Interesting article, thanks for posting it!
Tartaric acid is important in winemaking, but it's not the whole picture, not by any means.
The best book I've read on winetasting is "The Taste of Wine," by Emile Peynaud, in its English translation. Along with his erudite notes on winetasting, he offers a set of conceptual tools in better understanding the *experience* of winetasting, i.e., just the winetaster and his/her glass.
I really like the way he uses architectural metaphors in describing the experience of winetasting. One of them is the way he plays with the meaning of the word "structure." "Balance" is a part of "structure" and in red wine, there is an important balance between tannin, acid (tartaric and malic, also other organic acids such as succinic) and sweetness (residual sugar and alcohol). In white wine, "structure" is the "balance" between acid and sweetness. When all is well, the wine is "supple." And of course, "suppleness" what it means and how it comes across in the tasting experience, varies according to the wine style.
"Structure" is only the foundation. With a good structure, the building is stable and you can enjoy its architectural beauty. Bad structure? The building falls down. I think this is what Peynaud is getting at when he uses "structure" as a metaphor in describing the experience of winetasting. The "balance" of acid, sweetness, and tannin is the "structure" underlying the flavor profile of the wine. "Structure" is important, but there is so much more to enjoying the taste of wine.