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Lumberjack "American" Barley Wine -suggestions welcome

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U

ucflumberjack

NewBee
Registered Member
Sep 4, 2006
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Hello. I was making a beer and thought it hadnt gotten a good start so i ordered yeast, then i checked the rgavity and came to the conclusion that it was time to rack becasue it was almost done, leaky bucket..... Now i have extra yeast. European Ale yeast, two small smack packs. It says that it finished very malty. Now i have to use it somehow. I have wanted to make a barleywine for a while now. I am only calling it "American" becuse Im using domestic grains and domestic hops. I might have to change the name though becasue of the yeast...... This one will be put into the korny to age a while, maybe 9 months if it gets started soon. Well here goes nothing:


volume: 5gal.
O.S.: 1.102
IBU's: 60 (hops are 7.0 alpha)
alcohol: 10%

mini-mash:
6# domestic pale ale

steep:
1# victory
8oz 60 crystal
8oz 120 crystal

boil:
6.6# liquid gold extract
1.5oz cascade 90mins
1oz cascade 20mins
1oz cascade 10 mins


primary:
2packs european ale yeast (wyeast propogators)
3# WF honey

secondary:
.5oz cascade
10g wine yeast(probably k1v) if necessary
 
If you are looking to make your barleywine a bit more patriotic, I'd suggest a mild dose (one, maybe two ounces) of American oak cubes in the secondary. :usa2:
 
Hey UCF,

I've used WL's European ale yeast before; it was fine but personally I'm going to stick with the English strains. (not that that's an option for you....) The finish is malty but I wouldn't put it as "very" malty. More malty than an American strain, definitely.

Haven't made a BW before, but they sure are tasty. I might take the lb of victory and split it into 1/2 victory and 1/2 something else, maybe a pale chocolate malt or chocolate wheat? Something to bring in some roasty to go with the toasty & caramel from the victory and other crystals. Up to you of course.

Also, that honey is going to be lost in the flavor profile. It would be cheaper to just use plain sugar if you want to dry the beer out a bit.

For the hops, cascade is fine for bittering but I would use an earthier hop for finishing/dry hopping. Cascade would be better if you weren't using as much 120 and victory. I'd suggest Fuggle or Willamette, Goldings, or Saaz. To me the cascade goes better with a less assertive flavor profile (like a pale ale). Citrusy hops clash with too much toasty, IMO.

Build up a big starter and you won't need the wine yeast. I ran your numbers through Mr Malty and it says you should use both packs and make a 3 L starter.

For the name, how about "Across the Pond"?
 
hmmm... i think your right about the hop choice.... this is getting away from what i wanted it to be originally, but i dont think that a pale barleywine would be very good. maybe it would be more of a triple IPA? I think ill leave the grains alone and change the hops to willamette. that choice is basically based on availability at the LHBS. they have more in pellet form but i like whole better.



i dont know how i feel about using sugar in a beer. i think maybe some belgian candi syrup? i have a bottle left over from a while back. if i switched them out it would only change my gravity downward a little bit..... it would also add more carmel and some color i suppose.... hmmm... ill have to sleep on it.
 
I've had pale barleywines, they are very good. Not a triple IPA at all, more like an Americanized golden strong ale. (which I also just had, 'twas excellent) It's up to you what you want to make; the style is pretty open-ended. I just figured you were going darker since you're adding all the darker crystals. You can keep the cascades in for the 90 min addition if you want to keep the poundage down.

Sugar in beer is fine, within limits of course. Candi sugar is just expensive C&H. If you've got it, use it. With a couple pounds of crystal malts in there you won't notice the sugar flavor, just the dryness.

Check out the Brewing Network's podcasts of Barleywine & Belgian Golden strong. The golden ale is something like 7 lbs pale malt, 3 lbs sugar. Dry and crisp!
 
hmmm... youve given me much to think about..... ill have to do just that..... im gonna go through a few books ive got and see what some recipes look like for inspiration.
 
Hmm.... This is going in a different direction but how bout this:

mini-mash:
5# american 2row
1# victory

steep:
2# 40l crystal

boil:
6.6# Breiss Gold Extract - 90mins
1.5oz cascade - 90mins
1oz cascade - 20mins
1oz cascade - 10mins

primary:
2# sugar (will be added until O.G.=1.102)
.5gal. european ale yeast starter

secondary:
.5oz cascade

should end up at 5gal yield, 10%, 60IBU, 16-17SRM

I dont want it to be bitter, i want it to be more malty/sweet than bitter, but i want reasonably strong hop flavor. should i up the dry hopping to account for the fading flavor over the long aging time?
 
Upon listening to the Jamil show..... alot..... and reading..... I have decided to change the recipe quiet a bit...... They seemed to be very concerned with having a strong malt backbone, with enough hops to balance the monster out. They even said that you have to overdo it to make up for fading hop bitterness and flavor. I didnt realize that hop bitterness faded over time, I thought it was just the flavor, glad I listtened. The general concensus on another forum was that I needed to up the IBU's to meet the minimum for one of these. My biggest problem is going to be that I cant age the beer at the suggested temp. because I dont have money or room for a freezer.

ABV: 11.3%
O.G.:1.108
F.G.: 1.013 (the show said that it would be more like 1.03)
color: 20.4SRM
Bitterness: 86.2IBU

mini-mash:
5# american pale ale
1# victory

steep:
8oz 60l crystal
8oz breiss special roast
8oz special b

boil:
6.6# Breiss Gold Extract - 90mins
2oz chinook (10.7)- 60mins
1oz cascade(7) - 20mins
1oz cascade - 10mins
1oz cascade - 2mins

primary:
3# table sugar (will be added until O.G.=1.102-1.112)
.5gal. european ale yeast starter

secondary:
1oz cascade
 
Hop bitterness definitely fades over time, it's even quite obvious after only a few months. The RIS I made a couple of times was supposed to have 120ish IBUs (neglecting the fact that there's only so much you can extract). After 6 months, you could barely tell there were hops in there. :o Underattenuation was part of my problem though.

I would strongly consider increasing the size of your starter to 3 L. Either way, aerate the hell out of the wort when you pitch and make sure to pitch cool (low-mid 60s) or you could get some horrible esters/phenols/fusels. I would suggest fermenting open for a day or two and aerating during that time maybe once or twice a day.

Recipe sounds good. I've never used that much special B or special roast before, it should be quite bold!
 
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