After listening to the making modern mead series I was wondering if I complete fermentation and rouse for 1 month in the same open container fermenter or if at some point I should transfer to a carboy with an airlock. My understanding was 1) complete fermentation 2)rouse for a month in same open top container 3) cold crash and start stabilizing at the same time. 4) after everything settles out rack into carboy under airlock.
After fermentation rouse under airlock?
- Thread starter wartmanrt
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Welcome! To add to what Squatchy said, I think you want to have it sealed up better closer to completed fermentation. The protective CO2 blanket starts to dissipate as the fermentation nears the end.
You can move it under airlock around SG 1.020 as Squatchy says, but move the entire biomass (lees and all). I've also let fermentation go until the end in a covered bucket (with lid, but not a tight seal), then racked it to under an airlock off the rough lees without issues. At that point, it depends on what you're trying to accomplish with the batch. You can certainly let it sit for a bit and rouse as needed, then move to your next steps.
I hope that helps.
You can move it under airlock around SG 1.020 as Squatchy says, but move the entire biomass (lees and all). I've also let fermentation go until the end in a covered bucket (with lid, but not a tight seal), then racked it to under an airlock off the rough lees without issues. At that point, it depends on what you're trying to accomplish with the batch. You can certainly let it sit for a bit and rouse as needed, then move to your next steps.
I hope that helps.
It is OK to ferment in large containers with lots of space, or open tops. I do it routinely. It prevents MEAs.
My approach is to let the fermentation finish in the large container, and then rack it leaving the lees behind.
Although meads are not easily oxidized, I would not leave it in a container with lots of air once the yeast get done.
My approach is to let the fermentation finish in the large container, and then rack it leaving the lees behind.
Although meads are not easily oxidized, I would not leave it in a container with lots of air once the yeast get done.
My understanding is that in the most general sense, yeast need O2 in the first 3 days. This can be done with vigorous stirring while exposing the must to the air, or the best way is with an O2 stone.
What I do is add O2 at pitch, and then every 12 hours for the 1st 3 days.
Stirring and aerating are a bit different. If you're past the point where the yeast no longer use O2, but still need to feed them, then you stir in the nutrients, not aerate vigorously. The same thing for rousing the lees - just enough to get them up in suspension. Actually, for my 1 gallon carboys, I leave the airlock on and just sort of spin/swish it around a bit to get the lees up in suspension.
What I do is add O2 at pitch, and then every 12 hours for the 1st 3 days.
Stirring and aerating are a bit different. If you're past the point where the yeast no longer use O2, but still need to feed them, then you stir in the nutrients, not aerate vigorously. The same thing for rousing the lees - just enough to get them up in suspension. Actually, for my 1 gallon carboys, I leave the airlock on and just sort of spin/swish it around a bit to get the lees up in suspension.
Wine yeast really only need 1 good saturation with air to get enough oxygen after they’ve started, and it’s best given within the first 48 hours. More oxygen exposure than that adds nothing, but it doesn’t seem to do much harm either. You definitely do not need oxygen exposure after the 1/3 fermentation point.
