Absinthe: Facts and Fantasies; and an introduction from a newbie

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Wormwood

NewBee
Registered Member
Jul 19, 2004
3
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www.wormwoodsociety.org
Long time lurker, first time poster.

It's really refreshing for a change to come onto another forum and find that some people have actually done their absinthe homework. There is some very good information here and there in some of the threads—albeit interspersed with many of the usual misconceptions. I run the Wormwood Society, and spend entirely too much of my time crusading against all the myth and superstition around absinthe.

I was going to post in any number of the threads about absinthe here, but most of them were fairly old, so I took the advice of the big red letters and decided to post a new one.

Just to bring everyone up to speed on some of the finer points:

• Neither absinthe, wormwood or thujone are "drugs" in the commonly accepted sense of the word as a recreational or federally scheduled and controlled substance (and yes, everyone points out that alcohol is a drug, but we're talking about wormwood). Thujone, a neuro-toxin, has no "effects" which would render it of any recreational use. Thujone is present only in small quantities in authentic absinthe—either pre-ban or modern. Thujone has essentially been undeservedly fetishized by those seeking new forms of consciousness alteration. The truth is, absinthe is little more than ordinary herbal liquor that tastes predominantly of anise. Turkish raki, Lebanese arak, and Greek ouzo are all incredibly similar.

• Absinthe—or any thujone-containing beverage or finished food—is still illegal to manufacture or import for sale for human consumption in the US. It is also prohibited from importation by the same regulations—the FDA enforces the former, while the CBP (Customs and Border Protection) enforces the latter. This notwithstanding, it is readily imported by hundreds of people everyday, with very little interference. It is not a punishable criminal offense, and is subject only to confiscation. This is extremely rare unless the US mail is used—USPS prohibits any alcohol, even wine, in the mail.

• Absinthe is a distilled liquor. It cannot be made by maceration alone. As most of you are aware, wormwood is insanely bitter even in very small amounts. This bitterness is left behind during distillation. Wormwood can be used (non-commercially) in ales and other beverages for it's bitter qualities, but so little is used that toxicity is hardly an issue. The flavor of un-distilled wormwood is absolutely different from distilled wormwood; after distillation it has a fresh, very mildly minty, herbal taste.

• It is a federal offense to distill any quantity of any kind of alcohol for beverage purposes—even those cute, lab-glass desktop distillers sold by Wine Enthusiast are legal to own, but illegal to operate. It is a federal offense to own any unregistered still with over a one-gallon capacity. As mentioned in an earlier thread, however, there are very few instances of hobbyist level home distillers being prosecuted. While general home distilling is wide-spread (maybe in the thousands, certainly in the hundreds) and openly discussed at homedistillers.org, there is a tiny (maybe a couple dozen), very secretive and tight-knit cadre of hobbyist absinthe distillers. It's a specialized craft and they guard their secrets jealously. They also make absinthe that far surpasses even the best premium commercial absinthe on the market. I know of none crazy enough to try to sell it. While the revenuers tend to turn a blind eye to the self-providing hobbyist, they pounce with the full force of the law on entrepreneurial bootleggers.

• The vast majority of absinthe being sold today is fake crap marketed at the gullible. Czech and German varieties, usually labeled "absinth," are not distilled but made from adding essential oils to NGS (neutral grain spirits). Very few of them come anywhere close to approximating the flavor of authentic absinthe, and in fact many of them are intentionally far more bitter than absinthe would ever be. This is from a complete misunderstanding and ignorance of what absinthe actually is. Additionally, the "Czech method" of lighting an absinth-soaked sugar cube, and variants thereof, are completely spurious inventions of the late 1990's. Fire has no place in absinthe preparation.

• Stick with French and Swiss brands and you can't go too far wrong. Most Spanish varieties taste like nothing more than a mouth full of Good & Plentys. A well-made absinthe is primarily anise flavored, but also has a much more complex, subtle and interesting flavor and fragrance. Avoid anything spelled "absinth."

For much more complete information, read the FAQ and other sections at the Wormwood Society, and if you have further interest, feel free to join our discussion forum.


