• PATRONS: Did you know we've a chat function for you now? Look to the bottom of the screen, you can chat, set up rooms, talk to each other individually or in groups! Click 'Chat' at the right side of the chat window to open the chat up.
  • Love Gotmead and want to see it grow? Then consider supporting the site and becoming a Patron! If you're logged in, click on your username to the right of the menu to see how as little as $30/year can get you access to the patron areas and the patron Facebook group and to support Gotmead!
  • We now have a Patron-exclusive Facebook group! Patrons my join at The Gotmead Patron Group. You MUST answer the questions, providing your Patron membership, when you request to join so I can verify your Patron membership. If the questions aren't answered, the request will be turned down.

Astringent Taste

Barrel Char Wood Products

Alchemist

NewBee
Registered Member
May 7, 2011
11
0
0
On an island in a river
After having "discovered" Meads last year, I tried my hand at making a batch. Brewed my first batch on 10/08/2010 and filtered it today into a carboy since the yeast bubbles have finally stopped. Original specific gravity was 1.102. Final specific gravity was 1.130. The results are drinkable, but not smooth. It leaves an aftertaste that my wife describes as astringent. What did I do wrong? AND, what can I do to improve the results? Thanks for the assistance!
John
 

Alchemist

NewBee
Registered Member
May 7, 2011
11
0
0
On an island in a river
My recipe was simple and, being new to the process I followed it to the letter (except that I used clover honey rather than orange blossom honey).
15 pounds of honey
4 gallons of water
2 teaspoons yeast nutrient
1 teaspoon yeast energizer
10 grams lalvin

I just pulled another sample to get a specific gravity reading and AToE is correct... the scale has 1.000 above the 1.100 and must be read down rather than up like a thermometer. An amateur mistake - sorry. So my final specific gravity reading should be 1.030.

Looking forward to your suggestions so that we can enjoy this first effort and only make perfect batches hereafter.
 

mmclean

Honey Master
Registered Member
Jul 22, 2010
1,135
2
38
Tennessee Valley
Hi John,

First of all, Welcome to GOMEAD?

What you made is refered to as a "traditional" mead. All the taste and smell comes from just the honey and yeast. So when you say you "only" changed the honey, you chaged the whole taste profile. This may not be a bad thing, but sure is a game changer.

Traditionals will take a longer time to smooth out and come together. Give it a year or so and it will show much improvment.

Some more info will be helpful:

What was your fermentation temperature?

Lalvin is a brand name with many types of yeast, which one did you use?
 

Loadnabox

NewBee
Registered Member
Apr 17, 2011
849
3
0
Ohio
also remember to remove as much head space as possible. O2 in the bulk aging will turn your wine into vinegar which won't help much either.

I don't have much experience with this but I've heard of two methods, either putting sanitized marbles into the jar to displace the air or injecting CO2 into the head space (which is heavier and will rest on top of the wine in the jar)
 

Alchemist

NewBee
Registered Member
May 7, 2011
11
0
0
On an island in a river
Wish I could tell you that it was fermented at a steady temperature. But being in an old house - over the winter - there was a temperature range between mid sixties and low seventies.
The Lalvin was purchased from a supplier called "Homebrew Heaven" and was labeled as #71B-1122 Narbonne Wine Yeast.
Air headspace... doesn't the fermenting process of giving off the gas replace the air in the fermenter? If not, then I guess that I'll have to deal with that on the next batch.
I'm hoping that the response, "Traditionals will take a longer time to smooth out and come together. Give it a year or so and it will show much improvment." will prove to be accurate. HOWEVER, if there is anything else that could/should be done to rescue this batch, please do not hesitate to let me know.
Thanks!
 

mmclean

Honey Master
Registered Member
Jul 22, 2010
1,135
2
38
Tennessee Valley
71B is a very fast starting strain that produces round, smooth, more aromatic wines that mature quickly. Great for blush and residual sugar white wines. Lots of aroma and an alcohol tolerance of 14%. 59 to 86 degree fermentation range.

Seems your fermenting temps are fine. Above 70 can be bad for the yeast, but should be fine. 6-7 months is way to early to judge this mead. Give it another 6 months or so and taste again. This being a sweet mead should help it to come together a little quicker.

Patience young Jedi, the Force will yet come to you.
 

Loadnabox

NewBee
Registered Member
Apr 17, 2011
849
3
0
Ohio
...Air headspace... doesn't the fermenting process of giving off the gas replace the air in the fermenter? If not, then I guess that I'll have to deal with that on the next batch....



That is true while it's fermenting, but inevitably, fermentation will stop at some point, too high ABV, no more sugar left etc. It's at this point where it's considered to be "bulk aging" and aside from perhaps the last few remnants of CO2 releasing from the brew, it won't be outgassing at all. During the bulk aging you need to consider methods of removing head space.
 

Alchemist

NewBee
Registered Member
May 7, 2011
11
0
0
On an island in a river
So, even with an airlock in place, when the fermentation stops the fermenter gets regulart air back into it.
Not meaning to sound dense. Just want to understand if/how the air that has been displaced gets back in.
 

Loadnabox

NewBee
Registered Member
Apr 17, 2011
849
3
0
Ohio
So, even with an airlock in place, when the fermentation stops the fermenter gets regulart air back into it.
Not meaning to sound dense. Just want to understand if/how the air that has been displaced gets back in.

the airlock will prevent air from coming back in, however you will want to check on your mead once in a while, check the SG to make sure it hasn't resumed fermentation and of course give it a taste to see if it's coming to the point where you want to bottle it. Each time you do this you will have to remove the airlock and will introduce some air that could lead to oxidation.

