).

It's not too late for nutrients, but you're behind schedule for SNA.

You had asked these similar questions in your other post "Messed up the ratio?".
 

Squatchy

Lifetime GotMead Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
Nov 3, 2014
5,542
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Denver
If you truly are using this high of an OG you will want to pitch 5 grams per as well
 

Mattzak

Worker Bee
Registered Member
Feb 15, 2020
57
2
8
Central California
:eek:
Thanks for noticing, I thought it didn't successfully post for some reason so I re-typed it. -_-' My bad, still learning the forums apparently.

Thanks also for the advice, this batch was meant to get my feet wet as I knew I was going to have some hang-ups and mistakes. I have a habit of jumping in feet first and learning to swim after.

What I've learned:
-I used onestep instead of star san to sterilize, big whoops.
-Was very confused about how diluted my honey would have been in that gallon carboy (could have anticipated that maybe)
-Didn't add nutrients at all. Bought some now.
-I barely swirled it around on day 3 to add more oxygen.
-Didn't consider saving extra must for topping off later.

Yeah, mistakes were made. I'm planning out a second batch to try out with my wife, spending a lot of time writing out notes for her to follow so I can explain things step by step and teach her. I find that teaching people what you "think you know" helps solidify things in my own head - though I usually credit my sources either out loud or in my head so I know I'm not pushing my own nonsense. It also has a nice benefit of pointing out what I don't know for sure. I'm fine if this first batch gets tossed out, its great to hear where people suggest to adjust. In the future I'm going to buy a larger bucket for fermenting, but right now that's not an immediate thing because I already spent a bit of money on gallon jugs.

I purchased Star san, fermK nutrients, better knowledge overall from podcasts, lots more reading in the forums, and separately also delving into the got mead radio. I started with the balancing flavors episode from 2019 and am already finishing the second episode of Myths of meadmaking, which includes none other than Squatchy - who I guessed from having read a few of his posts =) Thanks for the info and also looking into this Squatchy.

I will be putting in another post in a bit regarding my future batch probably later this morning once I look into a few other things. I plan on doing it quite a bit different. One of the things I'm having a hard time finding out is what or how you "keep" extra must in.

Should I just take a little from my original jug and put aside in something(to keep the same consistency or ratio of ingredients)? How much should I keep aside? Should that be stored in the fridge? And another question, should I keep the "extra" must for topping off in a much smaller container to minimize the amount of air that contacts the fluid or does that even matter when I add it later to a nearly "fermented" batch after racking.

Any info would be appreciated, thanks!


In regards to this batch, its still bubbling along every other second, resting in ambient air of 68 and the sticky temp gauge I stuck to the glass reads 70-72. Is there any way to help this batch along or have I bought the ticket and now it is time to just ride the ride...?
This is day 11.
Can I still add nutrients? Should I?
Should I mix in more O2 somehow?
 

bernardsmith

Got Mead? Patron
GotMead Patron
Sep 1, 2013
1,611
32
48
Saratoga Springs , NY
Two thoughts - a good rule of thumb is to assume that 1 lb of honey dissolved in water to make a total volume of must of 1 US gallon will give you a gravity reading of 1.035. Two pounds of honey dissolved in water to make the same 1 US gallon total will give you a reading of 1.070... etc. etc. In my opinion, if you know this rule of thumb you plan your mead by determining your starting gravity BECAUSE you have already determined the ABV you want to bottle (and your potential ABV is - another rule of thumb which is to assume that your mead will finish brut dry (1.000 or less) and so you multiply the starting gravity by 131 (or if you have a calculator handy 131.25).

2. I would think that using distilled water means that you begin with two disadvantages. The first is that your water has none of the minerals that the yeast desperately need to remain healthy and the second is that distilled water may pull minerals from the yeast to maintain a chemical balance. Not a chemist so I may be very wrong but if you want to use distilled water rather than good spring water you may want to add all the nutrients to the water before you let it touch either the honey or the yeast.

Normally, you would add nutrients only after the yeast have shown some activity. But if you do that then why not add good spring water. In the same way that we don't typically drink distilled water (without risk of damage to our teeth at the very least), unless you live in a place where water is not potable. I am not sure that I can see good sense in making mead with distilled water unless you are a microbiologist experimenting with specific nutrients to observe their impact on fermentation. Then it makes sense to control (ie remove) what nutrients might be in the water so you are dealing only with what you have measured and added.
 

Shelley

Honey Master
Registered Member
Sep 13, 2013
365
32
28
Harford, NY
MeadMagic.com
I'm coming in a little late here, but it sounds to me like your brix reading is off. I make one gallon batches with that ratio regularly (one quart honey or about 3 pounds, 3 quarts water) and my initial SG readings are more like 1.12 or 1.13, which is more in line with BernardSmith's calculations.
 

Mattzak

Worker Bee
Registered Member
Feb 15, 2020
57
2
8
Central California
I’m kind of thinking something is off. Though I don’t know what...
I did just finish shaking the holy heck out of it right before measuring.

But also I rechecked a couple days ago after nearly 3 weeks and found it at 1.100

Yeh, Dunno what’s going on, but it tastes like booze and honey... it’s not good by any discerning taste, but it’s not vinegar! XD
 
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