• PATRONS: Did you know we've a chat function for you now? Look to the bottom of the screen, you can chat, set up rooms, talk to each other individually or in groups! Click 'Chat' at the right side of the chat window to open the chat up.
  • Love Gotmead and want to see it grow? Then consider supporting the site and becoming a Patron! If you're logged in, click on your username to the right of the menu to see how as little as $30/year can get you access to the patron areas and the patron Facebook group and to support Gotmead!
  • We now have a Patron-exclusive Facebook group! Patrons my join at The Gotmead Patron Group. You MUST answer the questions, providing your Patron membership, when you request to join so I can verify your Patron membership. If the questions aren't answered, the request will be turned down.

Slight sulfur smell in nose

Barrel Char Wood Products

mfalenski

Worker Bee
Registered Member
I tried to keep this one covered while in the fermenter, it did get hit with flourescent when I was working on it, but not much. I didnt think about it being light struck though. I might put some out in the light and see what develops from that though!

There was about 1/2" lees on the bottom, it was fairly well compacted, too. I added some bentonite to this batch pre-fermentation to see how it would help in clearing.

I threw in a few grams of hops to dry hop it, or to help mask the smell if I cant get rid of it.
Taste is great, just that slight hint in the aroma thats off puting.

I might try adding some tetra hop extract to another batch to see if I can pull this one off.

It's strange though because I made four batches of this so far and the big differences were the amount of honey used and the yeast used. I used a Wyeast sweet mead yeast in one that was pretty good, and in another batch used half the honey to make a lower gravity mead. Those both were fine and were treated the same way.
 

Medsen Fey

Fuselier since 2007
Premium Patron
Well fermenting with Bentonite can definitely lead to increased H2S production. In white winemaking, some sources say not to keep it on lees that were fermented with Bentonite, so perhaps if you leave the Bentonite out all together you'd avoid the problem. Alternatively, you may need to rack it off the lees even sooner, but it is still very early to have autolysis. Was there still a lot of hop residue in the lees when you last racked it?

There'd certainly be nothing wrong with trying a different yeast with this recipe as well. D47 maybe?
 

mfalenski

Worker Bee
Registered Member
I put a piece of copper wire in & aererated it two nights ago, I noticed a drastic drop in smell last night (from a little to just a hint if youre smelling for it) I also aererated it last night just a bit. I was only going to let the copper stay in it for 3-4 days tops and then let it sit for a week and rack off of it again.

I just wanted to test the pre-fermentation Bentonite, looks like I found my answer!

There wasnt a lot of hop residue at all. I was thinking about doing this one with a D47.
Looks like I almost have to now, for research purposes! :)
 

AToE

NewBee
Registered Member
Jun 8, 2009
4,066
3
0
Calgary AB Canada
I could be wrong, but I think copper treatments are usually more like 10 minutes to an hour than measured in days... obviously surface area plays a big part in that though!

To be safe, you might want to take some precautions to make sure the copper precipitates out, I can't remember how that's done but someone else can probably explain it.

I don't know how much copper has to be in there to poison you, but better safe than sorry!
 

dr9

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 12, 2009
386
2
0
athens ga
How much stripped 24 AWG copper wire is appropriate for one gallon of sulphuric stink wine? I have about 6 miles of it.

Mfalenski, how much did you use?
 

mfalenski

Worker Bee
Registered Member
From what I've read it really seems to depend on the surface area, and the addition of ascorbic acid. I have a piece of 12 gauge wire thats just long enough to reach to the neck of my 6.5G carboy so I can pull it out easily. I've seen mention of hours to days. I removed the copper wire, so now I am going to fine it and let it sit, then use a tight filter & let that site for a while before bottling (and probably filtering again.)

I should have tested to see exactly what I am dealing with here. I was doing research and found a test where you use a copper sulfate solution, and a copper sulfate / ascorbic acid solution to determine if its a disulfide, H2S, mercaptan problem. Its still pretty early on, so I might try that to see if I can get a better handle on what may have happened.
 

wayneb

Lifetime Patron
Lifetime GotMead Patron
From the behavior you observed using just the copper wire, you probably hadn't had any appreciable conversion of mercaptans to disulfides. If the reduction in stink factor is sufficient for you, but there is still a hint of it present, you can be reasonably sure that the vast majority of copper ions you introduced from the wire have reacted with the mercaptans in the presence of sulfur dioxide to produce copper sulfide (CuS). Copper sulfide is a black compound, and it is completely inert in water and alcohol, so it will precipitate to the bottom of your carboy and if you rack carefully to make sure that you don't take any of the lees layer, you can be pretty sure that most of the introduced copper will be left behind as sulfide.

Slick, huh? ;D
 
Barrel Char Wood Products

Viking Brew Vessels - Authentic Drinking Horns