This means for the most part you won't need to worry about it, but once every month to three months you will need to do something to make sure to leave as little head space as possible after you thief off a sample :)
 

Alchemist

NewBee
Registered Member
May 7, 2011
11
0
0
On an island in a river
Thank you for explaining. Now it is logical to me.
I have joined a number of sites over the years for different topics. I must say that the people on this one are very supportive, knowledgable, and upbeat. What a great experience. Thanks to all!
 

Oskaar

Got Mead Partner
Administrator
Dec 26, 2004
7,874
8
0
34
The OC
Hello Alchemist,

Welcome to Got Mead?

A couple of things:

You need to rack off the lees. The Narbonne yeast you used (71B-1122) is the culprit for your astringent flavor in the mead. This specific yeast strain with throw reductive flavors and aromas if your mead sits on it for extended periods.

Stop using teaspoons and pounds as your de facto measuring standards and start using grams and either brix (easier to do in your head calculations) or specific gravity. Honey varies in sugar content from type to type and year to year so 3 pounds of orange blossom honey will vary in sugar content from California to Florida. If you measure your must in brix or SG you will be better able to dial in your recipes for consistency and final gravity than if you try to estimate by using pounds. Aim for consistency and predictability.

Get a premium nutrient and find a nutrient dosing and aeration method that works for you. I vary both my nutrient dosing and aeration regimens from batch to batch depending on the style, ingredients and desired outcome. I'll say it again and to deaf ears most of the time. Choose 1 mead and make it over and over and over until you can make it without even thinking about it; and the quality of the end product is consistently good. Once you can do that you will be able to make stellar meads consistently once you branch out into other styles.

The more you hop around making wildly different meads, the less you dial-in your basic skills and the longer it will take you to get in touch with your inner meadmaker and get a sense of your own style.

As long as you have your airlock topped off correctly (to the fill line with liquid, I use Vodka) you will be fine as you go forward. Be sure to check your mead every couple of months for aging maturity and changes in the flavor. You should consider oaking this batch as the oak will pull out some of the astringency and temper it with tannin and wood sugars. Use cubes, dominoes, spirals or staves, not chips as they tend to leave a signature (and in my opinion, cheap woody flavor). Unless, that is you use the chips in the primary where they will give good characters and provide more fermentation surface area.

Once again, Welcome to Got Mead? and we wish you the very best in mead, meadmaking and mead drinking!

Cheers,

Oskaar
 

AToE

NewBee
Registered Member
Jun 8, 2009
4,066
3
0
Calgary AB Canada
While I'm pretty timid to dissagree with Oskaar (especially since I agree with 99% of his post entirely), I think pretty much every mead maker has to go through a period of being unfocussed. Most people's first year (for some people even longer) is spent making, this, that, anything they can.

Until you've been making mead for at least more than a year, the idea of making the same mead repeatedly is very tough. Both because you always have new ideas, and because it simply is impossible for it to have aged long enough for you to even know if it's worked out (any judgements made on a mead before it's had at least a year to age are essentially wild guesses, at least until you've been making it for years and have learned what to expect from aging).

Now, I read that advice about making the same thing over and over from Oskaar early in my mead making, both in other people's threads, and at least once in one of my own when I was going off the deep end trying to making something so different from my previous batches that I would essentially learn nothing from it.

So... not entirely sure what the whole point of this post is! Oskaar's advice to pick a style you think you'll like and start doing it over and over (also I'd recommend making multiple batches at once that are identical except for one variable, what yeast, temp, amount of fruit, etc - I think that can be invaluable) is some of the best advice you can get around here. Starting working on that as soon as possible into your mead making will serve you well.

I took that advice to heart very early and have focussed most of my efforts on just a few styles of mead, 2 in particular. But I guess the point of my post is, that if you're a newb, don't stress too too much about being scientific about it and thinking too far into the future.

Have fun, ferment this that, whatever, but the second you find one you think has potential, start making it over and over, making it in multiple comparison batches at once, etc. That's my version of Oskaar's advice anyways! :eek: (I guess I started this post thinking I was dissagreeing with him, turned out I was just adding my own spin on it based on the meadmaker's experience... )

EDIT: Right, think I realized what I'd meant to say originally - wanted to reassure Oskaar that that piece of advice doesn't fall of deaf ears necessarily, just that when he gives that advice to someone who hasn't been making mead for longer than a year at least it's pretty difficult for them to follow it right away, but later when they mellow out I'll bet the remember his advice and are glad they got it!
 

Alchemist

NewBee
Registered Member
May 7, 2011
11
0
0
On an island in a river
All sounds like great advice. And, yes, it is my intent to stick with one mead until I feel really comfortable before branching out into other options. Based on my past experiences making dandelion wine, I find that to be sound advice.
Oak chips it is! Can it be over done in terms of quantity or length of time? I have racked the mead off into the second stage before bottling. I have a full 5 gallons plus.
 

mmclean

Honey Master
Registered Member
Jul 22, 2010
1,135
2
38
Tennessee Valley
While I am still in my first year as a meadcrafter, I will be so bold as to add my 2 cents into the pot.

I think it is a good idea to first try a few different proven recipes. Follow those recipes to the letter, ingredents and proccess. As your first years batches come to age, pick one that you like and hone your skill on this one recipe.

I seem to be a little slow with this myself. I still have a few proven recipes I must try before I settle down to making just one mead. However, when I do I know it will be a dark berry melomel. :)
 
Barrel Char Wood Products

Viking Brew Vessels - Authentic Drinking Horns