Well that is a very basic first go of things but it clearly did something as you are tasting some alcohol. If I had to guess it is still fermenting or the fermentation stopped early leaving significant honey in the must. There's nothing wrong with a very basic approach but you'll find you get better/more predictable results with a more modern protocol.
To start you will want a bit of gear:
- most importantly a hydrometer. loosely speaking the hydrometer measures the amount of dissolved sugars in the must (honey mixed with water for fermentation is a must). This will help you know what is occurring as fermentation proceeds. It will also help you get an estimate on the alcohol by volume (ABV) you have produced once the fermentation is complete.
- wine yeast rather than bread yeasts
- a yeast rehydration product such as go-firm/go-firm protect evolution
- a yeast nutrient such as fermaid-O
- sanitizer such as starsan to help keep unwanted yeast/bacteria out of your must
Additional helpful gear:
- A fermentation vessel & carboy with airlocks will also be helpful/easier but not strictly necessary up front.
- scale that will measure up to 20+ grams in milligram increments
- autosyphon/racking cane with tubing
- turkey baster
Most of this is not overly expensive when compared to the honey we use in the must. They are easily obtained on amazon or a site dedicated to fermentation such as morewinemaking.com.
Now for the knowledge component of things. The basic approach will make alcohol/mead. It will just do it in a very unpredictable fashion. If you want to make mead with some degree of predictability then invest some time in the following:
The procedure of making mead right:
Modern mead making podcast series:
The only significant, procedural question, you be left with by the end: How exactly do I cold crash?
Either Vicky or AJ on the podcast 9/25/18 define it as: Cold crash - place your mead (still in primary but gravity no longer changing thus no longer fermenting) in a fridge around 4C for 1+ weeks (generally 1-2 weeks). Helps with flocculation - or clearing the mead by getting yeasts/proteins to stick together.
That's probably 10-12h of podcast. Quite a bit of it is banter/filler... but there is gold in there, even in the banter. I've listened to each of them at least twice; taking detailed notes!
The modern mead making series continues from there but they dive into specific meads like pyments, cysers, etc. That was a little scary for me so I stuck with a traditional out of the gate! I will go into them with fervor once I am no longer doubting myself on the basics.
Extra goodies I've found helpful:
A very help glossary:
https://morewinemaking.com/articles/wine_terminology - fermenters talk weird sometimes!
https://morewinemaking.com/articles/SO2_management additional information on how to stabilize your mead
https://www.bjcp.org/mead/Mead_Study.pdf - basically a book on this stuff. Some seems out of date but you'll be able to spot it after understanding the podcasts. very helpful section on "balance" & mead faults.
9-25-18 Ryan Carlson - Pairing Yeast to Meads:
9-25-18-ryan-carlson-pairing-yeast-to-meads
10-2-18 Ryan Carlson – Pairing Yeasts to Meads – Part 2:
10-2-18-ryan-carlson-pairing-yeasts-to-meads-part-2
8-29-17 Ryan Carlson - Oaking Your Mead:
8-29-17-ryan-carlson-oaking-mead
that oaking podcast is well supported by this supplement:
https://morewinemaking.com/web_files/intranet.morebeer.com/files/oakinfopaper09.pdf
Squatchy on acid adjustment/additions for balance
Squatchy on basic mead concepts:
http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php/27263-Please-read-this!!!/page2 a large post that details much of the podcasts above
Loveofrose detailed oaking experiment:
http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php/27970-The-Barrel-Mimic-Experiment
I know that seems like a lot but you will enjoy the hobby much more if you understand it and get the results you set out to obtain!