Me and mead:

I may know a lot about absinthe, but I hope I can catch up in the mead department! Mead was the first drink I ever brewed, back in the late 70's—mostly metheglin. I pretty much stuck with that for a few years and then in the mid to late 80's started making beer, mostly brown ales and stout. Then a decade and a half of urban apartment-living with no space intervened and I'm way behind the times—I missed the explosion.

I tried to do a mead last year and for the first time ever, it got completely stuck. I also found out that honey prices have gone way up. Used to be cheap to make mead.

Anyway, thanks for the wonderful forum, it's good to be here.

Cheers!
~ Hiram
 
Hi Hiram! Welcome to GM, and thanks for the *very* interesting discourse on absinthe. I have to admit, I believed the popular line myself. Its interesting to learn more from an enthusiast.

I think you'll find that here you learn just about anything you care to about making mead, and the folks here are from all levels of experience, and all walks of life, from around the world. Just ask any questions you have about mead, and someone will jump in, sometimes several someones.

Also, check out the main site at http://www.gotmead.com/index.php for another 1600 pages or so of info on making mead. Best place to start is with Angus' 'Newbee Guide to Making Mead', which you can find under 'Make Your Own'. I'll be putting up the rest of the chapters he sent me probably tomorrow.

Again, welcome, and look out, you'll likely have another home-alcohol habit to support soon!
 
Thanks for that post, I have had a look at your website, and im begging to see how misinformed I was on several aspects of the drink.

I have done a bit of reading on absinthe myself, but ill defiantly have to catch up on some reading.

As a side note, you can own a still in Australia with a 5L or less capacity, for distilling water and essential oils, if your in New Zealand your lucky, because you can distill alcohol legally <as far as im aware.>

Oh one question however, there are lots of verities of wormwood, are they all safe to use? <if you chose to attempt to make your own>

Mu
 
Vicky the Gotmead Webwench said:
I think you'll find that here you learn just about anything you care to about making mead, and the folks here are from all levels of experience, and all walks of life, from around the world. Just ask any questions you have about mead, and someone will jump in, sometimes several someones.

I'd just have to add... or any other type of alcoholic drink you might fancy to brew or mix. There always seems to be someone in the know on the forums, but distilling is still very much an underground topic here. I think when I brought it up people asked if I was looking for a visit from the ATF (or whatever it's called now... I'm too lazy at the moment to look it up.) I suppose offering them a drink to loosen them up is out of the question. ;D

Wrathwilde
 
I don't really concern myself with trying to make something like absinthe as long there is a pretty good supply of great tasting product available. When I go to Europe I usually pick up a couple of bottles of something while in Amsterdam or Frankfurt, along with a box of Habanas and some dark bitter chocolate.

I have tried Pernod, Vert-Suisse 65, Emile 68, and La Fee. I would put the Vert-Suisse first, followed by La Fee, Emile and Pernod respectively. Pernod is the easiest to find while in Europe from my experience and is quite drinkable.

Cheers,

Oskaar
 
Hello Hiram,

Good information. I have considered making an Absinthe flavored Mead, using hops for the slight bitterness rather than the wormwood, but it occurred to me that the very strong flavors might overwhelm the honey. In that case, why not just go buy a bottle of Pernod instead. I may try to make a Metheglin using touches of the Absinthe ingredients to get a faint echo of the taste, but we will see. Also, the hops will not add the slightly herbal characteristic of the wormwood you mentioned, so that will be a difference.

Angus
 
Mu said:
...you can own a still in Australia with a 5L or less capacity, for distilling water and essential oils, if your in New Zealand your lucky, because you can distill alcohol legally
I'm too painfully aware of that! The laws in the US are so backward and prudish, and New Zealand looms large in many a would-be distiller's imaginings. I've considered moving there but I'm frightened of sheep.
Oh one question however, there are lots of varieties of wormwood, are they all safe to use?
Very good question, as there are any number of plants willy-nilly labeled this-or-that sort of "wormwood" at the nurseries and herb stores. I've actually seen mugwort sold as wormwood at an herbal apothecary simply because the person behind the counter thought they were the same thing. Many would be "safe" to use I suppose, but only two would be appropriate and would result in a product rightfully called absinthe.

