Oops... Maris Otter instead of 2-Row Pale in Dale's Pale Ale Clone

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ZachR

NewBee
Registered Member
Oct 24, 2009
156
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North Carolina
I was planning my 2nd all grain batch Dale's Pale Ale clone and found this recipe online (the first one was 2 years ago, so this is pretty much starting over). This is the recipe for a 5gal batch with my substitutions:

Dale's Pale Ale Clone

9lb Pale Malt (2 Row) - subbed Maris Otter
1.5lb Crystal 30L - subbed 40L
1.5lb Munich
.75lb Crystal 20L

1oz Northern Brewer 8.5% @ 60min - (mine are 8.9%AA)
1.75oz Cacade 5.5% @ 25min - (no AA% on these for some reason)
1oz Columbus 14.00% @ 10min
1oz Centennial 10% @ 0min (mine are 8.7%AA)

US-05 - subbed Wyeast London Ale Yeast starter

Est OG: 1.069
Est FG: 1.018
Est IBUs: 63.6 (using the AA% from the recipe, not actual)
Est Color: 11.0 SRM

A friend of mine (a newbie extract brewer) asked me why I was using Pale and insisted that I use Maris Otter instead because it would be better. I wasn't sure, so I asked the guy at the LHBS about subbing the MO, and he also said it was a good idea and would make the recipe better. Also, he had no 30L so he subbed with 40L. He milled all the grain together; I can't separate it now.

Today I showed another friend of mine, a professional brewer at the local brewpub, my recipe and told him about the substitutions. He told me my subs would make a pretty big impact and it would be much darker and maltier than I anticipated.

These are his suggestions: The recipe will be too malty with the MO and specialty malts, so I should bump up the bittering hops by splitting up the 1oz of Columbus and using half of it to bitter. With the local water, I probably won't get anywhere close to an SG of 1.069 (he uses local water every day at the brewery a block away). I should take a sample after my mash, cool it quickly, determine the SG, and calculate my hop addition then. Maris Otter is not fully converted, so I should ideally do a step infusion and bring up the temp instead of doing a single-step infusion with batch sparge.

I was originally going to use a dry packet of US-05 in this, but as I was writing this message, my friend dropped by with about a quart of some fresh from the lab Wyeast London Ale Yeast to use in this recipe.

He said if I don't hit the target SG, I could just add some honey to bring it up... As a mazer, I liked this idea anyways and was naturally thinking about a very late stage honey addition. My thinking is that not only would it bump up the SG, but maybe "thin" out the extra body from the MO a little since honey will fully attenuate.

Any other takes or suggestions on this? I definitely trust his opinion since he is a professional brewer and experienced homebrewer, but I wanted to get some opinions from my other trusted friends on GM ;D Maybe I could really bump up the hops, dry hop in the secondary, and make an awesome IPA?

I know I should have just gone with the original recipe and used the Pale, but I fell victim to being indecisive and changing my minded at the last minute. I know I'm not the only brewer/mazer who has made last minute subs that drastically change the original recipe... I wanted to try something ambitious, but doable, and I feel like I already set myself up for failure :rolleyes:
 
Don't worry, it will still be beer!

I agree the changes will make significant impacts on the beer. Not sure why you don't think you'll reach a certain gravity due to your water. Low calcium? High pH? In any case you can change your water pretty easily if there is some deficiency there that is somehow limiting you.

Personally I'd stick with the single infusion mash and the slight tweak to the hop schedule, you'll get more of an English-style pale. A little sugar (or honey) will bring down the maltiness and overall FG if you want to thin it out a little, but IMO why dilute the Marris Otter?

Target gravity will all-grain can also be dealt with by adjusting the boil time. If your gravity coming out of the mash is too low, just boil it a little longer before adding hops. Too high, add some water. Easy! Well, easy on the homebrew scale at least.
 
Your biggest change was the yeast switch. An English ale yeast will give you bountiful esters compared to SO-5. The maris Otter, a slight bit more malty and a hint darker. The crystal malt switch will change the colr more, doubt too much flavor difference. I much prefer Maris Otter to an American 2-row, floor malted is better yet.
But as said earlier, you still made a fine ale, not an APA anymore, but an ESB (British Pale).