the honey at the bottom is slowly being eaten up!
I just want to check that you did dissolve the honey into the water correct? There really should have been no boundary or separation between the water and honey prior to pitching your yeast. If not you'll want to sanitize a spoon/mixer and stir the crap out of your must until the honey is all dissolved into the water. This is much easier on the front end with warmer water but either way you'll want the honey fully dissolved or you are rather likely to end up with some pretty funky mead.
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Since you're new to all this I'm going to share my link blast with you... it's definitely my most popular post! I poured over gotmead and a few other sites when I first got into this about a year ago and kept notes on where I found things.
Here is a wealth of good information:
The GotMead Modern Mead Making Podcast series on the procedure of making mead right:
9-5-17 Ryan Carlson - Modern Mead Making - Yeast in Mead:
9-5-17-ryan-carlson-modern-mead-making-yeast
9-12-17 Ryan Carlson - Modern Meadmaking - Making Happy Yeast:
9-12-17-ryan-carlson-making-modern-mead-yeast-keep-happy
9-19-17 Making Modern Mead - SNA, Racking, Stabilizing and Aging:
9-19-17-ryan-making-modern-mead-snas-racking-stabilizing-aging
9-26-17 Making Modern Mead - Sulfites and Sorbates:
9-26-17-ryan-tom-repas-moder-mead-making-sulfiting-sorbating
11-14-17 Ryan Carlson - Modern Mead Making - fine tuning mead:
11-14-17-ryan-carlson-science-fine-tuning-mead/
The only significant, procedural question, you be left with by the end: How exactly do I cold crash?
Either Vicky or AJ on the podcast 9/25/18 define it as: Cold crash - place your mead (still in primary but gravity no longer changing thus no longer fermenting) in a fridge around 4C for 1+ weeks (generally 1-2 weeks). Helps with flocculation - or clearing the mead by getting yeasts/proteins to stick together.
*some dated information in those podcasts is the concept of degassing. They advise degassing routinely (2-3 times daily) but it is now generally accepted that degassing is only needed to avoid mead eruptions when adding nutrient additions rather than helping the yeasts avoid a toxic environment. So generally it is not done on a schedule but just prior to nutrient additions.
That's probably 10-12h of podcast. Quite a bit of it is banter/filler... but there is gold in there, even in the banter. I've listened to each of them at least twice; taking detailed notes!
The modern mead making series continues from there but they dive into specific meads like
pyments,
cysers,
Sessions,
Braggots and I've not dived deeply there yet.
The primary - the period when the yeast are fermenting the honey
The secondary - the period when the mead has been racked off of the "gross lees" (sediment from primary) and the mead flavor is adjusted/augmented
Extra goodies I've found helpful:
A very help glossary:
https://morewinemaking.com/articles/wine_terminology - fermenters talk weird sometimes!
https://morewinemaking.com/articles/SO2_management additional information on how to sulfite stabilize your mead
https://www.bjcp.org/mead/Mead_Study.pdf - basically a book on this stuff. Some seems out of date but you'll be able to spot it after understanding the podcasts. very helpful section on "balance" & mead faults.
YouTube video on
Spirit indication test for determining the final ABV when additional sugars/liquids have been added or the original SG is unknown
TOSNA - Tailored Organic Staggered Nitrogen Additions calculator honey is nitrogen poor so mead needs nitrogen additions to support the yeast
https://morewinemaking.com/articles/Fining_finished_white_wine Information on agents used to help clear your mead. The BJCP "book" has information on this as well.
https://morewinemaking.com/articles/wine_bench_trials - how to perform a bench trial
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Since I update this often enough, and post it frequently, here is a link to my user notes where the most updated version will be:
https://www.gotmead.com/forum/usernote.php?u=38558