Paying careful attention to specific species, varieties and even cultivars is vital in absinthe-making—for a number of the ingredients, not just the wormwoods. The only two species of wormwood of concern are Artemisia absinthium (Grand Wormwood) and Artemisia pontica (Petite, or Roman Wormwood). Absinthium is of course the definitive ingredient and is the subject of the discussion above. No absinthium, no absinthe. It is crazy bitter and grows like the weed that it is. It is used only in the pre-distillation maceration.

There are a few cultivars available in the US, most commonly "Lambrook Silver" and less so, "Huntington." "Powis Castle" is very common in nurseries, and is not absinthium, but a hybrid cross between absinthium and arborescens. It's useless for any but ornamental purposes.

Artemisia pontica is not bitter and is used in the post-distillation coloring responsible for the famous green. It is also used in the primary maceration in clear or "blanche" absinthes.
I have considered making an Absinthe flavored Mead, using hops for the slight bitterness rather than the wormwood, but it occurred to me that the very strong flavors might overwhelm the honey.
You might try macerating a little of wormwood in a small amount of finished mead to make a concentrate and then add that in tiny increments until you achieve the desired effect. However, in my opinion, the flavor of un-distilled absinthium isn't very appealing, and I can see why hops became the preferred bittering agent. It tastes a lot like super bitter pencil shavings.

On the other hand, I once had an absinthe that was made from a distilled mead base rather than the more customary grape spirit base. It was pretty nice!

Vicky (and everybody), thanks for the warm welcome and the incredible website. It's HUGE! I really appreciate the amount of work that has gone into it and only hope that the Wormwood Society site can grow to be this extensive.
 
You're welcome, Hiram. Glad you like the Place. I'm not even getting warmed up yet, next is Podcasts, I'll be sending out a newsletter from GM, and the store is coming online later this month with a brew shop, an herb shop, a wine rack store, glassware, handmade wooden mugs, honey suppliers and some other stuff I'm still working on. At some point I hope to be able to let meaderies sell through there too, but I've some more modifications to pay for before that can happen. Gotta wait a bit before I cough up the additional $750 for that (outta money).

Meanwhile, I've lots of links to add, more Mead Lovers' Digests to input, *tons* of recipes to put in, lists of all the meaderies, all the honey suppliers (that I have), the brewshops, more articles and a whole lot of old American Mead Association journals to transcribe, get permission for and post. Oh, and I'm going to put up the old MeadHQ data. Gotta finish cleaning up the HTML for that.

::whew:: I'm getting tired just typing this!

Vicky - working on a customer site today
 
Hiram,
Welcome aboard! And thanks for the well-informed look at Absinthe. It piqued my interest. I will be sure and check out your website.


Angus said:
Also, the hops will not add the slightly herbal characteristic of the wormwood you mentioned, so that will be a difference.

That sounds like a job for Hallertau! I find Hallertauer hops to have a nice mellow minty/herbal flavor and aroma. Sounds like it might fit the bill.

Cheers,
Kirk
 
This is the first time I ventured into this area of the forum and the first word to catch my intrest was Absinthe.

I've been indulging in this wonderful drink for close to two years, but there was about 2 years previous of research before I took the plunge and bought my first couple of bottles from LdF. I spent a lot of time lurking, searching, and asking the errant question on the La Fee Verte Absinthe forum reading advice from the pros and wading through the jibberish of morons who wanted to trip out. But the replies from the pros was worth it.

Whenver I mention to people that I was either waiting for or got an order or having a drink, they always ask about the tripping out thing. Then I find myself explaining why it was banned or why people believed that it altered your mind. Oh well, I guess it comes with the territory.

And I think I recognize Hiram from the LFV forum...

Right now I am enjoying my 3rd glass of Nuevelle-Orleans. And so far I have indulged in Un Emille 68, Fougerolles 72 and Blanche, and Montmartre. I find something I like then order a bottle or two with something new. I'm looking forward to picking up some Jade on my next order in a couple of weeks. And I will say that this is an expensive hobby when you order 3-4 bottles every 2 months.